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[Special Germany, Austria, and Alsace Feature]( is here and with it comes the yearning for light, bright, and refreshing wines. Three regions that have mastered the spring and summer quaffer are Germany, Austria, and Alsace â the focus of this monthâs newsletter. Riesling, Pinot Blanc, and Gruner Veltliner, the three main varietals from these regions, are tailor made for warm weather drinking. Known for clean and focused fruit, bright acidity, and a tantalizing freshness that carries from the first sip to the last, these wines are our first pick when the mercury begins to rise. More and more weâre finding customers are looking to branch out from the standards of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and when they do we immediately direct them to the wines of Germany, Austria, and Alsace as they never fail to impress. The range and diversity from this trio is absolutely breathtaking. Given this, weâve made it our goal to select an array of wines that highlight this impressive breadth and depth. While the white wines may dominate the conversation, that doesnât mean world-glass reds arenât being crafted here as well. From Austriaâs Zweigelt to Germanyâs Spätburgunder, thereâs plenty here to surprise and charm. With what weâve seen over the past few years, thanks to the hard-work of the wine press and a growing number of wine drinkers looking to expand their horizons, these cool-climate reds have all the makings of the next big thing. Read on and find out why we think these regions belong in every wine loverâs repertoire.
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Highlights this month include...
Vintage Item Name Score Retail Link
Lucien Albrecht Blanc de Blanc Cremant d'Alsace Brut 90 $14.99 [View](
2015 von Winning "Winnings" Riesling Pfalz 90 $14.99 [View](
2015 Hugel "Classic" Riesling Alsace 90 $17.99 [View](
2015 Kuentz-Bas Pinot Noir Alsace 90 $18.99 [View](
2013 Loimer Langen Riesling Kamptal (Biodynamic) (Elsewhere $30+) $19.99 [View](
2016 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Kabinett Riesling Mosel 94 $19.99 [View](
2016 Bründlmayer "Kamptaler Terrassen" Riesling Kamptal 92 $22.99 [View](
2015 Bernhard Ott "Fass 4" Grüner Veltliner Wagram 91 $24.99 [View](
2014 Boxler Crémant d'Alsace Brut Alsace $29.99 [View](
2016 Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Gaisberg Riesling Kamptal 95 $37.99 [View](
2016 A.J. Adam Dhron Hofberg Spätlese Riesling Mosel 94 $44.99 [View](
2014 Franz Keller "Franz Anton" Spätburgunder Baden (1.5L) 92 $64.99 [View](
2016 Schäfer-Fröhlich Felsenberg Grosses Gewächs Riesling Nahe (Dry) 95 $69.99 [View](
2016 Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Lay Auslese Gold Capsule Riesling Mosel 94 $104.99 [View](
[Lucien Albrecht Blanc de Blanc Cremant d'Alsace Brut]( [Lucien Albrecht Blanc de Blanc Cremant d'Alsace Brut]( ($14.99)
90 points James Suckling: "Appealing lemon, apple and freshly baked white bread notes. A very satisfying balance between freshness, creaminess and weight, the finish rather long and not too sweet. Drink through 2020."
90 points Wine Enthusiast: "A restrained nose slowly gives way to the mellow fruit of ripe yellow apple. This is deeply apparent on the balanced palate where slightly creamy mousse fills the senses with that apple scent. This is balanced and has a lovely backdrop of brioche-like autolytic flavors. The finish is fresh, lemony and dry."
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[2015 von Winning "Winnings" Riesling Pfalz]( [2015 von Winning "Winnings" Riesling Pfalz]( ($14.99)
90 points Vinous: "This represents the second installment of a diversely sourced blend, mostly from Forst, assembled by Von Winning importer Terry Theise and his old friend, legendary cellarmaster, and Von Winning team spiritual mentor Hans-Günther Schwarz. As with Theise's collaborative Gutsriesling from Schwarz's long-time haunts at Müller-Catoir, tasting (and drinking!) this Riesling is a delight, but simultaneously saddens me to think that it is among only two in the Von Winning portfolio (at Müller-Catoir, it's the only one) to exhibit anything remotely like its hidden sweetness of more-or-less halbtrocken-level residual sugar, a feature that supports the fruit, catalyzes the wine's finishing complexity, and lends uncanny adaptability at table. On the nose, pure, Normandy-cider-like apple and pear are tinged with cardamom as well as maritime salinity and alkalinity, and that combination then informs a polished, succulent, subtly creamy palate and buoyant, mouthwatering, spice- and mineral-tinged finish."
