A UNESCO Heritage listing falling apart                                                                                                    [Travelfish #408: New long read, A Malaysian Quagmire]( A UNESCO Heritage listing falling apart [Stuart McDonald](
Nov 2 Hi everyone, I saw a tweet the other day from a friend in Saigon (who is in the travel industry), she said âtoday was yesterdayâ. That was it. Three words. To be honest, it resonated. At least in the travel world, it feels like Groundhog Day. Suffice to say, she is over 2020. Me too. Yesterday we published our third long read, this one by a Malaysiaâbased author on the UNESCO Heritage site in Lenggong, Perak State. [You can read the full piece here](. Our long reads are entirely funded by Travelfish supportersâthank you!
A UNESCO Heritage listing falling apart. Photo: Travelfish. --------------------------------------------------------------- Last week on pay to read Couchfish Iâve been all over two Cambodian islands, with a [two part]( [series]( on the beaches of Koh Rong. Then [a crazed boat ride](, a [run in with an equally crazed hotelier]( and [then a lighthouse](. Why do the crazed people always talk to me? On free to read Couchfish, I wrote about Indonesiaâs Java and why it baffles me why more donât visit. This piece resonated with the âinto Indonesia crowdâ and [if Indonesia is your thing, you may enjoy it](.
You never know who youâll meet in Java. Photo: [Sally Arnold](. --------------------------------------------------------------- Over on Thai Island Times, donât miss Davidâs [wrap on Thai island and beach stuff](âand there I was thinking I spent too much time of social media! I should note, this is also Davidâs six month anniversary on running his newsletter and it remains my go to list for what is going on in Thailand (at least beach and island wise!). If youâre not already a subscriber, sign up! It is free! Just as I was about to hit âpublishâ David put out another piece on Ko Lipeâ[you can read it here](. Good travels, Stuart --------------------------------------------------------------- Support Travelfish! If you'd like to chip in (if you havenât already) for using the site, we'd love you to sign up for a year-long subscription for just A$35. [See more here](. --------------------------------------------------------------- Ten places to drop off the map in Thailand It kind of feels a bit ridiculous to write about a collection of places to dodge the hordes in the current climate. That said, some day travel will get going again, so file this one away for when some normalcy returns. Or, if youâre lucky enough to already be in Thailand, get travelling! Bo Kluea
Salt. Valuable stuff. Photo: [Mark Ord](. --------------------------------------------------------------- When I write about White Gold in the context of Bo Kluea, Iâm not on about Bolivian marching powder but rather salt. This scratch of a village wedged in Nan province between Doi Phu Kha National Park and the Lao frontier is famous for the stuff. Writes Austin Bush in [The Food of Northern Thailand](: âMentions of Ban Bo Luang and its wells go back as far as the fifteenth century, when the villageâs salt was offered as a tribute to the Chiang Maiâbased kings of the former Lan Na kingdom. Later, the salt wells made Ban Bo Luang a stopover on the caravan route to traders from Laos and southern Chinaâthose with even less access to the sea than the northern Thai.â Go for the salt, and the relaxed riverside sceneâbut also easy access to both Doi Phu Kha and Khun Nan national parks. You can r[ead more about it on Travelfish here](âand [also on Couchfish](. Chanthaburi [Chanthaburi](: âCity of the Moonâ this intriguing provincial capital in eastern Thailand is so well placed for breaking the trip to Ko Chang or Ko Kut, it seems crazy more donât break their trip here.
