Travelfish #297: Indonesia & selfies + Our fave Thai beach bungalows for under 1, 000 baht

Everywhere is on the way to somewhere Hi all, New on Travelfish with week we have all the text from David’s massive [Ko Chang]( rewrite. The pics are coming this week, but we wanted to get the text up soonest. For a quick primer, our [top choices for places to stay]( are here (again, pics coming this week). On the road Sally and Stuart are on their last leg in East Java (this newsletter has been typed on the VERY late running Argo Bromo Anggrek bound for Surabaya), David in back in Thailand’s eastern islands and an extremely cold Cindy has been trekking, boating and getting close to hot coals in far northern Laos. This week’s soapbox looks at Indonesia’s penchant for selfies, the book review features The Lover and the featured destination is not a single destination but rather ten of David’s favourite bungalow hangouts in Thailand. Of course, they are all reviewed in depth on the website. Support Travelfish! If you'd like to chip in (if you haven’t already) for using the site, we'd love you to sign up for a year-long subscription for just A$35. [See more here](. Exclusive for Travelfish readers: Save an additional 7% at Agoda [Use promo code Tfishpromo »]( Soapbox On selfies Sally and I are on the final leg of our East Java trip, having reached the westernmost point, the Dieng Plateau, a few days ago. Set within what is thought to be the remnants of the caldera of an ancient volcano, the entire plateau is over 2,000 metres high (yes it is cold!) and it is ringed by still active volcanoes. One morning I headed to a summit hoping for a dawn view of some of the surrounding volcanoes. Unfortunately the weather didn’t cooperate and at the summit there were hundreds of people, probably 500 at a wild guess. All Indonesian, I was the sole foreign face, and, as the mist (once again) closed in, I became quite the selfie magnet. I stopped counting at 30, but I’d wager well over 50 Indonesian hikers now have photos of them posing with some random unshaven foreigner in a beanie atop the mountain. I have a high threshold to selfie irritation, but this was relentless. Even when the mist cleared briefly, people were more interested in being photographed with me than in front of the volcanoes they had climbed to see. Nobody was rude of course, there were plenty of smiles, laughter and “thank you Mister!” as people patiently waited in line to take a photo with me. I guess the volcanoes will always be there tomorrow, but who knows how often a foreigner blows through. The day before, we’d visited the Sikidang crater where sulphur emissions bubble up through mud pools and steam gushes from cavities in the earth—a preview for the apocalypse if there ever was one. If you’ve never seen something like it, it is quite breathtaking (literally if you get on the wrong side of the clouds of sulphuric emissions). Unfortunately the crater has been marred by all manner of “selfie platforms and props” where, sometimes for a few rupiah, you can pose with a decidedly motley artificial panda (we think perhaps it was papier-mâché on a bamboo frame covered in hair cuttings from the local hair dresser), or two equally festy gorillas, a US army jeep and an entire array of platforms and bamboo structures to pose on. We’d seen similar in the hills above Solo where entire ridges of Gunung Lawu were lined with selfie platforms. In places Indonesia is a staggeringly beautiful country—and certainly not one that needs “improvement” in the way we’ve repeatedly scene on this trip. We get the appeal, especially for children of posing with cartoon characters and so on, but do think a guiding hand to get some of these developments under control would not be a bad thing—otherwise there may be even fewer foreigners to take selfies with. There are exceptions of course, like when we encountered the Teletubies at Anjuna Temple. Yes, guilty as charged. Good travels. Stuart Premium members only: Book a round the world with [roundtheworldflights.com]( (must travel from the UK via Asia, Australia, New Zealand AND the Americas) and get £30pp off your trip. Offer valid for departures to December 2018. Log in to the Member Centre on Travelfish now for your coupon code and [start designing your own round the world trip »]( What we’re reading The Lover by Marguerite Duras Based on her childhood growing up in and around Saigon in the 1930s, Marguerite Duras’ The Lover is a [languid, almost meditative autobiographical novel]( at once erotic, disturbing, beautiful, shocking and revealing. Thank you Just a few quick words of thanks to businesses who have decided to advertise direct with us on Travelfish recently. If you know a business, small or large, who may be interested in advertising on the site, please send them our [One Page Media Kit!]