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[2015 Hugel "Classic" Riesling Alsace]( [2015 Hugel "Classic" Riesling Alsace]( ($17.99)
90 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "Readers shouldn't miss checking out the 2015 Riesling Classic, which delivers a round and creamy, mouth-filling quality due to 20% of botrytis. Sold as Riesling Tradition until vintage 2012, the 2015 Riesling Classic shows a perfectly ripe, elegant and intense nose. Full-bodied, round and creamy on the palate, due to 20+ percent of botrytis, this is an intense, complex and salty Riesling with good grip, tension and freshness. A really gorgeous entry into the family that was sourced 60% in the (Grand Cru) Schoenenbourg."
90 points Vinous: "Pale yellow-green. Nectarine, green apple and medicinal herbs on the nose. Juicy, spicy and energetic in the mouth, showing lovely lift and cut to the flavors of lime, apple and minerals. Finishes perfumed and long. With 7.9 g/l total acidity and only 3.7 g/l residual sugar, this Riesling is resolutely dry. In fact, it strikes me as especially spicy and lemony, almost tart; I'd forget about it for a year or two and then try a bottle to see how it's coming along." (02/2016)
90 points Wine Spectator: "A fresh, harmonious white, with a floral overtone and a crowd-pleasing mix of nectarine, chalky mineral, orange blossom and candied pink grapefruit zest. Drink now through 2020." (10/2015)
K&L Notes: This is the Famille Hugel signature wine. This dry Riesling stands out for its finesse and frankness and is the ideal partner to fish and seafood thanks to its wonderful balance and elegance.
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[2015 Kuentz-Bas Pinot Noir Alsace]( [2015 Kuentz-Bas Pinot Noir Alsace]( ($18.99)
90 points Wine Spectator: "Subtle smoke and dried thyme notes underscore the well-spiced creamed cherry and mulberry fruit in this creamy red. Lightly chewy and minerally on the finish. *Best Buy* (AN)" (02/2018)
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[2013 Loimer Langen Riesling Kamptal (Biodynamic) (Elsewhere $30+)]( [2013 Loimer Langen Riesling Kamptal (Biodynamic) (Elsewhere $30+)]( ($19.99)
Winery Notes: "Riesling grapes from fine, old vineyards around Langenlois and nearby areas such as Zöbing, Gobelsburg, Schiltern and Mollands. Both young and old vines for the wine grow mainly in gneiss soils. The rest are nurtured in gravel and loess soils (Gobelsburg). The grapes were hand-selected in the middle of October. The Riesling then went through a short maceration where it was whole-bunch pressed for 12 hours. After fermentation in steel tanks the wine was racked and then matured for two months in steel tanks on the fine less."
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[2016 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Kabinett Riesling Mosel]( ($19.99)
94 points James Suckling: "Super-cool and super-delicate wine with great depth and wonderful balance. A blast of freshness that makes most white wines seem like yesterday's news. Should be exciting at least until 2030." (06/2017)
90 points Vinous: "The nose is a bit shrouded by yeasty fermentative notes but opens to reveal scents of ripe pear garlanded in honeysuckle and heliotrope. This displays a bit less clarity and refreshment than the corresponding Schlossberg but shows compensatory creamy textural allure and soothing, subtly sweet persistence; pear seed and lime zest offer stimulating counterpoint.(DS)" (01/2018)
90 points Wine Spectator: "A well-knit, firmly structured kabinett, with beautiful harmony between the stone fruit, dandelion and tarragon notes, all linked by intense acidity. Shows complexity and length. Drink now through 2025." (03/2018)
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[2016 Bründlmayer "Kamptaler Terrassen" Riesling Kamptal]( [2016 Bründlmayer "Kamptaler Terrassen" Riesling Kamptal]( ($22.99)
92 points Wine Enthusiast: "Pure notes of Conference pear appear with the first whiff on the nose and then stay throughout the palate. They are joined by bright and zesty lemon freshness on a concentrated yet very streamlined body. A touch of spritz accentuates that bright lemon and green-pear delicacy even more. Very fresh, very invigorating, it's totally delicious." (09/2017)
91 points James Suckling: "Lovely fresh herbs, white pepper and green bean character. Medium-bodied, fresh and very lively, this is a prototypic Kamptal grüner veltliner, with a long delicate herbal-mineral finish. Drink or hold." (10/2017)
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[2015 Bernhard Ott "Fass 4" Grüner Veltliner Wagram]( [2015 Bernhard Ott "Fass 4" Grüner Veltliner Wagram]( ($24.99)
91 points Vinous: "Honeydew, fennel and lily-of-the-valley on the nose are joined by crunchy evocations of cucumber and cress on a bright yet subtly creamy palate that features positively invigorating phenolic cut as well as alluring inner-mouth perfume. Ore-like, stony intrigue lies beneath the surface of a buoyant, consummately refreshing finish. And this harmonious ripeness was ready for picking in mid-September, for a finished alcohol level of only 11.8 percent. Ott continues to purchase some fruit for this bottling from parcels whose organic farming and eventual harvest he oversees, though his goal for the near future is to rely only on vines he owns or rents. (DS)" (02/2017)
