The latest edition of the Test Kitchen Dispatch.
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[bon appetit](
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Go the extra mile. I promise itâs worth the ride.
Americans have a complicated relationship with turkey. We love to bash it on Thanksgivingâtoo dry, so flavorless, totally boring!âand yet we couldnât love it more when it comes to sandwiches. The most notable example is the mighty classic, the [Turkey Club](âbasically, a BLT with turkey in the mix, along with an extra (and unnecessary, if you ask me), layer of bread in the middle.
Our own editor-in-chief, Adam Rapoport, is passionate about Turkey Clubs, and indeed, makes a habit of ordering them from room service whenever heâs on the road. But, despite his love for the Club, when it came to developing Bon Appétitâs from-scratch version, he balked at the idea that a person should roast their own turkey âjust to make a sandwich.â I get the reasoning. I mean, when you want a sandwich, you want it, like, right nowâfor lunch. You get the bread, you shmear the mayo, you cook some bacon, you slap on the turkey, and badda bing badda boom, youâre eating a turkey sandwich. Better yet, you drop into your favorite deli and theyâll do all that for you. Oh, those were the days! Adamâs point (when he hollered at me and Chris Morocco about this in 2016) was that you donât get a craving for a sandwich and then blithely accept the fact that the first step will be dry-brining an entire boneless turkey breast for a day, or that youâd then be instructed to slow-roast it to juicy perfection for an hour and a half. And thatâs exactly why our recipe gives you the option of using store-bought turkey if you don't want to make your own.
But you know what, people? Itâs time to go the extra mile, because the ultimate turkey sandwich is worth the ride. First of all, weâre making fewer trips to the outside, which means fewer deli cravings can be immediately indulged. Depending on where you are, it might be easier to get turkey than it is chicken (you could also mail-order from a source such as [DâArtagnan](). Second of all, and more importantly, franklyâthese are tough times, and itâs on us to manufacture as many bright spots as possible. I donât have that much to look forward to aside from my 5 p.m. cocktail, which I only allow myself on the âweekendsâ (of course, the weekend starts on Thursday and usually includes Mondays). If all these crazy people (self included) are out there spending two or three weeks growing sourdough starters for a single loaf of mediocre bread at some future date, why shouldnât we be planning ahead for epic sandwich consumption? I made my first sourdough loaf and it was fine. I brined a whole turkey for 72 hours last week, and then I spent 2 hours grilling it, and it was absolutely freaking delicious and I felt like a genius for doing it. First I set up a legendary sandwich bar for my family, with all kinds of toppings to choose from, including kimchi, cheddar cheese, avocado, shredded cabbage (Iâm out of lettuce), hot sauce, and Dijon mustard. I used leftover turkey to make [chilaquiles](, and thereâs turkey and hominy soup in my future. Itâs the poultry-perfect gift that keeps on giving.
Iâm all about cooking being straightforward and accessible, but there are times when doing things the long way is also the best way. There are lots of [cooking projects]( you could choose to undertake in your kitchen if youâre staying home, and my vote is for turkey. I hope youâll join the club. The Turkey Club, that is.
Ready to cook your own turkey breast? [Right this way](.
Best of "cluck,"
Carla Lalli Music
Food editor at large
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