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The Bite: Nothing beats Nana's mac and cheese

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salon.com

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Sun, Mar 3, 2024 03:00 PM

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Don't mess with perfection One of my earliest food memories — and earliest memories in general

Don't mess with perfection [View in browser](~/AASU4wA~/RgRnxxWJP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9hLnBvc3QubGhkLmxpbmsvZ2Eyamg0bHNoMS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1rN3ltN2c0bGZ0VwNzcGNCCmXiipDkZaoQgupSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) One of my earliest food memories — and earliest memories in general — is sitting at the dining room table in my [Nana’s](~/AASU4wA~/RgRnxxWJP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9hLnBvc3QubGhkLmxpbmsvcDB6b2k4N3JsZS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1rN3ltN2c0bGZ0JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmXiipDkZaoQgupSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) apartment, barely able to see over the table, where a jaw-dropping amount of food is spread out in front of me. I couldn’t have been older than five. My parents, my [Nana](~/AASU4wA~/RgRnxxWJP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9hLnBvc3QubGhkLmxpbmsvc2hncWZheGhzZS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1rN3ltN2c0bGZ0JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmXiipDkZaoQgupSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) and other relatives are boisterous, chatting and laughing while serving up heaping amounts of the two side-by-side dishes that make up the piece de resistance: my Nana’s macaroni and cheese, and alongside, the same elbow noodles, but instead draped in [her tomato sauce](~/AASU4wA~/RgRnxxWJP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9hLnBvc3QubGhkLmxpbmsvNmJnaWV0aXBidi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1rN3ltN2c0bGZ0JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmXiipDkZaoQgupSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). Both dishes were baked just slightly, until the edges were barely crisped but the middle remained soft and rich. It was a formative moment in my [grasp of food and cooking](~/AASU4wA~/RgRnxxWJP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9hLnBvc3QubGhkLmxpbmsvNHpubXczYXdjYy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1rN3ltN2c0bGZ0JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmXiipDkZaoQgupSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) at large, as well as my understanding of family, as each person dove right into their food, eating both variations with vigor. There was also meatloaf on the table, which has always been the de facto pairing with my Nana’s (and my mom’s) traditional macaroni and cheese, which we’ve eaten a few times per year in the subsequent 30 years. It’s reliable, dependable comfort food in its purest essence. In my household, "macaroni and meatloaf" are inextricable, akin to "peanut butter and jelly" or other immutable pairings. You just don't mess with that combination.~/AASU4wA~/RgRnxxWJP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9hLnBvc3QubGhkLmxpbmsvejV6NG53cWg1ai8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1rN3ltN2c0bGZ0JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmXiipDkZaoQgupSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~[Read more (and get the recipe) from Michael La Corte.Â](~/AASU4wA~/RgRnxxWJP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9hLnBvc3QubGhkLmxpbmsvbjg5MWpvYWdiYy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1rN3ltN2c0bGZ0JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmXiipDkZaoQgupSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) ~/AASU4wA~/RgRnxxWJP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9hLnBvc3QubGhkLmxpbmsvaTgzZmh0bTFhcS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1rN3ltN2c0bGZ0VwNzcGNCCmXiipDkZaoQgupSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~~/AASU4wA~/RgRnxxWJP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9hLnBvc3QubGhkLmxpbmsvejl4Z3lsZG9naS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1rN3ltN2c0bGZ0VwNzcGNCCmXiipDkZaoQgupSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~~/AASU4wA~/RgRnxxWJP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9hLnBvc3QubGhkLmxpbmsvYTNqOXZlZ2gzdy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1rN3ltN2c0bGZ0VwNzcGNCCmXiipDkZaoQgupSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~~/AASU4wA~/RgRnxxWJP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9hLnBvc3QubGhkLmxpbmsvbDg2ZGE2Mm1ici8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1rN3ltN2c0bGZ0VwNzcGNCCmXiipDkZaoQgupSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~ Dispatches from Salon Food's archives [Subscribe to Salon today](~/AASU4wA~/RgRnxxWJP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9hLnBvc3QubGhkLmxpbmsvbXpiNTNvNzlsdi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1rN3ltN2c0bGZ0JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmXiipDkZaoQgupSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) and unlock more benefits! 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