Travelfish #315: Java + Java + more Java!

Everywhere is on the way to somewhere Hi all, This week we are all about Indonesia's highly underrated but beautiful Java. We’ve (finally!) got the last part of our coverage of the huge island updated—fittingly, it's the capital, [Jakarta]( that is the icing on the cake. We’ve also got two more Java itineraries on the site: [two weeks in Central Java]( and [two weeks in East Java]( which, when combined with our [two weeks in West Java]( itinerary, give you an awful lot to do in Java! Our soap box is on, you guessed it, Java. We think it could form the centrepiece for a far smarter repurposing of Indonesia’s tourism. The last thing the country needs is ten more Balis! You’ve undoubtably been transfixed by the ongoing rescue operation taking place at Tham Luang in northern Thailand. As I type, four of the boys have been rescued successfully, with eight more and their soccer coach (hero!) still to come, with operations restarting in an hour or so. It really has been edge of the chair stuff—bravo. In books, Sam has another of Paul Theroux’s efforts, this time around revisiting his path of the The Great Railway Bazaar some three decades later. We’d squirm a bit revisiting some of our old stomping grounds, but what is life if not ever changing? Last but not least, if you follow us on Twitter, we’ll be tweeting about how to spend six weeks in Java all week. Follow the [#6weeksinJava]( hashtag to see what we’re on about (we’ll post it on the [Travelfish Facebook page]( as well). Good travels Stuart, Sam and the Travelfish crew Support Travelfish! If you'd like to chip in (if you haven’t already) for using the site, we'd love you to sign up for a year-long subscription for just A$35. [See more here](. Soapbox Discover Java I’ve written repeatedly about how I think Indonesia’s “10 new Balis” campaign isn’t the best way forward for tourism in the country. Sure, some aspects of Bali are great—but there are plenty of problems, and they are growing fast. How about forgetting spruiking 10 new Balis, but instead suggesting people Discover Java? On Travelfish we have six week’s worth of itineraries on the island (West, Central and East). Even if you followed just these to the letter, you’d be barely scratching the proverbial surface what Java has to offer. Lift the rug and you’ll find there is far more to the region than Jakarta, Yogyakarta and a big volcano. I say Indonesia’s Tourism Ministry should replace 10 new Balis with 5 Java trails. Off the top of my head you could have something like: Cultural Java: Jakarta may worship the mall, but Central Java is where the pulse of the Javanese spirt beats loudest. Yes, spend time in [Yogyakarta]( but also visit the city’s arguably more graceful cousin, [Solo](. Take in the remnants of the Mataram, Sailendra and Majapahit kingdoms. Visit the tourist mainstays of [Borobudur]( and [Prambanan]( but also the lesser visited sites including those on the [Dieng Plateau]( the three amazing candis on the slopes of [Gunung Lawu]( [Gedong Songo]( out from Semarang, and further east (and among others) [Trowulan]( from Surabaya. Colonial Java: Clapped out, falling to pieces remnants of colonialism can be found littered across Javanese cities. A colonial-focused trip could feature the standard throwbacks to Batavia in [Jakarta]( [Bogor]( and [Bandung]( but also, heading east, there are no shortage (some thankfully being lovingly restored) of buildings in [Malang]( [Semarang]( and Surabaya—and how could you miss the haunted Dutch officer’s house in [Probolinggo]( The birth of modern Java: Squirming under the Dutch, “study clubs” sprang up across Java, forming the basis of movements that would eventually throw off the shackles of colonialism. Jakarta boasts the birth of a nation monuments, but East Java, especially [Surabaya]( and [Probolinggo]( were the melting pots. Other towns, [Jepara]( for example, were home to even earlier national heros. Visit underrated museums, houses and even the odd hotel with historic connections to the birth of the nation. Now that is a volcano: Running along the north bank of the Sunda trench, Java forms a mainstay of the Ring of Fire and has the volcanoes to prove it. In the far west, bubbling away between Java and Sumatra sits Krakatau, but on the mainland there is also no shortage. [Gunung Tangkuban Parahu]( north of Bandung, the Dieng Plateau, Merapi by Borobudur, Gunung Lawu by Solo, [Gunung Bromo]( and finally, sitting on the cusp of the east coast, [Kawah Ijen](. And these are but a few. Beach time: Java’s beaches are as rugged and hard to get to as Bali’s are overcrowded and easy to reach. Start in the west at [Cimaja]( and [Ujung Genteng]( try [Batu Karas]( and [Pangandaran]( in the middle, the [Karimunjawa]( archipelago off the north coast, or in the far east, near mythical G-Land. Do pack a board and zinc cream. Who needs ten Balis? Best of all, outside of Yogyakarta and Jakarta, foreign travellers are few and far between. Don’t believe us? On Travelfish a post on secondhand clothing in Bangkok gets more eyeballs per month than the entirety of our Malang, Dieng and Solo coverage. So if you’re yearning for the untravelled (at least from a Western perspective—there