Travelfish #277: Pai + managing expectations + around

Everywhere is on the way to somewhere Hi everyone, This week we’re all about "around". We’ve got a review of Jasmine Nights by S.P. Somtow and a soapbox on telling the truth. More below the fold. Travelfish premium members are growing like mushrooms in the wet season. [Learn how you can become one now! »]( The week that was Online this week we have lots of more. More Saigon, more Bangkok and more Pai. Please do take a look at some of our favourites of the week—[a day in Pai]( [lesser-known Bangkok temples]( and [a trip to the Mekong Delta](. We’re also back on the PDF train, with a new guide to Pai now available for premium members, and two Bangkok ones coming this week. Premium Travelfish members now have access to more than 200 downloadable guides (227 to be exact) and a special deal with both [roundtheworldflights.com]( and [All Points East](. Not a premium member? It costs a very reasonable A$35 per year (please note: Australian not US dollars!) for access. [Find out more here]( On the road, Mark is just back from Sihanoukville, David is in Bangkok, Cindy and Sally are (still) chained to their desks and Stuart is poised to head back to Indonesia's Flores—will be his fourth attempt to get there this year without something else popping up. This week's soapbox is “around”—as in around the corner, around the block, and, at least in our case, around the bend. Please forward this newsletter on to any friends, family, strangers in bars, bus drivers, som tam ladies or massage men you think might be interested to receive it. Good travels, Stuart, Sam and the Travelfish team Premium members only: Book a round the world with [roundtheworldflights.com]( (must travel from the UK via Asia, Australia, New Zealand AND the Americas) and get £30pp off your trip. Offer valid for departures to December 2018. Log in to the Member Centre on Travelfish now for your coupon code and [start designing your own round the world trip »]( Soapbox On Bali, sambal and all that Last week, ticked off by a silly travel article about Bali that blamed backpackers for the author’s sambal woes, I did a bit of, well, soapboxing, and in passing mentioned some of the development challenges Bali is facing. It's fair to say that if I wanted to find out whether people actually read the newsletter, this was a mighty fine vehicle for doing so! Some absolutely agreed, some absolutely didn't and some were absolutely shocked to hear what I had to say. The thing is, to my mind, the comments I made about Bali were a given—how could you not know about the horrendous traffic and filthy (wet season) beaches? My actual gripe was with the author primarily being upset about their sambal! How did we get here? A few months ago I was interviewed as a part of a story on Canggu in Bali for one of the world's leading travel magazines. In the story I mentioned the upside (between clenched teeth) but also went through the substantial downside(s) of Canggu. How much do you think got into print? Zero. Instead Canggu is portrayed as a magical la la land. Good for ads and all that I guess. Not so much for readers. Destinations—and the newspapers and magazines who still trumpet them on a PR basis—would be wise to take a more level-headed approach to managing the expectations of the readers they still have. Hell, they could even inject some honesty. And I should say, having just had lunch, in Canggu of all places, decent sambal does exist—though the traffic still stinks. Good travels Stuart Featured Three days in Pai Pai lends itself to a few days spread lazily around the middle of your travels. Enjoy a bit of laying around, some coffee drinking, a bit of sightseeing and perhaps a cold drink or two during the evenings. Here is [a sample three-day Pai itinerary to do exactly that](. What we're reading Jasmine Nights by S.P. Somtow A novel not easily defined by genre, S.P. Somtow’s 1994-published Jasmine Nights is at its heart [a rollicking, irreverent coming-of-age tale]( set in upper-class Thai society in the 1960s. It tells the story of English-educated Justin, or Little Frog, mysteriously left by his parents with his extended family in a sprawling compound in Bangkok. Notes from the road BURMA: Around some ruins [BURMA: Around some ruins]( A few temples of interest on the south side of New Bagan town itself can be done in an hour or as a stroll. This route takes you down to the waterside, so it’s [particularly good at the end of the day](. CAMBODIA: Around a bend in the river [CAMBODIA: Around a bend in the river]( Along the prettiest of waterways, 24 kilometres outside Kampong Cham, Wat Maha Leap is the last working wooden pagoda of its kind. Inside, each pillar required a whole tree. Sadly, a large beam fell down in early 2012, partly destroying the central altar and access has been restricted, although [a smile and donation should find the key](. INDONESIA: Around sunset [INDONESIA: Around sunset]( If you find yourself in Dompu with a spare hour of afternoon time up your sleeve, then a trip out to the rice terraces of Krama Bura are well and truly worth the effort—[what else are you going to do in Dompu?]