Crab at Buu Nim, hit me. Photo: [David Luekens](. --------------------------------------------------------------- In his 1904 Guide to Bangkok and Siam, J Antonio writes of âChantaboonâ: âIt is a pleasant little town, however, although the few Europeans resident there complain of ennui.â He goes on to note the ânativesâ are good at grass mats and jewellery. Luckily for you there is a whole lot more to see and do and Iâd say the chances of you contracting ennui are low. Wander the old quarter, visit a cathedral or a wat, and do make time for a daytrip to the coast [to eat fresh crab at Farm Buu Nim](. Khong Chiam
Nearing the confluence. Khong Chiam. Photo: [David Luekens](. --------------------------------------------------------------- Overlooking the merging of two riversâthe Mekong and the Moonâfar flung [Khong Chiam]( makes for an ideal last (or first) stop in Thailand before (or after) Laos. The main tourism drawcard is the above mentioned river confluence, but Khong Chiam is also convenient for [Pha Taem National Park](. Thereâs also handicrafts and plenty of good eating. It is a popular spot for weekending Thais, but foreigners are strangely few and far between. Ko Phayam
Setting the mood on Ko Phayam. Photo: [David Luekens](. --------------------------------------------------------------- I canât write about Thailand hideaways and not mention islands, but with so many to choose from, it is hard to pick. A back beach on a popular island like [Ko Pha Ngan]( can be pretty ace, while a backwater littleâvisited spot can also deliver. [Ko Phayam](, by the northern tip of Thailandâs Andaman coast fits in to that perfect middle ground. Not too busy, but not dead. A wide range of beaches, but big enough that it isnât just about the beaches. Check it out and perhaps swing by [Ko Chang Noi]( while youâre in the area. Do check the weather thoughâwet season is wet in these parts. Mae Sot
Burma meets Thailand. Photo: [David Luekens](. --------------------------------------------------------------- The entire Thai Burma border encompasses some of the most beautiful stretches of the country. The road stretching from [Umphang]( in the far south to [Mae Hong Son]( (and beyond) in the north, is an absolute cracker. Umphang, Mae Sot, [Mae Sariang](, Khun Yuam, Mae Hong Sonâso many great spotsâand then Sangklaburi further southâso why pick [Mae Sot](? While all have have their own merits, Mae Sot has long been my favourite. Go for the food, the people, the outlying temples, the national parks, and, or course, that fantastic ride south to Umphang. That Phanom
At Wat That Phanom. Photo: Stuart McDonald. --------------------------------------------------------------- For me, Thailandâs northeast has two primary attractionsâthe Khmer period ruins, and the food. My favourite though, is a small spot halfway between a village and a town on the bank of the Mekongâ[That Phanom](. It was once on the traveller hit list thanks to an excellent guesthouse (Niyanaâsâ which, as far as I know has now closed) but it remains a beautiful spot. It is also home to a stunning temple, [Wat That Phanom](, but many come for the small town vibe and long slow bicycle trips along the west bank of one of the most beautiful rivers in the worldâthe Mekong. Nakhon Si Thammarat
This is how you do it. Photo: [David Luekens](. --------------------------------------------------------------- Most travellers head to southern Thailand aiming for beaches and that idealised beach Instagram shot. The mainland though, has plenty of greatness to deliver. [Nakhon Si Thammarat]( is an hour or so south of the many piers that head out to Thailandâs silly islands, but few bother. This is a mistake. After [Hat Yai]( this is the largest city in Thailandâs south and while the bars have a bit of a cowboy feel to them, there is plenty of history on hand in âNakhonâ. Come for the [Suchart Subsinâs House of Shadow Puppetry](, the incredibly spicy dry curries, [Khao Luang National Park]( and [Baan Khiriwong](. You can send me a postcard afterwards to say thank you. If you have more time, consider [Khanom and Sichon]( on the coast. Phayao
Watch out sinners. Photo: Stuart McDonald. --------------------------------------------------------------- Ancient maps marked a mythical ânorthern lake of Siamâ. It was a fabrication of drunken sailors and map makers of the 17th century. That said, [Phayao](, ideally placed between Chiang Mai and Nan, has a great lake. It is huge. Come here so eat saltâcrusted fresh water fish, barbecued on open air grills while you relax by the water on mats with low slung tables crammed with iced beers. The sunsets deliver. Set a day aside to visit [Wat Analayo]( and Wat Sri Khom Khan. Also eat. You will not go hungry here. Prachuap Khiri Khan
Prachuap has some decent viewpoints⊠Photo: Stuart McDonald. --------------------------------------------------------------- Look, the important thing to remember here is [Prachuap Khiri Khan]( is easier to get to than say. Just call it âPrachuapâ and hop on the train. It has a city beach which, to be fair, is not Thailandâs best, but just over the hump to the south is the airforce beach ([Ao Manao]() which is far better, and, importantly, lined with seafood joints to eat and drink at. To the north is an absolutely macaque infested hilltop temple which Iâd only recommend [if you like being mauled by macaques](. Instead go to the nearby national parks, and, well, eat a lot of seafood. Trang