90 points Wine & Spirits: "A textbook Grüner, this is clean, clear and green-fruited, with a whiff of white pepper and enough sense of minerality to keep it svelte." (04/2017)
90 points Wine Enthusiast: "The nose just hints at green pear but the palate unfolds with quite some power: there is ripe lemon zest, a phenolic midpalate with textured, peppery citrus notes, the rough but ripe peel of Boc pear and quite a bit of heat on the finish. Lemon lingers long. (AK)" (09/2016)
90 points Wine Spectator: "Balances concentration, vibrant structure and flavors of lemon, almond and stone. Persists, with a lingering aftertaste of citrus and mineral. Drink now through 2020. (BS)" (06/2017)
90 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "The 2015 Grüner Veltliner Fass 4 is sourced from the medium parts of the Hengstberg hill and includes parcels from Engabrunn, Feuersbrunn, Gösing and Fels and is almost completely sold for catering. Very clear and precise in its attractive white-fruit aromas and also pretty deep and gently spicy on the nose, this is a lean but mineral and lovely juicy Veltliner with a precise and elegant, salty and stimulating finish. This is a beauty of finesse and elegance. All the musts were fermented separately and assembled in February. This cuvée was bottled in April. Very precise and elegant, but also sensually juicy and round. (SR)" (06/2016)
Laurie]( | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: April 02, 2018
If you're familiar with the wines of Bernhard Ott, you may already know that he's referred to as a, "Grüner whisperer" for his ability to make other worldly, single vineyard expressions of the grape. His family has been producing out of the Wagram in Austria since 1889. The Fass 4 is considered to be the first of Ott's "serious" Grüner Veltliners. Full of super fresh mineral notes, crunchy plums, sour orange and yellow flowers on the nose, with a slightly fuller, textured palate rife with bright acidity. A touch bigger and richer than the Am Berg, this is a wine to linger over. Try this with Asian cuisines such as Vietnamese or Thai, seafood based dishes and tricky vegetable pairings such as artichokes and asparagus.
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[2014 Boxler Crémant d'Alsace Brut Alsace]( [2014 Boxler Crémant d'Alsace Brut Alsace]( ($29.99)
Boxler's Crémant d'Alsace is stunning. A blend of 30% Pinot Blanc, 50% Pinot Auxerrois, 20% Pinot Noir. Wines are vinified using only gravity, no pumps, to preserve delicacy. The wine spends 24-30 months on lees before being riddled and disgorged by hand. Dosage is a mere 3 g/L meaning this sits well within the "Extra Brut" category and tastes bone dry. Despite being very refreshing and delightfully dry the wine has great texture and power on the palate I believe this is derived from vine age and low yields as well as the extended time on lees. This is seriously good bubbly for the money, check it out. (Ryan Woodhouse - K&L Alsace Wine Buyer)
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[2016 Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Gaisberg Riesling Kamptal]( [2016 Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Gaisberg Riesling Kamptal]( ($37.99)
95 points James Suckling: "Great lemon, white peach and spice aromas are married to a medium body with a hint of creamy richness at the front. Then comes the austere finish with a ton of mineral power. Drink now and for some years to come." (10/2017)
94 points Wine Enthusiast: "The nose of this wine is still subdued. Hints of wet earth and pure lemon notes can barely be discerned. With a few swirls of the glass, tender hints of blood orange zest pervade nose and palate, alongside spiky, bright lemon notes. The body is slender and taut but brims with gorgeous citrus aromas. Lovely now but sure to last. Drink 20182030. (AK)" (03/2018)
92-93 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "The 2016 Ried Gaisberg 1ÃTW is a Kamptal Riesling from the Kammerner Gaisberg and has a dense and concentrated nose with fresh lemon and vegetal aromas of green asparagus intermixed with peppery and crystalline flavors. On the palate, this is a pure, dry, straight, finessed and beautifully salty Riesling that doesn't have any flesh or sugar grams on its bones. It is a highly delicate, pure and elegant Gaisberg with a great grip. It is an enormously stimulating and refreshing Riesling. A great Riesling not just for Riesling freaks. Tasted as a sample in June 2017. At this price you can hardly get any better Riesling than Gobelsburg's Gaisberg or Bründlmayer's regular Heiligenstein. Drink 2017-2036 (SR)" (08/2017)
K&L Notes: From importer Terry Theise: "Gaisberg to me is always a moonlight wine, and this one is cool, gauzy, sheer, ethereal and yet with a clearly visible dialogue (maybe even a dialectic) among minerals and blueberries; surpassingly refined and filigree, a Riesling-loverâs wine, yet for all its high frequencies it is not delicate."
