Travelfish #250: Only one letter separates hotel and hovel

Everywhere is on the way to somewhere Hi everyone, Online this week we have new material from Cambodia and Thailand, a review of a Singapore-set book, a great flick from Laos and a soapbox about the region. How's that for a wrap? Travelfish premium members are growing like mushrooms in the wet season. [Learn how you can become one now! »]( The week that was This week we have a complete rewrite of our coverage of [Takeo]( a little-visited province not all that far south of the Cambodian capital, Phnom Penh. It's home to some excellent Khmer ruins, a well-intentioned animal rescue centre and some great riverine scenery. We've also got a fully updated range of suggested [accommodation]( and eating options in Kanchanaburi, which lies to the west of Bangkok, and a complete sights and attractions update is due on our desks any minute. Coming onto the site this week we have Sanur in Bali, the rest of Kanchanaburi in Thailand and fully updated coverage of 4,000 Islands in Southern Laos. For premium members, we have two new guides in the library this week, for above-mentioned Takeo in Cambodia and Denpasar in Bali. Kanchanaburi and Bali's Sanur will be in the library over the next few days. Not a premium member? It costs A$35 per year, gives you access to more than 180 guides (among other things) and [you can find out more here](. The more premium members we have, the more we can keep our coverage up-to-date on the site. This week's soap box is about about hotels; we wonder why oh why are some just so awful? The film we are highlighting, by Olivier Ramberti, is a very pleasing take on Don Dhet in Laos' 4,000 Islands. This week’s theme is “fish”, because we asked our daughter to suggest a theme and that's what she said. Family business and all that. As always, please feel free to forward this email on to your friends, family, strangers in bars, bus drivers and somtam ladies. Good travels, Stuart, Sam and the Travelfish team Soapbox Only one letter separates hotel and hovel There was the guesthouse in Tam Dao, a little out of Hanoi, whose wet bathroom came with a wooden stick to operate the light switch because it was "tricky to use safely". The Singapore hostel with the dorm wall that beaded water day in, day out. The guesthouse in Pakbeng, which hosted rats the size of beagles, and, of course, the joint in Chiang Mai where the windows had been smashed out, and when the rain came in we were handed a roll of cling-wrap to fix it ourselves. How do hovels like these stay in business? Of course, the issue isn't always management. Guests themselves can be a neverending series of slow-motion trainwrecks. My favourite is probably the flophouse in Bangkok where the guest got stuck inside the ceramic water jar (meant for scooping, not actual bathing) and the the owners had to break it to free them. That was a very special morning. But sticking with owners and their properties, how hard is it? Here at Travelfish, we've looked at more than our fair share of properties across Southeast Asia and we are frequently amazed at encountering places so badly designed, or run, or both, that it feels like it belongs on a reality TV show. We imagine you've all come across the occasional, let's be polite, mediocre, hotel. Do let us know and we'll share the best submissions next week. Good travels, Stuart Travelfish partners We work with a number of partners on a commission basis and this helps keep us in business. Please consider using the following links to make any reservations as a commission may end up being paid to us, with no impact on what you pay. Thank you! Places to stay: [Agoda]( [Booking]( Tours and activities: [TourRadar]( [GetYourGuide]( Ground transport: [12Go Asia]( (Thailand), [Camboticket]( (Cambodia), [Baolau]( (Vietnam) Travel insurance: [World Nomads]( Featured Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre [Facebook]( [Twitter]( on Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre. The Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre’s primary function is [to save, rehabilitate and breed endangered, indigenous wildlife]( and it does this in some 6,000 acres of secondary scrub (also under rehabilitation), 40 kilometres south of Phnom Penh. Film of the week Laos Don Dhet def We're big fans of far southern Laos and this short film [does a small area of it justice](. Film by Olivier Ramberti. What we're reading If I Could Tell You