are afterall loads of domestic travellers across the region), Java is it. Go to Bali afterwards! Good travels, Stuart Premium members only: Book a round the world with [roundtheworldflights.com]( (must travel from the UK via Asia, Australia, New Zealand AND the Americas) and get £30pp off your trip. Offer valid for departures to December 2018. Log in to the Member Centre on Travelfish now for your coupon code and [start designing your own round the world trip »]( What we’re reading Ghost Train to the Eastern Star: On the Tracks of the Great Railway Bazaar by Paul Theroux Ghost Train to the Eastern Star: On the Tracks of the Great Railway Bazaar sees travel writer Paul Theroux return to the same train lines and destinations [that he visited more than 30 years earlier](. Featured Jakarta “OMG get me out of here!” is most visitors reaction when they first arrive in Jakarta, Indonesia’s seething capital, one of the world’s biggest and undeniably craziest of cities. For many first time visitors, nay, even people who have been there repeatedly, the Indonesian capital of Jakarta is an awfully easy place to hate. Pollution choked, traffic clogged and drowning in its own swampy mire, we wouldn’t be exaggerating if we said there is very little to love there, but we would in fact be wrong. Pollution choked, that’s pretty much a fact, but wandering down the back streets and lanes, you’re just as likely to be assaulted by the [smoking aroma of racks of satay]( as a face full of scooter exhaust (okay, perhaps both). The food is wildly varied, affordable and you can’t stumble far before finding something to graze on. While this is no Bali when it comes to getting a drink, there are still some excellent bars, some on floors way up high, where you can enjoy a skyline like no other. The city is jammed not just with traffic, but also with a bewildering array of [museums]( some [excellent]( [art]( [galleries]( and some [stunning]( [houses]( of [worship]( with many faiths represented. And of course, one of the best ways to avoid those legendary jams is to walk—yes, really, Jakarta is [a fascinating walking city]( Outside of wet season, (when it is obvious!), people forget modern-day Jakarta began with a settlement on what by and large was a swamp in the northern reaches of town. It is here, in the [Kota Tua]( area that you’ll find the best remnants of the Dutch period, and, encouragingly, some buildings are being saved from the wrecking ball, slowly and lovingly being restored—watch out for ghosts. Wander up to the historic harbour area, where even today you can see the tall-masted wooden freighters, primed for lugging their wares across the archipelago. So while the immediate thought may be to “get the hell out of Dodge”, take a breath, [grab a place to stay]( give the capital a day or two, and use it as an introduction to your exploration of Java. [Learn more about Jakarta here](Travelfish&utm_medium=Newsletter&utm_campaign=2018?awt_l=GzET6&awt_m=3hS6eqLk4R4pyPl). Travelfish partners [Head to Indonesia with Intrepid Travel]( If you thought Indonesia was all big resorts and Bintang, it might be time to check your atlas -- Intrepid Travel offer [20 adventure trips to Indonesia](. News from the region BURMA I: Myanmar court charges Reuters reporters with official secrets offence “Earlier this month, defence lawyers asked the judge to throw out the case, arguing the prosecution had failed to provide sufficient evidence to support the charges. They said the journalists were arrested in a sting operation by the police that was aimed at interfering with their reporting.” [Beyond farce](. BURMA II: Fleas we greatly loathe “But the Western governments that backed the transition in Myanmar, particularly the US and UK, indulged too much in a hope that the ‘Rohingya problem’ was merely a bump in the road towards a more democratic state, rather than [the catastrophe]( in waiting it has turned out to be.” BURMA III: How Facebook’s rise fueled chaos and confusion in Myanmar “But the process lacks scalability and is not efficient, those involved say. In one case in late November 2017, it took three days from initial flagging of a post threatening a prominent journalist to its removal, by which time it had been copied and shared numerous times. The journalist, [fearing for their safety]( left the country that month and has not returned.” A must read. CAMBODIA I: Cambodia “fake news” crackdown prompts fears over press freedom “Facing criticism the new rules were [a further attempt to strangle freedom of expression]( in the lead up to the general election on 29 July, Sovann said Cambodia was joining the global battle against fake news.” CAMBODIA II: Cambodia’s dirty dozen “The reshuffle comes amid a political crackdown. With China’s backing, Hun Sen [has stopped paying lip service]( to human rights concerns such as free speech, free press and freedom of association.” CAMBODIA III: Cambodia restores railway link to Thailand after 45 years “Cambodian Transport Minister Sun Chanthol said a train ran on Wednesday morning from the north-western province of Pursat to Phnom Penh, [the last remaining section]( of the track between the two countries to be finished.” INDONESIA I: Captain of sinking