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[2016 A.J. Adam Dhron Hofberg Spätlese Riesling Mosel]( ($44.99)
94 points Vinous: "Picked at the end of October, the fruit for this Auslese weighed in between 92 and 94 Oechsle and was botrytis-free. 'I left the grapes hanging in the uppermost terrace simply to try harvesting an Auslese from Häschen,' explained Adam. Very advanced ripeness is signaled in scents and flavors of peach, mango and muskmelon. The texture is creamy and lusciously juicy. The seductively lingering finish is prominently sweet, but that suits this wines sense of ripeness, and an influx of maritime salinity mouthwateringly cuts and complements that sweetness, while what seem to be site-typical suggestions of crushed stone and ash add intrigue. The sense of clarity and the abundance of mineral nuances are striking -- and rare in an Auslese of such richness and near-overripeness. (DS)" (01/2018)
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[2014 Franz Keller "Franz Anton" Spätburgunder Baden (1.5L)]( [2014 Franz Keller "Franz Anton" Spätburgunder Baden (1.5L)]( ($64.99)
92 points Decanter: "A lovely savoury nose of bay leaf and hayflowers precedes cherry and berry fruit. Pepper mingles with the soft red fruit on a moreish palate. This is appetising, elegant and taut with a mouthwatering finish.Drinking Window 2017 - 2027 (AK)"
St. Clair]( | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: March 27, 2018
The nose of this wine is pure Pinot that seems slightly more new world than old due to its wonderfully ripe fruit; however immediately behind that are bits of earth and spice that gives me more of a sense of place and terroir. On the palate it shows an elegance, balance, and supple nature that make it a pleasure to drink. The flavors are classic Pinot fruit with perhaps a bit of stem and earth. I think of this wine with a roast chicken, something savory but not overwhelming.
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[2016 Schäfer-Fröhlich Felsenberg Grosses Gewächs Riesling Nahe (Dry)]( [2016 Schäfer-Fröhlich Felsenberg Grosses Gewächs Riesling Nahe (Dry)]( ($69.99)
95 points James Suckling: "Another amazing dry riesling from this producer. This wine marries richness and enormous lemony freshness, ending with a starburst of herbal-mineral character. Drink now or hold." (11/2012)
94 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "From the earliest of the grand crus, the Schlossböckelheimer, 2016 Nahe Riesling Felsenberg "GG" opens with a fascinating, fine and complex bouquet with spicy/vegetal, herbal and stony aromas, whereas the fruit is subtle, very clear and precise. On the palate, this is a round and juicy Felsenberg that reveals intense fruit, with ripe but fine acidity and a long, well-structured and powerful finish. This is a warmer type of Riesling, coming from a cru that Tim harvests with respect to the berry skins, which should still have buoyancy since the grapes of the Felsenberg tend to become overripe in a very short time, even within a day. Tasted December 2017. (SR)" (02/2018)
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[2016 Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Lay Auslese Gold Capsule Riesling Mosel]( [2016 Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Lay Auslese Gold Capsule Riesling Mosel]( ($104.99)
94 points Wine Spectator: "Dessert in liquid form, with a lovely silky texture and charming aromas and flavors of jasmine honey, cream, apricot tart and bergamot, combined with mineral elements that impart freshness. Features intense acidity that keeps the sweetness in harmony from start to marathon finish. (AZ)" (02/2018)
93 points Vinous: "Dark cherry mingles with root beer and an infusion of mint in this forwardly fragrant and luscious, envelopingly rich Auslese. Suggestions of honeydew melon liqueur, candied green herbal concentrates and a touch of salted caramel add to the opulent, overripe impression conveyed on a glycerol-rich palate, leading to a concentrated and impressively sustained finish, albeit one that carries a bit more obvious sense of sheer sweetness than is typical at this address. Thankfully, a sense of juicy fresh-fruitedness persists as well. (DS)" (01/2018)
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