Travelfish #287: A day in the life + Out and about + Membership drive!

Everywhere is on the way to somewhere Hi everyone, This week’s theme is "Out and about" and we’re showcasing Travelfish as a part of a membership drive. We’ve also got a review of The Penguin History of Modern Vietnam and a quite fancy video from Bali—we wish we had their travel budget! More below the fold. Exclusive for Travelfish readers: Save an additional 7% at Agoda [Use promo code Tfishpromo »]( The week that was This month, we’re running a membership drive to get more people signing up as Travelfish members. Membership costs just A$35 and includes: Two hundred and thirty five pdf guides, access to the forum, discounts for ticketing and travel with [roundtheworldflights.com]( and [All Points East]( and last but not least, a warm and fuzzy feeling inside for helping keep us in business... Not convinced? [More information here.]( Or listen to Travelfish member Rich when he says: “In a world of travel reviews with undisclosed conflicts of interest, Travelfish provides the absolute best credible and up to date information on SEAsia destinations. 10/10 would do again.” Or perhaps [the New York Times]( “On the recommendation of the indispensable Southeast Asia travel guide, Travelfish...” To the many of you who have already signed up as paid members, thank you very much! This month, we’ve asked some of our researchers to write about what a day in their life is like when they’re on the road for Travelfish. This is aimed at giving you a better idea of what is involved in creating what you can read online and this week we have David driving the soapbox—we hope you enjoy it—and David we’re sorry we didn’t give you three days to find the cat cave! Online we’ve got a new and shiny [travel planning section](. If you’re in the process of starting to plan your very first trip you’ll find a load of useful information in there (we hope). We’ve also been busy on the tech side speeding the site up a bit—hopefully you'll see the results in the coming week as we roll out the improvements. Don’t forget about the 7% additional discount off hotels booked with Agoda. To get your discount, [go to this page]( search for a hotel you want to book and, as long as it is marked "Promotion Eligible", the discount is good. Enter the coupon code Tfishpromo (case sensitive) and you’ll score an extra 7% off. Please forward this newsletter on to any friends, family, strangers in bars, bus drivers, som tam ladies or massage men you think might be interested to receive it. Good travels, Stuart, Sam and the Travelfish team Premium members only: Book a round the world with [roundtheworldflights.com]( (must travel from the UK via Asia, Australia, New Zealand AND the Americas) and get £30pp off your trip. Offer valid for departures to December 2018. Log in to the Member Centre on Travelfish now for your coupon code and [start designing your own round the world trip »]( Soapbox Down the muddy road—David “Is it cool if I check out Ao Siad, the far southern bay?” I posed this question to Stuart, co-founder and director of Travelfish, before setting off to rewrite the Ko Chang Noi travel guide last year. “Sure”, he replied, despite knowing there’d be virtually no financial incentive in sending a writer to the most remote corner of this remote Thai island. Yet he knew that side journeys into little-known territory often reveal something special—something that our readers might like to know about. In a forest-green parka I trudged through a drizzle, and then a downpour, down a muddy road that was more like a rock-strewn streambed. On the three-hour hike I saw no one save a wispy bearded man tending to fragrant cashew trees. Finally I spotted a sign marked with one misspelt word: “PIRATS.” The rolling lane narrowed to a path as I looked for tree snakes on the foliage brushing against my neck. At the end I found a pirate-themed driftwood hideaway on one of the most isolated beaches with accommodation that I’d ever come across in Thailand. Hornbills glided down from the old growth. A trio of native islanders welcomed me at the bar. Woven bamboo huts draped in wildflowers faced the Andaman Sea, each fetching just 200 baht per night. For a certain type of traveller, [the place will be paradise](. Of course, prioritisation is key for any travel publisher hoping to earn a living. Stuart occasionally denies my requests to venture three days out of the way in search of a cave that supposedly looks like a cat, for example, and we do cover the most popular destinations in depth as well. But above all, I think, we strive to guide and inspire readers who really want to go out and explore. I do it so that you’ll know how to reach the [undeveloped beaches on Ko Muk]( whether [Huai Mae Khamin Waterfall]( really stacks up to Erawan Waterfall; how much of the Preah Vihear ruins can be [seen from the Thai side]( of the border; where to find a [high-mountain homestay]( in Chiang Rai; which of [Ayutthaya's outlying temples]( are worth checking out; what to expect on the [Death Highway to Umphang]( or whether you should follow that sign for [“Crystal Water” in Krabi](. Of course, my “exploration” is not always so exciting. I ask locals where they like to eat and unwind. I walk for hours in extreme heat. I run my fingers over surfaces, looking for dust, in hotel rooms. In the words of a former Travelfish writer who first got me hooked on the site nearly a decade ago: “A visit to the bus station isn’t a matter of ‘when does the next bus leave’. Rather, it’s, “When do all the buses to everywhere leave?’” Yes, [even in Khorat](. Whatever the “muddy road” means in a given place, I’ll take it and tell you what it’s like. From there, the exploring is up to you. Good travels David Featured The Khao Chaison loop Monkeys, hot springs, temples, curry paste and shadow puppets are some of the draws of Baan Khao Chaison and Bang Kaeo, a pair of small towns located south of Phattalung along the railroad tracks. None of the individual attractions will knock your socks off, but they combine for [some unusual experiences]( along with glimpses of rural Southern Thai life. What we're watching Bali 2017 Indonesia travel diaries Recommendations, ideas, hotels, epic views in Bali [from our trip in 2017](. Film by WeiS PRoDuCTioNS. What we're reading The Penguin History of Modern Vietnam by Christopher Goscha Written from a scholarly, academic perspective but remaining accessible, 2017-published The Penguin History of Modern Vietnam is a broad-ranging, detail-oriented history of Vietnam that goes well beyond the usual focus of the American War years so much favoured by Western authors. If you’re looking for an up-to-the-minute, sweeping history of Vietnam that honours its incredible complexity, [you’ve found it](. Notes from the road BURMA: Saddar Cave [BURMA: Saddar Cave]( A visit to wonderful Saddar Cave is one of Kayin State’s highlights. The limestone karst scenery of Zwegabin and the numerous jagged, mountainous outcrops sprouting abruptly from the paddy surrounding Hpa-an host myriad spectacular caves. Saddar (sometimes written Saddan) involves a cave temple but also a hike through underground passages to the far side of a mountain and a return by wooden boat. [It really is something special](. CAMBODIA: Tours of Battambang [CAMBODIA: Tours of Battambang]( Walking ‘heritage’ tours take in wats, markets and colonial buildings in town while some of the cycling options take you to Phnom Sampeou, Wat Banan or Wat Ek, stopping at villages on route. This is a great way to visit the area’s sights while taking in the magnificent local scenery [at a leisurely pace](. INDONESIA: Yogyakarta bike tours [INDONESIA: Yogyakarta bike tours]( Several tour companies run Yogya village bike tours, which provide real insights into authentic Javanese village life. On first impressions, Yogyakarta may seem like a busy traffic-clogged modern city, but minutes out of town the paddy fields mature, farmers tend their crops and local industries produce traditional products, [just as they have done for millennia](. ISLANDS: Diving, snorkelling and boat trips [ISLANDS: Diving, snorkelling and boat trips]( The warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand make Phu Quoc [a popular spot to take a peek under the sea]( and get PADI certified. Diving and snorkelling on the island is best from November or December until March, which is the exact opposite to other Vietnam dive sites of Nha Trang, Whale Island and Hoi An. LAOS: Pha Tad Ke Botanical Garden [LAOS: Pha Tad Ke Botanical Garden]( Some boat tour companies now offer an itinerary combining the gardens with Kuang Si waterfall. Pha Tad Ke is quickly rising to the top as [one of Luang Prabang’s special attractions](. MALAYSIA: Do-it-yourself walking tour of Johor Bahru [MALAYSIA: Do-it-yourself walking tour of Johor Bahru]( Most of Johor Bahru’s places of interest are clustered in the downtown heritage area, easily explored on foot. Two must-visit landmarks, Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque and Arulmigu Sri Raja Kaliamman Glass Temple, lay a few kilometres away in different directions. We’d suggest taking a taxi to either to start [our self-designed heritage trail](. SINGAPORE: A walk along Singapore's Emerald Hill [SINGAPORE: A walk along Singapore's Emerald Hill]( Emerald Hill is one of the most colourful streets in Singapore and makes an easy detour from the shopping belt of Orchard Road. Come for the beautiful Peranakan architecture, a bit of antiquing, or [maybe a drink at one of the trendy bars]( THAILAND: Chili Paste Bangkok food tour [THAILAND: Chili Paste Bangkok food tour]( It can seem counterintuitive to do a food tour in a city with as much food in your face as Bangkok, but a tour with Chin from Chili Paste Tours, can be a terrific way for both the novice and the more experienced street food eater, to get more than just an extra kilo out of [their eating time in the Thai capital](. VIETNAM: Back of the Bike Tours [VIETNAM: Back of the Bike Tours]( Want to know [what the locals are munching on]( on footpaths, street corners and in parks? Ever wonder how the banh xeo in Ho Chi Minh City differs than the one you had in Hoi An? Travelfish partners We work with a number of partners on a commission basis and this helps keep us in business. Please consider using the following links to make any reservations as a commission may end up being paid to us, with no impact on what you pay. Thank you! Flights: [roundtheworldflights.com]( Places to stay: [Agoda]( [Booking]( Tours and activities: [TourRadar]( [GetYourGuide]( Ground transport: [12Go Asia]( Travel insurance: [World Nomads]( News from the region BURMA I: Myanmar’s Suu Kyi now benefits from Southeast Asia’s silence "When the U.N. Security Council last week called for Myanmar to “end the excessive military force and intercommunal violence that had devastated the Rohingya community,” Suu Kyi’s office responded [that it regretted the