Indonesian ferry sails onto reef; 31 dead “The captain of a sinking Indonesian ferry managed to steer his ship onto a reef to enable the evacuation of more than 100 passengers, but [31 people drowned]( as the vessel floundered in stormy seas, officials said on Wednesday.” INDONESIA II: Protesters paddle out against development at Perenenen Beach [So much stupid](. INDONESIA III: Saving turtles in Bali, egg by precious egg “The largely volunteer campaign to save Bali’s sea turtles is [a rare success story]( on this popular tourist island, which struggles with environmental challenges, including shoreline trash, eroding beaches and soul-sapping traffic jams.” MALAYSIA: Najib Razak arrested and charged in 1MDB scandal “Mr. Najib quashed an investigation into the scandal when it exploded three years ago. But he is no longer able to dictate events after being cast from office in a stunning election loss in May, and the country’s new leader, Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad, [has moved quickly to restart investigations]( THAILAND I: In daring underwater cave rescue, 4 of 13 Thai are freed “The rescue was far from over — but it was a remarkable turn in the 16-day drama that has captivated Thailand and the world.” [Truly amazing](. THAILAND II: Phuket boat tragedy shows our indifference “Forty-two is the latest number of tourists who fell victims to a boat mishap in Phuket last week. Or should I say, to be more exact, that they were victims of negligence, [sheer dereliction of duty]( of the authorities concerned and of a "This Is Thailand" culture? ” VIETNAM: A new model for Ho Chi Minh City’s sidewalks “For some, however, the question isn’t whether Ho Chi Minh City could create more street food areas, [but whether the city should]( Travel writing BURMA: Wild waters: Loikaw “For the first installment in our new travel series focused on wild swimming spots, we head to the Kayah State capital for waterfalls, islands – [and fried frogs]( INDONESIA/MALAYSIA: The ten best mountain hikes in Borneo “Here is a round-up of [ten of the finest mountains]( that can be hiked in Borneo, whether in Malaysian Sarawak and Sabah or Indonesian Kalimantan. ” INDONESIA I: Ritual sacrifice draws crowds to Indonesian volcano Mount Bromo “Each year people from the Tengger tribe gather from the surrounding highlands to cast fruit, vegetables, flowers, and even livestock such as goats and chickens into Mount Bromo's smoking crater as part of the Yadnya Kasada festival.” [Poor goat](. INDONESIA II: Five beaches to visit in West Sumbawa [We agree with most of these]( though reckon Kertasari (among others) is also worth a mention. LAOS: See the rich spiritual and cultural traditions of Laos “Wat Xiengthong, with its steeply sloping pagoda-style roof and walls richly embellished with carvings and mosaics, is [arguably the most impressive of these]( THAILAND: Could Thailand’s artificial lake be the answer to its overcrowded beaches? “The national park has become a popular destination for travelers looking for the [unspoilt nature and cheap bungalows]( that many of Thailand’s other beaches no longer offer. Most visitors stay for a night on two, going on boat safaris and hikes in the eerily beautiful landscape by day, and sleeping in floating bungalows by night.” TRAVEL I: Travel Epiphanies with Stuart McDonald When in Bangkok recently, Stuart sat down with Siddhant from Thailand Starter Kit and [talked and talked and talked some more](. TRAVEL II: Forget Airbnb. Hotels are the non-place to be “Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands, where you could lose a giraffe, and probably buy one, [is almost an anti-place]( TRAVEL III: Hotel booking sites could be forced to stop claiming “one room left” [About time](. VIETNAM: The magnificent Kingdom of Caves in Vietnam “Son Doong or Thien Duong cave might have hogged the international spotlight, [but other caves are equally spectacular options]( Interesting site Thailand Starter Kit Are you testing the waters in Thailand? Or are you an established expat in the kingdom? If you need help with living, working, retiring, or starting a business in the Land of Smiles, [you’ve come to the right website](. Travel shot [Oh so pretty. Photo: Sally Arnold] Oh so pretty. Photo: Sally Arnold Till next time [Sam and Stuart.] That’s it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site’s new additions and drop us a line if there’s something in particular you’d like us to cover in Southeast Asia. Travel light! Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team [( You're receiving the Travelfish newsletter because you signed up at Travelfish.org. Not interested anymore? [Unsubscribe Instantly](. Make sure you're getting our emails! If you're a Gmail user and would prefer your Travelfish newsletter in your Primary in-box rather than Promotions, just drag this email from the Promotions tab to the Primary tab, and click "yes" when it asks if you want to do that for all of our emails. Better still, [read this newsletter online.]( [Disclosure]( | [Privacy]( | [Unsubscribe]( We want travellers to love Southeast Asia as much as we do. 9 robinson close, hornsby heights, nsw 2077, AUSTRALIA [Unsubscribe]( | [Change Subscriber Options](