Pearls, pins, and provocateurs, also our top list of emerging designers in London. PEARLS, PINS, AND PROVOCATEURS: A TIMELINE OF PUNK IN FASHION Whether it was challenging social norms through its ideology, music, or fashion, punk railed against consumerist and conformist cultures. Coming to fruition in the latter half of the 1970s, there is one couple who could largely be attributed with the genre’s aesthetic conception: Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren. While McLaren took care of music, managing and promoting bands like New York Dolls and Sex Pistols, Westwood will be forever remembered for her part in the creation of punk style. [READ THE FULL ARTICLE]( Since Westwood’s death in late 2022, the legacy of punk has been as clear as ever. We look at how the movement’s idiosyncratic do-it-yourself ethos tracks from its heyday in the ’70s, via safety pins and shocking graphics, androgyny and shaved eyebrows, from the streets to catwalks. - Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, “[Two Cowboys” T-shirt]( 1975
- [Naomi Campbell falls]( at the Vivienne Westwood show, Fall/Winter 1993
- Gianni Versace, [Safety Pin dress,]( 1994 © KEN TOWNER / EVENING STANDARD / SHUTTERSTOCK, ART STREIBER / WWD / PENSKE MEDIA / GETTY IMAGES - Dior by John Galliano, [Garbage Bag dress]( 2006
- John Galliano, [straight-jacket sleeves]( 2007
- Alexander McQueen, [God Save the Queen dress]( 2008 © KARL PROUSE / CATWALKING / GETTY IMAGES, FAIRCHILD ARCHIVE / PENSKE MEDIA / GETTY IMAGES - A record year of sales for Doc Martens, 2022
- Doja Cat shaves her hair and eyebrows[live on]( 2022
- Demna, [Balenciaga Gift Shop]( 2022
- [Harry Styles by David Hockney]( 2023
- Marc Jacobs, “[Heroes”]( collection, 2023 [READ THE FULL ARTICLE](   TEMPERATURE CHECK 4 EMERGING DESIGNERS ON THE STATE OF LONDON 1. Simone Rocha How did you develop your particular aesthetic? There are recurrent sources of inspiration – family, Ireland, Hong Kong, Art, the natural world, but also always working with a balance of man-made and modern, femininity and strength to create clothing that can be both empowering, beautiful, and practical.   2. Nensi Dojaka How did you develop your particular aesthetic? Initially, I was doing a lingerie course. It was very technical and the focus was solely on details, rather than the bigger silhouette. This really informed the way I work today; hence my aesthetic.   3. Aaron Esh How did you decide to become a fashion designer? I grew up with a mother who was a sculptor. My dad was a musician. I was always interested in doing something creative. I got into an undergraduate course at St. Martin's to do graphic design, and I lasted maybe six months. I realized I couldn't go into an office and sit at a computer, and I needed to do something with my hands.   4. Rejina Pyo What advantages does being a designer in London offer? London is a wonderful city to be a fashion designer. There is so much inspiration here, from museums and galleries to architecture; the food to the arts. I often feel inspired by the women I see around London, just going about their days, on the street. The city provides a substantial reservoir of creative networks and mentorship groups too; there is always something new to learn from your fellow Londoners, and I find people have been very generous with their time and expertise. [READ MORE](   FROM OUR BRAND PARTNERS [NAPAPIJRI’S ARCHIVAL PAST UNLOCKS ITS FUTURE]( [EXPRESS YOURSELF BABY, ESPRIT BRINGS THE FUNDOM TO BERLIN]( [LATEST STORIES]( [SNEAKER TRENDS]( [STYLE]( [CULTURE]( [BEAUTY]( [SHOP]( Download the
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