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Notes from the Test Kitchen
[Dinner Down to a Science]
September 30, 2016
Dinner Down to a Science
In July we launched our new brand, [Cookâs Science], a digital experiment with free recipes and stories related to the world of food science. Our newest cookbook, also named [Cookâs Science], is packed with intriguing test kitchen experiments executed with lab-level precision to figure out whatâs really happening when we cook. Youâll find out how to make 50 different ingredients taste their best. This week, we highlight three recipes where science matters.
[Creamy Cauliflower Soup]
[Creamy Cauliflower Soup]
When Cauliflower Tastes Best: Cooking Time Matters
Cauliflowerâs flavor changes dramatically depending on how long you cook it. Shorter cooking times (10 to 20 minutes) bring out its sulfurous, cabbage-like flavors, while longer cooking times (30 to 40 minutes) turn it nuttier and sweet. Cooking it for too long (50 minutes to 1 hour) drives off all its flavor. To bring the full spectrum of possible flavors into our [Creamy Cauliflower Soup], we cooked some of the cauliflower for 15 minutes and the remainder for 30 minutes. Sautéed onion and leek enhance the rich flavor of the soup.
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[Foolproof Spaghetti Carbonara]
[Foolproof Spaghetti Carbonara]
Starchy Water Makes for Creamy Sauce
Most carbonara pastas are so rich that itâs hard to eat a whole bowlful. Our recipe cuts out cream, butter, and oil, using only a tablespoon of rendered bacon fat. How, then, do you make the sauce creamy while preventing the eggs from curdling and the cheese from melting into lumps? The answer comes from [starchy pasta water]. Reducing by half the amount of water typically used to boil pasta creates a concentrated starchy liquid that, when added to the sauce, coats the proteins and fats in the cheese and prevents them from separating or clumping together. Starch also works with the egg white proteins to thicken the sauce.
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[Best Baked Apples]
[Best Baked Apples]
Different Types of Apples Break Down at Different Rates
Granny Smith apples start out crisp and retain much of their texture while cooking in the oven. While this variety is rather tart, the sweetness of the filling and the sauce in our [Baked Apples] balances out the flavors. If you use other varieties, like McIntosh or Jonagold, they will turn to mush far faster. Removing the skins helps prevent the apples from bursting and collapsing.
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Recommended Equipment for Cook's Science Recipes
[KitchenAid 3-Speed Hand Blender]
Performance: ★★★ Ease of Cleaning: ★★★ User‑Friendliness: ★★★
Cauliflower soup requires a blender or immersion blender to achieve the smoothest puree. This model from KitchenAid sailed through all of our testsâpesto, smoothies, soup, hummus, whipped cream, and mayonnaise. Itâs comfortable and simple to use, with an easily detachable stainless-steel shaft thatâs tough and durable. [Learn More →]
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[RSVP International Endurance Precision Pierced 5 Qt. Colander]
Design: ★★★ Cleanup: ★★★ Performance: ★★★
Our foolproof carbonara recipe calls for draining the pasta in a colander set over a mixing bowl to reserve the starchy cooking water. This colander, our longtime favorite, has a draining performance that remains unmatched. It cleans up nicely in the dishwasher, and its handles are slim but still substantial enough to grip easily. [Learn More →]
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[Messermeister Serrated Swivel Peeler]
To peel Granny Smith apples for baking, use this razor-sharp peeler from Messermeister. The peeler passed all of our tests, proving to be gentle even with the ripest of peaches. [Learn More →]
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[Valley Fig Growers]
Valley Fig Growers
Fall is in the air and California Dried Figs are gearing up for a delicious baking season. Amber Goldens and dark purple Missions make sweet additions to cobblers and crisps, oatmeal cookies, banana bread, fruit tarts and muffins. Want to buy in bulk? Visit the Fig Store at [ValleyFig.com].
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