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Race/Related: What Paris means to Black Americans

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Sat, Dec 10, 2022 12:00 PM

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A professor marvels at the city’s warm reception and reprieve from racial anxiety. | ~/AAAAAQA~

A professor marvels at the city’s warm reception and reprieve from racial anxiety. [View in browser](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP4QpAWh0dHBzOi8vbWVzc2FnaW5nLWN1c3RvbS1uZXdzbGV0dGVycy5ueXRpbWVzLmNvbS90ZW1wbGF0ZS9vYWt2Mj9jYW1wYWlnbl9pZD0zNyZlbWM9ZWRpdF9ycl8yMDIyMTIxMCZpbnN0YW5jZV9pZD03OTg1MiZubD1yYWNlJTJGcmVsYXRlZCZwcm9kdWN0Q29kZT1SUiZyZWdpX2lkPTc3Njc0OTUyJnNlZ21lbnRfaWQ9MTE1NjEyJnRlPTEmdXJpPW55dCUzQSUyRiUyRm5ld3NsZXR0ZXIlMkZiYWY3YjE3Yy01YmY4LTU3OTEtOGQ3YS05MjhhZjA0ZGZjMTYmdXNlcl9pZD1hYTQ5MWVmN2YxZDk2NGU0OTc5ZmI3ODRlNzRlMDFkN1cDbnl0QgpjkPN0lGPVOxJPUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAAAA~)|[nytimes.com](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0SxaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vP2NhbXBhaWduX2lkPTM3JmVtYz1lZGl0X3JyXzIwMjIxMjEwJmluc3RhbmNlX2lkPTc5ODUyJm5sPXJhY2UlMkZyZWxhdGVkJnJlZ2lfaWQ9Nzc2NzQ5NTImc2VnbWVudF9pZD0xMTU2MTImdGU9MSZ1c2VyX2lkPWFhNDkxZWY3ZjFkOTY0ZTQ5NzlmYjc4NGU3NGUwMWQ3VwNueXRCCmOQ83SUY9U7Ek9SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAAA~~)[Continue reading the main story](#a11y-skip-ad-marquee) ~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0RtaHR0cHM6Ly9saXZlaW50ZW50Lm5ld3lvcmt0aW1lc2luZm8uY29tL2NsaWNrP3M9MjA3NTgwJmxpPVJSJm09YWE0OTFlZjdmMWQ5NjRlNDk3OWZiNzg0ZTc0ZTAxZDcmcD1SUl8yMDIyMTIxMFcDbnl0QgpjkPN0lGPVOxJPUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAAAA~ [More Race/Related](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0S_aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vc3BvdGxpZ2h0L3JhY2U_Y2FtcGFpZ25faWQ9MzcmZW1jPWVkaXRfcnJfMjAyMjEyMTAmaW5zdGFuY2VfaWQ9Nzk4NTImbmw9cmFjZSUyRnJlbGF0ZWQmcmVnaV9pZD03NzY3NDk1MiZzZWdtZW50X2lkPTExNTYxMiZ0ZT0xJnVzZXJfaWQ9YWE0OTFlZjdmMWQ5NjRlNDk3OWZiNzg0ZTc0ZTAxZDdXA255dEIKY5DzdJRj1TsST1IbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAA) December 10, 2022 Paris commuters sit in a tram at the railway station named for Rosa Parks.Jacques Demarthon/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images The long history of Black Americans seeking refuge in Paris By Pamela Newkirk I’ve long been intrigued by the scores of Black Americans throughout history who sought refuge in Paris, where they enjoyed a level of success and respect doggedly denied them at home. Josephine Baker, James {NAME}, Richard Wright and Loïs Mailou Jones are among the many exiled African American artists whose inspiring tales of triumph in spite of America’s rigid racial caste system continue to draw Black Americans to the City of Light today. But given France’s history of colonialism, the allegations of discrimination by Muslims and African immigrants in its suburbs, and its role in the past and current [plight of Haiti](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0TuaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vMjAyMi8wNS8yMC93b3JsZC9hbWVyaWNhcy9oYWl0aS1oaXN0b3J5LWNvbG9uaXplZC1mcmFuY2UuaHRtbD9jYW1wYWlnbl9pZD0zNyZlbWM9ZWRpdF9ycl8yMDIyMTIxMCZpbnN0YW5jZV9pZD03OTg1MiZubD1yYWNlJTJGcmVsYXRlZCZyZWdpX2lkPTc3Njc0OTUyJnNlZ21lbnRfaWQ9MTE1NjEyJnRlPTEmdXNlcl9pZD1hYTQ5MWVmN2YxZDk2NGU0OTc5ZmI3ODRlNzRlMDFkN1cDbnl0QgpjkPN0lGPVOxJPUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAAAA~), I