council’s statement]( BURMA II: Rohingya babies dumped and left to die in Myanmar crisis "We have witnessed scenes of [shocking deprivation]( and desperation among thousands of stranded Rohingya Muslims in Myanmar, including emaciated women and newborn babies who have been dumped on beaches and left to die." BURMA III: Myanmar military exonerates itself in report on atrocities against Rohingya A senior UN official, who had toured the refugee camps in Bangladesh, on Sunday accused Myanmar’s military of conducting organised [mass rape and other crimes against humanity](. INDONESIA: Two suspected terrorists shot dead after blaze at police HQ "Police officers attempted to detain the two men for investigation but they resisted with one of the men shooting an arrow at them, Rikwanto said. The officers fired a warning shot that was ignored as the men continued to fight the police. The officers then shot the two men, [killing them instantly]( THAILAND: Jihadism in Southern Thailand: A Phantom Menace "The priority for the Thai government and Malay-Muslim militants should be to end the conflict that has cost almost 7,000 lives since 2004, [not to act on speculation]( regarding possible jihadist inroads." Travel writing BURMA I: Travel hubs in Burma "Go-Myanmar.com is proud to partner with responsible businesses around Myanmar to create the Go-Myanmar.com Travel Hub network – places for visitors to Myanmar to get [unbiased, reliable tourism information]( BURMA II: Who stole Burma’s royal ruby? "This is the story most often told in Burma, and many see Sladen’s knighthood just a few months later - for “special service in Burma” - as proof that he must have taken the ruby, donated it to Queen Victoria, and been [gonged in return]( BURMA III: Running from Myanmar "Immersing himself into the situation, the photojournalist concedes that “there were some challenges” but adds that “they were [absolutely insignificant]( in comparison to the difficulties faced by the Rohingya men, women, and children in their epic journey from their villages in Myanmar to the refugee camps in Bangladesh.”" CAMBODIA: Leaving Cambodia: How do I do right by the place I called home? "For a few, [their activism cost them their lives](. My old paper no longer exists; my colleagues are without jobs. I had the privilege of being able to leave it all. The question now is how I do right by the place I called home for so long." INDONESIA: This Indonesian Island Is a Respite From Bali. At Least for Now. "He insisted that he wasn’t going to allow Gili Air, population 1,481, or Gili Meno, which has just 424 residents, to become overdeveloped like Gili T, which has long been a backpacker party haunt. And he said he would [never allow]( gasoline-fueled scooters on the island. (Only electric ones are currently permitted but they are not available to rent.)" Hmmm PODCASTS: The Travel Podcast Comes Into Its Own “There will always be a place for a few friends sitting around a kitchen table with a USB microphone and a laptop, as long as they talk about interesting stuff. It’s the wonderfully [democratized end of broadcasting]( SOUTHEAST ASIA: 30 things to do on your first trip to Southeast Asia Not all of these are actually in Southeast Asia, but a good starting point for the [first-time traveller](. THAILAND: Off-road tourism "Motorbikes are convenient in crowded big cities," says Khem, "but they're also a more fuel-efficient way to explore tourist attractions [off the beaten track](. And in Thailand, you can ride them all year round." TOURS: Elephant ride tour distribution – the whole market vs curated canary An interesting read on the [online tour resellers](. VIETNAM I: The blogger "They call us reactionaries. In the past, if someone was named a reactionary, they could be killed at once without any trial. So you can imagine how terrible it is, that word. So they call us reactionaries, and maybe they spread the word to the home village. And of course the family don’t have enough information to think what is wrong, what is right, because Vietnamese people, we’re living under the ruling Communist Party for a long time, for several decades. So they don’t know what’s really happening to our country, and they don’t know how important our work to defend our country is. [They’re always afraid]( VIETNAM II: MSG in pho and what to do about it "However, when my pho seems a little off, I may try to right it with a little MSG. Sometimes it works and [sometimes it doesn’t](. " Interesting site Coast Vietnam "What the World needs most in these troubled times — more than a better mousetrap, more than a good ten-cent Bia Hoi, even — is a guide to some of the coolest places to get your kicks in Hoi An City. I mean the kind of [real inside dope]( that only those in-the-know can provide. Conveyed to a grateful public in the form of a handy website and free, monthly travel guide." Travel shot [An inviting middle tier at Thi Lor Su Waterfall. Photo: David Luekens] An inviting middle tier at Thi Lor Su Waterfall. Photo: David Luekens Till next time [Sam and Stuart.] That's it from us for now. As usual, enjoy the site's new additions and drop us a line if there's something in particular you'd like us to cover in Southeast Asia. Travel light! Stuart, Sam & the Travelfish team [( You're receiving the Travelfish newsletter because you signed up at Travelfish.org. Not interested anymore? [Unsubscribe Instantly](. Make sure you're getting our emails! 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