Set in and around soon-to-be-demolished Block 204 in Singapore, If I Could Tell You, by Jing-Jing Lee, is a series of vignettes of ordinary people going about their everyday lives in the city state. A sudden tragedy loosely sews the narratives of the building’s various disparate inhabitants together, [creating an overall portrait—and a likely unexpected one—of Singapore today](. Notes from the road BURMA: Powerful fish paste: Ngapi [Powerful fish paste: Ngapi]( [Facebook]( [Twitter]( on Powerful fish paste: Ngapi. The powerful fish paste — ngapi in Burmese or kapi in Thai — may be familiar to those who’ve visited Thailand and Cambodia, but the pickled tea leaves and fermented soya beans for example [aren’t common elsewhere](. CAMBODIA: Fermented fish paste: Prahok [CAMBODIA: Fermented fish paste: Prahok]( [Facebook]( [Twitter]( on Fermented fish paste: Prahok. This king of condiments is made from river fish, which are cleaned and descaled before [traditionally being crushed under foot in a basket](. To make the process slightly less icky, cobbled-together chopping and blending machines keep the maker’s feet fish-free. INDONESIA: Grilled fish [Grilled fish]( [Facebook]( [Twitter]( on Grilled fish. Ikan bakar, or grilled fish, is [an extremely popular and delicious dish]( in Indonesia (and Malaysia), served streetside, beachside and in restaurants. ISLANDS: Fishing village homestay [Fishing village homestay]( [Facebook]( [Twitter]( on Fishing village homestay. There are homestay options in Bai Huong, the fishing village near the southern tip of Cham Island and they can be organised through Homestay Bai Huong, which helps travellers connect with one of nine small family homes with basic Western-standard facilities, set up [to help the fishing villagers with tourist income](. LAOS: Pungent fish paste: Pah deck [Pungent fish paste: Pah deck]( [Facebook]( [Twitter]( on Pungent fish paste: Pah deck. Tomatoes are tossed in too, and another level of flavour is added with shrimp paste and pah deck, the pungent fermented grey fish paste that is [Laos’ favourite condiment](. Be warned that tourists may not enjoy the flavours of these final two ingredients so much, so you can request it without; instead ask for the fish sauce, probably in a glass bottle with the squid on it. MALAYSIA: Unsustainable fisheries [Unsustainable fisheries]( [Facebook]( [Twitter]( on Unsustainable fisheries. While other food is available, it’s the seafood that is the star. You may rightfully be taken aback by the size and some of the varieties of the seafood you see here: [Unsustainable fishing practices are sadly the norm around here](. SINGAPORE: Fish markets [Fish markets]( [Facebook]( [Twitter]( on Fish markets. While the rest of Singapore is asleep, the fast-paced action here makes for a night’s fun. Leave your leather sandals and sneakers in the hostel, and get those flip-flops out. [This is a wet market at its best](. Fishy-smelling water sloshes around your feet, while half-dressed fish merchants tramp around in galoshes, stack baskets of squid and anchovies, and weigh shrimp with traditional scales. THAILAND: Addictive fish: Pla tuu [Addictive fish: Pla tuu]( [Facebook]( [Twitter]( on Addictive fish: Pla tuu. There’s nothing quite like fresh mackerel meat. It’s not as firm as swordfish but not as flaky as tilapia, and the juicy white strips [have an addictive natural saltiness that requires nothing else]( you’ll almost never see the typical Thai seafood sauce of lime, garlic, chilli and fish sauce served with pla tuu. VIETNAM: Fish in a bowl [Fish in a bowl]( [Facebook]( [Twitter]( on Fish in a bowl. Given the bay’s bounty of fresh fish, it’s no surprise that bun ca is a Nha Trang specialty. It’s a simple noodle soup with rice vermicelli, fish broth and fish fillet and/or fish paste meatballs. [Try it on Bach Dang Street or at the central Xom Moi market in the morning](. News from the region BURMA I: Gruesome details on the ethnic cleansing in Myanmar no one is talking about "Myanmar’s security forces killed, gang-raped, and tortured hundreds of Rohingya Muslims in a wave of unprecedented violence, according to a new UN report released Friday. [Victims included children and babies as young as eight months]( BURMA II: How high street clothes were made by children in Myanmar for 13p an hour “We thought that brands were getting the message on child labour but this investigation shows [the risks involved in constantly trying