( ISLANDS: Island hopping around [ISLANDS: Island hopping around]( Karimunjawa’s number one activity is spending a leisurely day island hopping around the small archipelago and snorkelling (or alternatively diving) the [spectacular underwater marine park](. LAOS: Waterfalls around the place [LAOS: Waterfalls around the place]( When visiting Luang Prabang, most people think of strolling the quiet streets and laneways of the World Heritage town, visiting a wat or two and sipping a coffee as the world passes by. But activities outside of town are worth a look, including visiting [the two main waterfalls]( surrounding the town. MALAYSIA: Walking around [MALAYSIA: Walking around]( The streets and alleyways of Chinatown on the west bank of the Melaka River are the nerve centre of Melaka and the UNESCO World Heritage-listed city’s [most fascinating area]( for a wander. SINGAPORE: Around dome (geddit) [SINGAPORE: Around dome (geddit)]( An iconic landmark in historic Kampong Glam, golden-domed Sultan Mosque is the centrepiece of Singapore’s Muslim community. If you’ve never been inside a mosque before, [Sultan Mosque is very welcoming]( with friendly guides on hand to greet non-Muslims and answer any questions you may have. THAILAND: Around the corner from a highlight [THAILAND: Around the corner from a highlight]( Despite its many beautiful attributes and convenient location in the historic district, Wat Ratchabophit is usually overlooked by travellers. [Leave the crowds behind,]( at the more popular temples and give this quiet mid-19th century wat a wander. VIETNAM: Around the city on a scooter [VIETNAM: Around the city on a scooter]( Want to know [what the locals are munching on]( on footpaths, street corners and in parks? Ever wonder how the banh xeo in Ho Chi Minh City differs than the one you had in Hoi An? Travelfish partners We work with a number of partners on a commission basis and this helps keep us in business. Please consider using the following links to make any reservations as a commission may end up being paid to us, with no impact on what you pay. Thank you! Flights: [roundtheworldflights.com]( Places to stay: [Agoda]( [Booking]( Tours and activities: [TourRadar]( [GetYourGuide]( Ground transport: [12Go Asia]( Travel insurance: [World Nomads]( News from the region BURMA I: Myanmar tips into new crisis after Rakhine State attacks "The path to a long-term solution is clear, if challenging. It has been set out in considerable detail in the final report of the Kofi Annan-led Advisory Commission, released on 23 August and welcomed by the government. It involves addressing the legitimate grievances of the Rakhine, while ensuring freedom of movement, access to services and livelihoods, political participation and citizenship rights for the Rohingya. The recent attacks have created a far more difficult political context for the government to implement these recommendations, but have also [reinforced the urgency of doing so]( BURMA II: Satellite data indicate burnings in Rakhine State "The Burmese government and army blame Rohingya residents and militants for the burning of some structures, but thus far [have not presented evidence to support their allegations](. " BURMA III: Former loyalists lose faith in Myanmar’s democracy icon "Instead, they say her government is [creating a power vacuum]( that could be filled again by the military." CAMBODIA I: On the Cambodia Daily [Just read it.]( (PDF) CAMBODIA II: Cambodia PM orders English-Language newspaper to pay taxes or close The paper's general manager, Douglas Steele, issued a statement in which he did not refer to the demand for tax but expressed his hope to "fast forward through [the current political theatrics](. INDONESIA: Freeport to Give Indonesia a Majority Stake in Its Grasberg Mine "The deal essentially rewrites an arrangement that began in 1972, when a Freeport predecessor began mining operations there under an agreement with [a military dictatorship that was comfortable with the United States]( SINGAPORE: Chinese dialects revive after decades of restrictions "This linguistic repression, and the consequences for multigenerational families, has led to [a widespread sense of resentment]( now a softening in the government’s policy." SOUTHEAST ASIA: Face scans, robot baggage handlers: Airports of the future "Robots are appearing at some major hubs, including at Seoul's Incheon airport, where they carry out tasks including cleaning and carrying luggage, while Changi's new terminal