A weekly dispatch from Bon Appétit's editor in chief.
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Breakfast tacos for everyone.
Every now and then, the stars align in the BA Test Kitchen. Like, when you go to your friends’ fantasy-league football draft and they serve you too much light beer and you show up at work the next morning feeling extra crusty, but there’s social media editor Emily Schultz standing over a stack of flour tortillas, announcing that she’s making breakfast tacos for everyone.
Not that I’m an authority or anything, but the key to quality tacos—no matter the time of day or meal—starts with the tortillas. Schultz was working with ones that she ordered online from [Caramelo](. She quickly charred them over a gas flame with a set of tongs, and then tucked each, as she went, into a folded-over cotton dish towel to keep them warm.
Caramelo's tortillas, made in Lawrence, Kansas, with either duck, pork, or avocado fat, are supremely moist and flavorful. I highly recommend ordering a pack. And if you live in the New York area, check out the equally delicious flour ones by [Vista Hermosa](. Good tortillas make all the difference.
I hopped on [scrambled-egg duty](, cracking a dozen eggs in a mixing bowl and beating them aggressively till the whites and yolks were fully incorporated and a touch frothy. I like my [eggs custardy](, so I set a large nonstick pan over medium-low heat with a healthy amount of butter. I stirred and stirred with a rubber spatula 'til small curds formed and when the eggs began to resemble the consistency of soft polenta, I pulled the pan from the heat. Start to finish? Maybe five minutes.
In my mind, [ripe, buttery avocados]( are a must for any breakfast taco. And if I’m serving avocados, that means I’m dousing them with lime juice and a pinch of Maldon.
Fresh cilantro, if you’ve got it on hand, is always a nice touch. Chopped scallions, too. Hot sauce? Of course. Frank’s, Crystal, Cholula or Valentina. I just don’t need anything smoky or crazy hot first thing in the ayem.
If I was in [Austin, Texas]( last week, I wouldn’t have said no to bacon or potatoes or brisket in my [breakfast taco](. But I was in the BA Test Kitchen with Schultz running the show, and for that, my extra-crusty self was extremely thankful.
[Cheers,](
Adam Rapoport
Editor in chief
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