could be forgiven for dismissing suggestions that Paris is a racial Mecca for African Americans. Had the quest by Black Americans to flee America’s unrelenting racism caused some to romanticize a country with its own share of bias? However, some two months into a research fellowship in Paris, it was difficult to deny the extent the city has embraced African Americans and our culture. There I was accorded a measure of kindness and respect that I am denied in much of America. Whether it was the cheerful “bonjours” in shops and cafes; the emphatic “pardon Madame” after even the slightest incursion into my personal space on sidewalks; or the lack of discernible discomfort by my presence in fashionable restaurants, shops or neighborhoods, I couldn’t help but acknowledge that in Paris my race, remarkably, appears unremarkable. A picture of Josephine Baker is displayed next to a red carpet leading to the Pantheon monument, rear, in Paris, last year. Baker became the first Black woman to receive France's highest honor by being inducted in the Pantheon.Christophe Ena/Associated Press That is, unless you consider the many public tributes to African Americans in a city where I can board the Metro at a stop named Ella Fitzgerald and disembark at Gare Rosa Parks, a rail station replete with a mosaic that honors the civil rights legend. There’s a park named for the Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., squares for Baker and Louis Armstrong, and a plaque recognizing Wright outside the Latin Quarter apartment building where he once lived. Baker remains one of the most revered women in France. The St. Louis native, who was awarded France’s Croix de Guerre, the country’s military decoration, for her service during World War II and other contributions over her lifetime , became [last year](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0TtaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vMjAyMS8xMS8zMC93b3JsZC9ldXJvcGUvam9zZXBoaW5lLWJha2VyLWJ1cmllZC1wYW50aGVvbi5odG1sP2NhbXBhaWduX2lkPTM3JmVtYz1lZGl0X3JyXzIwMjIxMjEwJmluc3RhbmNlX2lkPTc5ODUyJm5sPXJhY2UlMkZyZWxhdGVkJnJlZ2lfaWQ9Nzc2NzQ5NTImc2VnbWVudF9pZD0xMTU2MTImdGU9MSZ1c2VyX2lkPWFhNDkxZWY3ZjFkOTY0ZTQ5NzlmYjc4NGU3NGUwMWQ3VwNueXRCCmOQ83SUY9U7Ek9SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAAA~~) the first woman of color and only the sixth woman [inducted in the Pantheon,](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0TtaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vMjAyMS8xMS8zMC93b3JsZC9ldXJvcGUvam9zZXBoaW5lLWJha2VyLWJ1cmllZC1wYW50aGVvbi5odG1sP2NhbXBhaWduX2lkPTM3JmVtYz1lZGl0X3JyXzIwMjIxMjEwJmluc3RhbmNlX2lkPTc5ODUyJm5sPXJhY2UlMkZyZWxhdGVkJnJlZ2lfaWQ9Nzc2NzQ5NTImc2VnbWVudF9pZD0xMTU2MTImdGU9MSZ1c2VyX2lkPWFhNDkxZWY3ZjFkOTY0ZTQ5NzlmYjc4NGU3NGUwMWQ3VwNueXRCCmOQ83SUY9U7Ek9SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAAA~~) the country’s mausoleum of revered historical figures. [Continue reading the main story](#a11y-skip-universal-0) ADVERTISEMENT ~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0RtaHR0cHM6Ly9saXZlaW50ZW50Lm5ld3lvcmt0aW1lc2luZm8uY29tL2NsaWNrP3M9MTc0MTQ5JmxpPVJSJm09YWE0OTFlZjdmMWQ5NjRlNDk3OWZiNzg0ZTc0ZTAxZDcmcD1SUl8yMDIyMTIxMFcDbnl0QgpjkPN0lGPVOxJPUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAAAA~ African American culture is ubiquitous throughout the city: The music of Alicia Keys and other Black singers can be heard in shops, and translated books by African American authors are featured in bookstore windows. The stalls along the Seine are a shrine to African American jazz legends whose images grace vintage books, albums, CDs and posters heralding their appearance in Paris decades before. Miles Davis, Charlie Parker, Thelonius Monk, Billie Holiday and Sidney Bechet are among the jazz greats who enjoy cult status. For two months, I reveled in this veneration and the unexpected respite from the racial anxiety that shadows the American experience. But Paris is no panacea, and centuries of evidence demonstrate that despite France’s mantra of “liberté, égalité, fraternité,” it is far from bias-free. Walking along the glistening Seine, I am yanked from a dreamlike state as I pass the majestic Palais de Justice, a historic courthouse, and am reminded of [Haiti’s reparations to France despite a notoriously brutal enslavement](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0TyaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vMjAyMi8wNS8yMC93b3JsZC9hbWVyaWNhcy90YWtlYXdheXMtaGFpdGktcmVwYXJhdGlvbnMtZnJhbmNlLmh0bWw_Y2FtcGFpZ25faWQ9MzcmZW1jPWVkaXRfcnJfMjAyMjEyMTAmaW5zdGFuY2VfaWQ9Nzk4NTImbmw9cmFjZSUyRnJlbGF0ZWQmcmVnaV9pZD03NzY3NDk1MiZzZWdtZW50X2lkPTExNTYxMiZ0ZT0xJnVzZXJfaWQ9YWE0OTFlZjdmMWQ5NjRlNDk3OWZiNzg0ZTc0ZTAxZDdXA255dEIKY5DzdJRj1TsST1IbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAA) and the hypocrisy the building represents. While visiting the Musée d’Orsay, the sculpture “[Les Quatre Parties du monde soutenant la sphère céleste](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0T9aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubXVzZWUtb3JzYXkuZnIvZW4vYXJ0d29ya3MvbGVzLXF1YXRyZS1wYXJ0aWVzLWR1LW1vbmRlLXNvdXRlbmFudC1sYS1zcGhlcmUtY2VsZXN0ZS0xNTE3NT9jYW1wYWlnbl9pZD0zNyZlbWM9ZWRpdF9ycl8yMDIyMTIxMCZpbnN0YW5jZV9pZD03OTg1MiZubD1yYWNlJTJGcmVsYXRlZCZyZWdpX2lkPTc3Njc0OTUyJnNlZ21lbnRfaWQ9MTE1NjEyJnRlPTEmdXNlcl9pZD1hYTQ5MWVmN2YxZDk2NGU0OTc5ZmI3ODRlNzRlMDFkN1cDbnl0QgpjkPN0lGPVOxJPUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAAAA~)” by the 19th century artist Jean-Baptiste Carpeaux transfixes me. Four women symbolize the continents, but the lone Black woman, who looks as familiar as a family member, wears shackles on her ankle. For the rest of that day, I pondered the fate of the nameless model, and how she became a subject for Carpeaux. Even as the city’s extravagant beauty captivates me, I’m reminded of the plunder of places and people that its grandeur reflects. It is precisely the tension between France’s colonial past and the unique status and history of African Americans in Paris that I wished to interrogate. The 369th Infantry Regiment, “The Harlem Hellfighters,” served on the front lines for 191 days during World War I, longer than any other American unit in the war, and was the first unit to cross the Rhine into Germany.via National Archives Some scholars attribute Parisians’ apparent fondness for African Americans to the heroic service of Black troops stationed there during World War I. The members of the all-Black 369th Infantry, the Harlem Hellfighters, were honored with the Croix de Guerre for their valor. The Black servicemen