Forget the islands. Photo: [David Luekens](. --------------------------------------------------------------- Oh [Trang](, how many times have I slumbered in thee due to a missed boat connection? Like Krabi to the north and [Satun]( to the south, Trang is an island gateway to a cluster of Thailandâs Andaman Sea islands. But you should linger. Donât rush for the boat. Slow down and smell the coffeeâit is worth lingering for. Mainland beaches, waterfalls, caves ... or just drink more coffee! Good list making! Stuart --------------------------------------------------------------- Premium members only: Book a round the world with [roundtheworldflights.com]( (must travel from the UK via Asia, Australia, New Zealand AND the Americas) and get ÂŁ30pp off your trip. Offer valid for departures to December 2021. Log in to the Member Centre on Travelfish now for your coupon code and [start designing your own round the world trip]( --------------------------------------------------------------- Fourteen things worth reading What I Learned from Backpacking as a 40-Something âAll backpackers learn that a good trip becomes an amazing trip [because of the people, not the landmarks](.â Malaysiaâs Indigenous people question timber sustainability âGlobal Witness has condemned Samling for its â[egregious track record of illegal logging](, primary rainforest destruction and violation of indigenous rightsâ in countries including Malaysia, Cambodia and PNG.â The Mahakan Fort mistake âThe miniature park idea is ironic and questionable. It only demonstrates the poor knowledge of city administrators regarding living history, and [their obsession with material construction divorced from humans and their stories](.â Eating, drinking, and making merit in Phnom Penh [Pack an appetite](. Slowing down in Laos âPlainly there isnât much money in making a travel magazine on a shoestring. But through their travels, the Valentes [came to value slowness as its own sort of luxury](.â Indonesia balances war on illegal fishing with international obligations âTherefore, Indonesia can implement its policy of sinking vessels and disregard the obligation for prompt release.â [Look in the mirror Indonesia](. How Steinbeck's Cannery Row spoke to me â even in small-town Indonesia âThis novel, as I later learned, shared much with his other novels: it invites us to see the world from a humble, and at times very narrow, perspective. From the engine of a dilapidated Ford Model T to the cash register of a grocery store owned by a Chinese immigrant, even to a brothel. The world in this novel was certainly different from the one I lived in, but at the same time, [as a small-town boy I was able to feel a connection to it](.â Bangkokâs motortaxi drivers aid Thai protesters âIn October, when authorities deployed water cannon for the first time since protests kicked off in July, it was the drivers who rushed to provide early warnings and later blockaded some roads [so activists could safely escape riot police](.â Fever dream: inside a Yangon fever clinic at the epicentre of the pandemic âI was shocked. [I hadnât expected so many to be positive](.â The Mekong Delta's creeping disaster âWhile salt water inches further upriver each year, parts of the delta directly on the coast [are being washed away by rising sea levels and waves](.â Cambodia's ninja gardeners tame jungle growth âLeaving the temples unmanicured could bring back the vision French naturalist and explorer Henri Mouhot had encountered [in the 1860s when he chanced upon the site](.â A movement without pronouns and leaders is challenging Thailand all the way to the top âWhen youâre steeped in such a conservative outlook, what the youth are doing seems not just reckless, [but incomprehensible](.â Why this uncle plans to keep running his 114âyearâoldâcafe âIn its heyday, the 12th Canal Market â[was comparable to Venice.](ââ Prosecute crimes against journalists, donât commit them âHarassing, intimidating and threatening Cambodian journalists has become so normalized that some colleagues who faced pressure on October 23 merely shrugged it off as no big deal, [or even part of the job](.â --------------------------------------------------------------- Something to read The food of Northern Thailand [Who wouldnât need a bite and a drink about now](. --------------------------------------------------------------- Photo of the week
Grab a banana before Bromo when on Java. Photo: [Sally Arnold](. --------------------------------------------------------------- Thank you! Thanks from reading the Travelfish newsletter. Please feel free to forward it to all and sundry and your feedback, as always, is much appreciated. Travel light! Stuart & the Travelfish team If you liked this post from [Travelfish weekly newsletter](, why not share it? [Share]( © 2020 Stuart McDonald [Unsubscribe](
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