( [Asia Highlights]( offer tailor made travel through Vietnam, [Take Me Tour]( offer experiences with locals out of Chiang Mai and, last but not least, [Akha Kitchen]( offer Thai cooking classes in Chiang Rai. Featured destination FAVOURITE THAI BEACH BUNGALOWS Lounging on the porch of a bungalow, a beach dog curled up at your feet as waves splash and a hornbill glides out of the treetops—is there any better travel experience in Thailand? For the past six years, finding quality beach bungalows for less than 1,000 baht per night has topped my priority list when covering any island or mainland beach for Travelfish. The below were chosen out of hundreds of bungalow operations on roughly 40 Thai islands. I’m not saying they are, necessarily, “the best” bungalows in Thailand; just that they’re all places where I’ve had great experiences and look forward to visiting again. (Notable islands I’ve not covered, and so weren’t considered for this list, include Phuket, Ko Phi Phi, Ko Yao Yai/Noi, and Ko Kut.) [Ao Nuan Bungalows, Ko Samet] Ao Nuan Bungalows, Ko Samet The namesake bungalows of Nuan Bay sit sheltered between bigger bays and a forest behind, the [perfect conditions for backpackers](. Built into the trees, the shacks stand far apart—here and there—over a hillside, or under umbrella trees just beyond the secluded sand. Helpful staff serves quality Thai food, and those bigger bays, with their barbecues and parties, aren’t far beyond the headlands. Rates start at 800 baht—reasonable for Samet. Chao Lae Homestay, Ko Bulon Lae I don’t care that the bungalows lack direct sea views. A distinctive beach, Ao Panka Yai, begins 30 metres away and is strewn with opaque sea glass, polished shells and boulders—head to the eastern corner at low tide to find an unforgettable sunset spot. The family in charge has caught fish around here for generations and the restaurant is one of my favourites in Satun province. A sturdy wooden fan bungalow with squat toilet, cold water, and [most likely some chickens clucking around out front]( fetches 400 baht. [Coco Lodge, Ko Muk] Coco Lodge, Ko Muk The Trang natives behind this [smoothly managed budget resort]( took a seaside coconut grove on an island where the tourism industry was just starting to take hold, committed to preserving their trees, gathered coconut wood, bamboo, sand, thatch leaves and other readily available materials, and tied together some bungalows. I say “tie” rather than “build” because the architectural feeling, using few nails, is more “bird’s nest” than “building”. The sea breeze flows straight through these 800-baht bungalows, with hammocks strung up to the many trees and a seafront cafe affording you a dramatic view to the Pakmeng cliffs. Gipsy Resort, Ko Lipe The first time I set foot in Gipsy back in 2011, the Spanish manager served me a spirits-raising “Roma” espresso. I thought he was Italian. Turns out he’s a very nice Spanish guy who runs these good-value bungalows alongside a Lipe native, who is also a very nice guy, on a fabulous stretch of a beach that ranks among Thailand’s five best, in my book. Starting below 1,000 baht, only a few of the bungalows have direct sea views, but [a laid back vibe pervades grounds draped in flowering bushes](. Don’t worry about the dark walkway behind the resort—the Urak Lawoi people who live there are members of the family in charge, and they are good people. [June Horizon, Ko Phayam] June Horizon, Ko Phayam Arriving on Phayam for the first time, I rented a bike and rode around with my pack, finally stopping at June Horizon because it was at the end of the road. Dim lights and Tibetan flags drew me inside, and I climbed into a tall stilted bungalow with an A-shaped thatch roof, wide gaps between thin wooden wall panels and a thatch-leaf door, for 600 baht. I stayed six nights, losing track of time. In the face of torrential storms that billowed south from Burma, this lanky bungalow kept me dry and cozy yet connected to the natural forces. When the winds died down, I made friends with other guests and watched [bioluminescent plankton paint the water neon green]( beneath the brightest stars I’d seen in years. Porn’s Bungalows, Ko Chang Tourism-wise, Ko Chang is an old island that’s seen its share of drama—original land owner opens bungalows, makes a little money, sells land to developer and it becomes yet another obtrusive concrete resort. [This did not happen to Porn]( (a common Thai name), the head of a native family offering fan-cooled wooden bungalows for as little as 600 baht on a quiet corner of Kai