are also credited with introducing the French to jazz, which caused a sensation that still resonates. [Continue reading the main story](#a11y-skip-universal-1) ADVERTISEMENT ~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0RtaHR0cHM6Ly9saXZlaW50ZW50Lm5ld3lvcmt0aW1lc2luZm8uY29tL2NsaWNrP3M9MjA3NTc3JmxpPVJSJm09YWE0OTFlZjdmMWQ5NjRlNDk3OWZiNzg0ZTc0ZTAxZDcmcD1SUl8yMDIyMTIxMFcDbnl0QgpjkPN0lGPVOxJPUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAAAA~ Eugene Bullard, the world’s first Black fighter pilot who was also awarded the Croix de Guerre, ran a series of successful Paris nightclubs in the 1920s and 1930s, most notably Le Grand Duc where Langston Hughes worked as a busboy and where Ada Smith, the performer known as Bricktop, worked as a hostess who would later open her own celebrated nightclub. Following the Nazi occupation of France, Bullard returned to the United States and died penniless and unsung. But even three decades before the war, the Philadelphia native Henry Ossawa Tanner moved to Paris and became an internationally acclaimed Black artist. His painting “The Raising of Lazarus,” won a medal in the 1897 Paris Salon, was purchased by the French government and once hung in the [Musée D’Orsay](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0TeaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubXVzZWUtb3JzYXkuZnIvZW4vYXJ0d29ya3MvbGEtcmVzdXJyZWN0aW9uLWRlLWxhemFyZS05MjQxP2NhbXBhaWduX2lkPTM3JmVtYz1lZGl0X3JyXzIwMjIxMjEwJmluc3RhbmNlX2lkPTc5ODUyJm5sPXJhY2UlMkZyZWxhdGVkJnJlZ2lfaWQ9Nzc2NzQ5NTImc2VnbWVudF9pZD0xMTU2MTImdGU9MSZ1c2VyX2lkPWFhNDkxZWY3ZjFkOTY0ZTQ5NzlmYjc4NGU3NGUwMWQ3VwNueXRCCmOQ83SUY9U7Ek9SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAAA~~). Tanner was made an honorary chevalier, or knighthood, of the Legion of Honor, France’s highest award, for his achievements. For more than a century, many African Americans have marveled, as I do now, at the city’s warm reception and relative reprieve from racial hostility. “I needed Paris,” the photographer Gordon Parks wrote in “Voices in the Mirror: An Autobiography.” “It was a feast, a grand carnival of imagery, and immediately everything there seemed to offer sublimation to those inner desires that had for so long been hampered by racism back in America. For the first time in my life I was relaxing from tension and pressure.” [Continue reading the main story](#a11y-skip-universal-2) ADVERTISEMENT ~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0RtaHR0cHM6Ly9saXZlaW50ZW50Lm5ld3lvcmt0aW1lc2luZm8uY29tL2NsaWNrP3M9NzI4Njk5JmxpPVJSJm09YWE0OTFlZjdmMWQ5NjRlNDk3OWZiNzg0ZTc0ZTAxZDcmcD1SUl8yMDIyMTIxMFcDbnl0QgpjkPN0lGPVOxJPUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAAAA~ I, too, bask in this newfound status even as I’m saddened to acknowledge the extent to which African Americans are unaccustomed to and therefore covet what others might consider common courtesy. I am also reminded of the hazards of acceptance; how before [George Floyd](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0TKaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vYXJ0aWNsZS9nZW9yZ2UtZmxveWQuaHRtbD9jYW1wYWlnbl9pZD0zNyZlbWM9ZWRpdF9ycl8yMDIyMTIxMCZpbnN0YW5jZV9pZD03OTg1MiZubD1yYWNlJTJGcmVsYXRlZCZyZWdpX2lkPTc3Njc0OTUyJnNlZ21lbnRfaWQ9MTE1NjEyJnRlPTEmdXNlcl9pZD1hYTQ5MWVmN2YxZDk2NGU0OTc5ZmI3ODRlNzRlMDFkN1cDbnl0QgpjkPN0lGPVOxJPUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAAAA~) many