to cut labour costs]( CAMBODIA: Bacteria to improve sanitation on Southeast Asia's largest lake "'People defecate directly into the water,' said Hakley Ke from Wetlands Work, a Phnom Penh-based social enterprise. His organisation works to preserve the lake and improve the lives of about 100,000 residents in floating villages [through innovative technologies]( INDONESIA: An urgent need for environmental education "It is obvious to even the most casual visitor that [Indonesia has serious environmental problems](. Rivers are filthy and clogged. Sometimes the air is unbreathable. City streets are lined with litter. On a global scale, Indonesia is the world’s third largest emitter of carbon." MALAYSIA: How powerful are Malaysia’s sultans? "Although more than 40 countries retain a monarch of some sort, Malaysia’s system [is probably the world’s oddest]( THAILAND I: Australian tourist dies in jet-ski crash with husband [A tragic accident](. THAILAND II: Thailand’s unsung forest gem under threat "Thap Lan National Park, a key part of one of Southeast Asia’s most significant ecosystems, [faces poaching, encroachment and a major highway project]( THAILAND III: Saving the Tamarind "For over a century the 783 tamarind trees have encircled the sacred ground of Sanam Luang. But like old people, after more than 100 years, [many of them are dying]( VIETNAM I: Vietnam's youth push the country toward a new identity "This is the next generation’s Vietnam, where coffee roasters and tech start-ups wedge in between noodle soup vendors and bike repairmen as the city sidesteps its socialist legacy [in a dash toward the future]( VIETNAM II: Operator likely to end tours to caves near Son Doong over fee hike "The raised fees include charges for sightseeing, forest environmental services, and rangers’ surveillance involved in tours to Va and Nuoc Nut grottos, two of the park’s cavernous wonders." [Oxalis is not happy](. Travel writing BURMA: Saving the historic Excelsior tops the bill in Yangon "Many of Yangon's cinemas were destroyed during World War II, but immediately after the war, when the city's straggling suburban railway lines were connected to form the Circular Railway, there was [an extraordinary boom in the construction of new cinemas]( most of them built in the Art Deco style that was popular at the time." CAMBODIA: Millionaire or backpacker, a guide to the best of Cambodia "Once a backpackers’ haven, Cambodia is shaking off its image as a cheap holiday destination to dive into the realms of luxury. Here’s how to enjoy it whatever your budget." [An odd gladbag of options](. INDONESIA: Warung Mas Fairy "Is this the cutest-named warung in Jakarta or what? We think it may well be, and fortunately [the food is good, too](. Specialising in nasi uduk (rice cooked with spices and coconut milk), Warung Mas Fairy offers the usual deep-fried suspects with its rice - chicken, catfish, tempe, and tofu." MALAYSIA: Reader tips Guardian readers with some tips on [what to see and do in Malaysia](. THAILAND: A guide to Thailand’s regional cuisines "Thailand is home to a stunning amount of culinary diversity—[this is how to make sense of it]( VIETNAM: M.I.A. "Half a century ago, an American commando vanished in the jungles of Laos. In 2008, he reappeared in Vietnam, reportedly alive and well. But nothing was what it seemed." [Fascinating](. Interesting site Alojarte: Accommodation and pencils Just love this. [Sketches of places to stay across Southeast Asia.](. Travel shot [Laid back scenes near Arunothai.] Laid back scenes near Arunothai. Till next time [Sam and Stuart.] That's it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site's new additions and drop us a line if there's something in particular you'd like us to cover in Southeast Asia. Travel light! Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team [( You're receiving the Travelfish newsletter because you signed up at Travelfish.org. Not interested anymore? [Unsubscribe Instantly](. Make sure you're getting our emails! If you're a Gmail user and would prefer your Travelfish newsletter in your Primary in-box rather than Promotions, just drag this email from the Promotions tab to the Primary tab, and click "yes" when it asks if you want to do that for all of our emails. Better still, [read this newsletter online.]( [Disclosure]( | [Privacy]( | [Unsubscribe]( 9 robinson close, hornsby heights, nsw 2077, AUSTRALIA [Unsubscribe]( | [Change Subscriber Options](