Bae. Topping it off is a seaside, treehouse-style restaurant serving fiery Thai dishes (try the jungle curry). Also on Chang, check out Independent Bo’s artistic bungalows, and Oasis’ own treehouse setup overlooking Lonely Beach. [Libong Beach Resort, Ko Libong] Libong Beach Resort, Ko Libong A beautiful beach with limestone cliffs dotting the horizon and only the sound of longtail boats puttering home at sunset… This is Ko Libong, a favourite of mine in Trang province. For backpacking couples, [I can’t think of a more romantic option than the sea-view, wood-and-bamboo stilted bungalows at this]( Libong’s original family-run resort, for around 800 baht. On a sparsely travelled island that’s a delight to explore, the skillful chefs and other services—maps, boat service, kayaks, motorbikes and bicycles—are much appreciated. Si Boya Bungalows, Ko Si Boya I usually travel with a book, but only in really quiet places do I tend to sink deep into a story. By the end of a stay at Si Boya Bungalows, [I had finished The History of China](. Part of Krabi province but sitting largely forgotten in the shadows of Lanta and Phi Phi, Ko Si Boya is haunting with its weathered boats and cows and the echo of the imams calling out prayers at dusk. The owner provides an excellent service, from pick up at the pier to quality food and solid bamboo bungalows for 400 baht. A few foreigners have also built beach houses, which are often available for rent. [Sai Thong Resort, Ko Tao] Sai Thong Resort, Ko Tao Ko Tao can seem like a lost cause with its mismanagement, money-grabbing attitudes and accusations of corrupt cops and mafia-type figures or, at least, a poorly handled investigation into the 2014 murders of two British travellers. But Tao keeps on drawing in the backpackers, and I think [Sai Thong is one good reason why](. Like Ao Nuan on Samet, make the extra effort to reach this low-key backpacker hangout and I suspect you’ll find the Tao that Tao intended itself to be. Basic wooden bungalows start at 500 baht and you’ll find plenty of space to swim and play beneath the palms of pretty Haad Sai Nuan. Golden Beach Resort, Ko Pha Ngan A 450-baht bungalow with a big porch built above a boulder within a jump of the sea—that was my happy fate on the long southern coastline of an island that’s a whole lot of fun to explore. The family in charge offers positive vibes, a full bar and tasty Thai dishes served [on a deck with a smashing view of the sunset]( over Samui and the Ang Thong Islands. When I’m in Bangkok, at exciting places like the motor vehicle registry, I often daydream about bungalow #4 at Golden Beach. Lounging on the porch of a bungalow, a beach dog curled up at your feet as waves splash and a hornbill glides out of the treetops—is there any better travel experience in Thailand? Travelfish partners We work with a number of partners on a commission basis and this helps keep us in business. Please consider using the following links to make any reservations as a commission may end up being paid to us, with no impact on what you pay. Thank you! Flights: [roundtheworldflights.com]( Places to stay: [Agoda]( [Booking]( Tours and activities: [TourRadar]( [GetYourGuide]( Ground transport: [12Go Asia]( Travel insurance: [World Nomads]( News from the region BURMA I: The Rohingya Suffer Real Horrors. So Why Are Some of Their Stories Untrue? “[But there were inconsistencies](. Noorshad said he liked cricket, a sport popular in Bangladesh but not in Myanmar. His grandparents were killed by the military, he told me, but then he admitted they had died of natural causes.” BURMA II: ‘Corpses in puddles of acid’: Mass graves discovered in Burma “The story of one survivor, told to AP, tells of a group of men starting a local game similar to football before Burmese soldiers opened fire. He later found six of his friends buried in two separate mass graves. He was only able to [identify them from the colour of their shorts]( CAMBODIA: Three killed in jungle when patrol comes under fire; fellow authorities suspected “Putheara stressed that as of last night he had no clear information as to the cause of the shootout and that more investigation was needed, but said it could be concluded that the shootout was [“related to illegal logging in our protected area”]( INDONESIA I: 'Most of the children still have parents': behind the facade of a Bali orphanage “Interviews in Tanarara – where the NGO affiliated with Jodie O’Shea House has built a community well – suggest about 12 children from the village have gone to the Bali home. [Most were not orphans]( INDONESIA II: Rights groups slam Aceh transgender raid as investigation ordered “The women were detained for 72 hours