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[bon appetit](
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Signs and symbols
This week my partner shook a cocktail so vigorously the lid of the shaker froze onto the base and we couldnât get it off. It felt like a metaphor for the week. Nothing will be easy for you! The stuck-on shaker cackled. We smacked it against the sink âtil it opened. The next day, our car was packed and we drove 14 hours to Michigan to self-quarantine for two weeks before we stay with family enduring an entirely different health catastrophe: relentless cancer. (The oncologist approved this plan.) Itâs snowy here, and the only vegetable in the fridge is a head of cabbage. I brought pasta, tomato paste, shallots, and heavy cream so we can make our favorite comfort food, Jon & Vinnyâs vodka sauce, on repeat.
Get the recipe: [Fusilli alla Vodka with Basil and Parmesan](
Wide eyes
What kept me awake that entire drive? Two rounds of dalgona coffee, pre-frothed. Weeeeeee!!!
Read more: [I Gave In And Tried the Frothy Coffee Thing](
The closest weâll get to going back to the office
Thanks to the redditor who made this [Test Kitchen virtual background]( for Zoom! Complete with Sohla El-Waylly at Station 2 in case you need culinary support.
6 things
I observed in the Test Kitchenâs [pantry pasta video](.
- Andy: casually has a Meyer lemon
- Brad: has a [Le Creuset in petit fruits](, my favorite pattern too
- Claire: what are those rustic red pepper flakes? ([Theyâre Tutto, of course](.)
- Sohla: has the best induction burner out there, [the Breville Control Freak](, because her electric stove doesnât get hot enough to sear.
- Chris: âs kids have enough combined teeth to be extras on Tiger King
- Amiel: has a Dutch oven salvaged from the trenches of World War I
Not [all substitutions](
Google doesnât have all the answers. When it comes to food substitutions, I go to [The Food Substitutions Bible](, [an encyclopedia of exactly what it sounds like](. But in the way the dictionary leads you from one word to four, a recent journey led me to substituting mayo in place of buttermilk in banana bread. It was only â
of a cup, no big deal, right? And Chris Moroccoâs beloved [mayo chocolate cake]( uses it! Well, my banana bread came out bouncy and sticky, like those rubber hands you fling against the wall until they get so covered with carpet fuzz you lose interest. Better luck next time.
So much for the pouches
Earlier this year I wrote about [the rise in snack foods that seemed marketed at survivalists](, who turn out to be desk-glued, overworked office mice. Pouches of energy-boosting chia, dehydrated cheese cubes for grounded astronauts, and an ever-loosening definition of jerky. Looking back at the story now, my timing was...prescient. But now that weâre living it, this plotline torn from a sci-fi novel Iâd pass up on the library shelf, no one is thrilled to share their meal of room temp oatmeal in a pouch. People seem to be cooking real food (frozen pizza counts). So thatâs a relief.
Easter happened
âHappy Easter,â I said, sliding three cups of [Royal instant pistachio pudding](ânuclear mint green, specked with almonds doing their best impersonation of pricey pistachiosâto my family. It tasted like melted spumoni ice cream and by that I mean: it was delicious. This is pudding propaganda and nothing more.
[For some sad reason we only have 11 pudding recipes???](
Unnecessary TikTok of the week
Other than this masterpiece that features [Hooters hoverboard curbside pickup](, I came across MANY Bon Appétit TikToks this week and itâs hard to pick my favorite. Itâs a tossup between [this one]( and [this one](.
Unnecessary meme of the week
Unnecessary food feud of the week
âI have a question,â Emily Schultz posed to our staff Slack room. âIâve been seeing so many people roast a chicken upside downâ¦but like who said the breast up way is right?! Whatâs the difference?â It seemed like a fitting method for upside-down times. âGuys, I have done it upside down many times,â replied Julia Kramer. âAnd a turkey, too.â âOn purpose??â asked Molly Baz. âIt really depends on how the heat in your oven circulates,â said Julia, who likes this method because she doesnât care about the breast. âReally youâre prioritizing the thighs,â she said. Molly was convinced: âThe legs are the best part so why not optimize their Crispiness?â âExactly,â said Julia. âAnd then the breast is maybe more steamed,â Molly continued, âwhich isnât the worst, and perfect for chix salad. Wow I am shook to my core.â âI just worry about flabby skin once you turn it back over,â said Carla Lalli Music, who only roasts in one direction (so far), âbut maybe we have to invent a new way to carve a chicken âfrom behindâ and really next-level this whole thing.â âIt doesnât seem like a bad idea,â was Schultzâs conclusion, âand people should stop being so RIGID about how things are done in the kitch. I wish I had a spare chicken to roast.â Same, same, same.
Have an upside-down weekend,
Alex Beggs
Senior staff writer
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