I'm Making Matzo Ball Soup

A weekly dispatch from Bon Appétit's editor in chief.  ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ [View this email in your browser]( | [Manage newsletter preferences](newsletter=bna) [bon appetit](  ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ ‌ It's the first Passover where the soup is in my hands. Passover begins on Wednesday at sundown, and were this any other year, my mom would’ve set her Seder table a week ago. And about three months prior to that she would’ve emailed my brother, sister and me, making sure we had the holiday marked on our calendars. And then she would’ve assigned who’s making what. Dessert is always up for grabs (I highly recommend this [chocolate macaroon cake](), as is the cocktail-hour [chopped chicken liver]( (the secret: lots of caramelized onion and hard-boiled eggs, and a liberal hand with the seasoning.) What none of us ever get asked to bring is the matzo ball soup. That’s Maxine’s turf. I just turned 50-years-old, and I’m a pretty decent cook, and I have never made matzo ball soup in my life; I’ve never had the chance. The key to success, as my mom will tell you—or, as will Molly Baz, who developed [BA’s Best Matzo Ball Soup]( recipe—is to not get too clever. This is not a dish that needs futzing with. It starts with a rich, flavorful broth. Molly likes to kick start the process by roasting six pounds of chicken wings, imbuing the liquid with a deep, amber flavor. Both Maxine and Molly endorse a generous amount of fresh dill, one of those herbs that seems to announce the arrival of spring. Then there are the matzo balls themselves—not too big, not too small, maybe the size of a billiard ball. As I learned while riding shotgun in [Molly’s matzo ball soup video](, how long you boil the balls in well-salted water determines their texture. Too short of boil and they’ll be dense, like undercooked pasta. So take one out as it nears its cooking time and cut into it, just as you would a steak. It’s the only way to know if it needs more time in the pot. Optimally it should hold its shape, but still be tender—almost fluffy—throughout. Of course, this year, I won’t be seeing Maxine for Passover—at least in person. She’ll be in her apartment in New York, staying safe. Around 7 p.m., just as she’s sitting down to her nightly Dewar’s on the rocks, we’ll be sure to FaceTime her (for an 85-year-old, she’s pretty deft with her iPhone.) And I’ll be sure to share with her my matzo ball soup. As I type this letter, I’ve got a pot of fragrant, golden broth burbling away on the stove. I can smell it three rooms over. It might have taken Maxine 50 years, but she taught me well. [Cheers,]( Adam Rapoport Editor in chief What do you think of the BA newsletter? Send us your thoughts at staff.bonappetit@gmail.com. Follow Us [Facebook]( [Twitter]( [Instagram]( [Pinterest]( This e-mail was sent to you by Bon Appétit. To ensure delivery to your inbox (not bulk or junk folders), please add our e-mail address, bonappetit@newsletters.bonappetit.com, to your address book. View our [Privacy Policy]( [Unsubscribe]( | [Manage Newsletter Preferences](newsletter=bna) Copyright © Condé Nast 2020. One World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. All rights reserved.