and were told by police officers to shout until [“their male voices came out”]( said Ahmad, who has since said he regretted people being “offended” by the raid.” LAOS: US imposes sanctions on Australian man working for 'Sin City' casino in Laos “"There's been a lot of talk about where that money gets washed, where it moves, and because of the proximity of that casino — [it's in the heart of the Golden Triangle]( — there's been allegations it's been used to launder money from the drug business."” SINGAPORE: Raffles Still Looms Large over Post-colonial Singapore ““It was about asserting a sovereign idea of a nation that fits exactly into the island,” he says. “That can only happen if you ignore the Malay past, ignore the sultans, ignore Singapore’s links with the Malay world. [So, you focus on Raffles]( THAILAND I: The Neverending Story of Thailand’s Elusive Election “It is a big question, but he has found himself more time to get the answer. Commentators have suggested the delay will be used to put together a pro-junta party, [with Prayut at the top]( and develop a political brand more palatable to a democratic election. ” THAILAND II: Thailand’s amazing tourism an amazing mess “But Weerasak said that boon is also Thailand’s bane. Destinations that tout “sea, sand and sun” such as Phuket and its outer islands are now dangerously overcrowded, plagued by waste issues and running short of fresh water. They have seen no major infrastructure overhauls in over a decade, he said.” [FINALLY SOME SENSE](. VIETNAM: Coping with life after a daughter's disappearance “They traced Mi as far as Ha Giang, a city in the north of Vietnam, but by the time they got there, [she was gone](. Nobody had seen her, and they were told by local people that she had probably been taken to China to be sold as someone's wife.” Travel writing CAMBODIA: The lovely lazy river town of Kampot, Cambodia “There’s not much to do in Kampot, [which is part of its charm](. It’s a good base to explore nearby mountains and coastal areas.” Backpacking Packing List “Also, this packing list is for backpacking travel…not for walking the Appalachian Trail. The old mantra of packing light is a cliché, and you have heard it so many times before, but really — [DO NOT TAKE TOO MUCH]( Amen. Pandan, Southeast Asia's Humble Leaf Set to Take the World by Storm “[Pandan’s growing popularity]( overseas and the fact that it is already taking off in the United States reflects the west's obsession with "exotic" eastern ingredients.” LAOS: The Woven Art of Laos “In Laos, [the couple could see the potential]( for showcasing to the world the extraordinary weaving that was used for religious and ritual ceremonies as well as everyday wear.” THAILAND: From dusk till dawn: in search of old-school Bangkok “They say [the last wild tiger was shot in the city in 1910](. And that was in Bang Na, now a vast conglomeration of luxury malls.” VIETNAM: The Floating Forest of Long An “Providing you visit on a weekday, walking in the Floating Forest is very rewarding. You could easily spend a couple of hours exploring all the meandering routes – through the trees, over lakes filled with blooming water lilies, up to the top of a look-out tower, over wooden bridges – stopping to read a book, listening to the sounds of nature (and the road), and just generally wallowing in the fact that only a few hours ago you were riding through the soot-covered industrial suburbs of Saigon, [and now you’re in the calm embrace of a floating cajeput forest]( Interesting site Start Backpacking Relaunched for 2018: [A great resource for the independent traveller](. Travel shot [Simple living at Sai Thong. Photo: David Luekens] There is never a bad time to visit Don Dhet in southern Laos. Till next time [Sam and Stuart.] That’s it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site’s new additions and drop us a line if there’s something in particular you’d like us to cover in Southeast Asia. Travel light! Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team [( You're receiving the Travelfish newsletter because you signed up at Travelfish.org. Not interested anymore? [Unsubscribe Instantly](. Make sure you're getting our emails! If you're a Gmail user and would prefer your Travelfish newsletter in your Primary in-box rather than Promotions, just drag this email from the Promotions tab to the Primary tab, and click "yes" when it asks if you want to do that for all of our emails. Better still, [read this newsletter online.]( [Disclosure]( | [Privacy]( | [Unsubscribe]( We want travellers to love Southeast Asia as much as we do. 9 robinson close, hornsby heights, nsw 2077, AUSTRALIA [Unsubscribe]( | [Change Subscriber Options](