white Americans seemed inured to the plight of Black people and the many unarmed Black boys and men too often killed in encounters with the police. Now, what am I to make of this sudden role reversal in treatment as an African American in Paris? What is my responsibility to other Black and brown people whose experiences are markedly different from my own? W.E.B. Du Bois and other Black leaders were confronted with a similar conundrum when they gathered in Paris for the Pan-African Congress in 1919 and were advised to limit their criticism of the United States to lynchings and racial oppression so not to offend their host. But history continually shows us that bigotry can only flourish only when good people remain silent and look away. So even those of us who are spared the sting of prejudice in Paris must speak out when it injures others. We cannot become blind to the injustice we’ve long experienced at home. We are tied, said the Rev. Dr. King in his “[Letter From a Birmingham Jail](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0TZaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYWZyaWNhLnVwZW5uLmVkdS9BcnRpY2xlc19HZW4vTGV0dGVyX0Jpcm1pbmdoYW0uaHRtbD9jYW1wYWlnbl9pZD0zNyZlbWM9ZWRpdF9ycl8yMDIyMTIxMCZpbnN0YW5jZV9pZD03OTg1MiZubD1yYWNlJTJGcmVsYXRlZCZyZWdpX2lkPTc3Njc0OTUyJnNlZ21lbnRfaWQ9MTE1NjEyJnRlPTEmdXNlcl9pZD1hYTQ5MWVmN2YxZDk2NGU0OTc5ZmI3ODRlNzRlMDFkN1cDbnl0QgpjkPN0lGPVOxJPUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAAAA~),” “in a single garment of destiny.” Paris is a bewitching seductress. There are times when I swoon over its civility and reverence for the past. There are other times when, in its majestic buildings and resplendent courtyards, I see only the sins of history and the spell is instantly broken. EDITORS’ PICKS We publish many articles that touch on race. Here are several you shouldn’t miss. 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Roosevelt Four Freedoms State Park, across from the United Nations, an exhibition has an undeniable mood of urgency. By Will Heinrich](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0T2aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vMjAyMi8xMi8wOC9hcnRzL2Rlc2lnbi9hcnRpc3RzLWlyYW5pYW4tcHJvdGVzdHMtcm9vc2V2ZWx0LWlzbGFuZC5odG1sP2NhbXBhaWduX2lkPTM3JmVtYz1lZGl0X3JyXzIwMjIxMjEwJmluc3RhbmNlX2lkPTc5ODUyJm5sPXJhY2UlMkZyZWxhdGVkJnJlZ2lfaWQ9Nzc2NzQ5NTImc2VnbWVudF9pZD0xMTU2MTImdGU9MSZ1c2VyX2lkPWFhNDkxZWY3ZjFkOTY0ZTQ5NzlmYjc4NGU3NGUwMWQ3VwNueXRCCmOQ83SUY9U7Ek9SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAAA~~) [[Article Image] Kenny Holston for The New York Times](~/AAAAAQA~/RgRldvnzP0TxaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vMjAyMi8xMi8wNi91cy9wb2xpdGljcy9tYXh3ZWxsLWZyb3N0LWdlbi16LWNvbmdyZXNzLWZsb3JpZGEuaHRtbD9jYW1wYWlnbl9pZD0zNyZlbWM9ZWRpdF9ycl8yMDIyMTIxMCZpbnN0YW5jZV9pZD03OTg1MiZubD1yYWNlJTJGcmVsYXRlZCZyZWdpX2lkPTc3Njc0OTUyJnNlZ21lbnRfaWQ9MTE1NjEyJnRlPTEmdXNlcl9pZD1hYTQ5MWVmN2YxZDk2NGU0OTc5ZmI3ODRlNzRlMDFkN1cDbnl0QgpjkPN0lGPVOxJPUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAAAA~) [Maxwell Frost, First Gen Z Congressman, Gets His Bearings on Capitol Hill In the weeks after his election, the youngest member of the incoming House has learned just how different his lifestyle and perspective is from his older colleagues’. 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