will have [robotic cleaners complete with butlers' uniforms]( THAILAND I: Will Bangkok's street food ban hold? "However, the vast majority of street food is consumed not by tourists, but locals. [Hundreds of thousands]( perhaps millions of people rely on street food daily – which means that huge numbers also depend on it for their income." THAILAND II: Thailand charges dropped against BBC reporter "Mr Rance was interviewed by the BBC for a story examining [real estate corruption](. The plaintiff dropped charges against him on Thursday, a day after withdrawing them against Mr Head." THAILAND III: Yingluck Shinawatra: former Thai PM fled to Dubai say senior party members "Sources in her Puea Thai party said [she left Thailand last week]( and flew via Singapore to Dubai where her brother, former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra, who lives in self-imposed exile to avoid a 2008 jail sentence for corruption, has a home." VIETNAM I: 'I hope you’re ready to get married': In search of Vietnam's kidnapped brides "Human trafficking has a history in Sapa, where thick jungle, slate-coloured rivers and mountainous terrain have allowed [people to disappear quickly and at random for years]( VIETNAM II: Cable car plan for cave kingdom a stark reminder of Vietnam’s development mania "But those in the opposing camp say that the proposal's much-touted benefits could pale in comparison to [its possible drawbacks]( Travel writing Chinese tour groups suck "Perhaps you’ve read the same articles that I have. Like the one by a traveler who visited Cuba c. Nov 2016 who wanted to get their 'before it’s ruined' by everyone who comes after her." [This is very good](. On food: Things you should know about TripAdvisor and food "According to TA, most of Hanoi’s best culinary experiences are to be had inside the city’s hotels. Of the top 13 restaurant suggestions, [9 are in hotels]( Walking: Longest distance on land "The longest distance you can travel between two points in straight line without crossing any ocean or any major water bodies goes [from Liberia to China]( INDONESIA I: Life among the dead "The corpses are removed from their tombs, groomed and dressed in new outfits. They smell mildewy but the odour is not foul. Some wear sunglasses and jeans, others delicately beaded white satin dresses and bejewelled earrings." [Warning: Lots of pics of corpses](. INDONESIA II: Baby turtles at Sukamade sign of better conservation efforts in Indonesia "Out of a thousand hatched green sea turtle youngsters, maybe just one or two will survive to become fully mature reproducing adults. It is a sobering realisation as dozens of day-old green sea turtles begin the most fraught passage of [what will be a precarious life]( INDONESIA III: Indonesian travelling shows where dolphins perform in the name of education "But for the government, it is not. Travelling dolphin shows are considered an effective conservation tool that educates people about threatened animals through entertainment. As long as their health needs are met, the show can go on." [Disgraceful](. THAILAND: Thai fine-diners explore insect cuisine " 'No Bangkokian eats insects because it has a social status connotation,' said Massimo Reverberi, an Italian entrepreneur of a small start-up called [Bugsolutely]( VIETNAM I: The Twin Passes: Cổ Mã & Cả "And so, in September 2017, two new tunnels are due to open, leaving the Cổ Mã and Cả passes in relative peace, and making them a far more enjoyable and [scenic prospect for road-trippers]( VIETNAM II: Saigon’s first ‘Food Street’ opens "However, [there were many problems]( with this plan from the get-go." Interesting site International Crisis Group Looking for in depth analysis by people who really know what they are on about? [Start here](. Travel shot [A wet season visit to Pai need not mean torrential rain. Photo: Mark Ord] A wet season visit to Pai need not mean torrential rain. Photo: Mark Ord Till next time [Sam and Stuart.] That's it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site's new additions and drop us a line if there's something in particular you'd like us to cover in Southeast Asia. Travel light! Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team [( You're receiving the Travelfish newsletter because you signed up at Travelfish.org. Not interested anymore? [Unsubscribe Instantly](. Make sure you're getting our emails! If you're a Gmail user and would prefer your Travelfish newsletter in your Primary in-box rather than Promotions, just drag this email from the Promotions tab to the Primary tab, and click "yes" when it asks if you want to do that for all of our emails. Better still, [read this newsletter online.]( [Disclosure]( | [Privacy]( | [Unsubscribe]( 9 robinson close, hornsby heights, nsw 2077, AUSTRALIA [Unsubscribe]( | [Change Subscriber Options](