The Bite (Issue 97): "Bake Off" is back

And we've got thoughts [View in browser](~/AASU4wA~/RgRm_COZP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbTViOHI5Y213eC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1tYjNwdGtkZnNlVwNzcGNCCmUUnJ4ZZXfPDLRSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) “The Great British Bake Off” is officially back and every Saturday on Salon Food you’ll be able to read recaps by yours truly. I wanted to share a short (spoiler-free!) excerpt of the first review here with readers of The Bite, our weekly food newsletter. I hope you’ve had a weekend of successful bakes, non-curdled buttercream and good bits. I’ll see you next week in the tents. — Ashlie Stevens, food editor *** I suspected that “[The Great British Bake Off](~/AASU4wA~/RgRm_COZP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMva2Z6OTd5NXBqbS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1tYjNwdGtkZnNlJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmUUnJ4ZZXfPDLRSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)” was finally back to prime saucy form when a series of events led judge[Prue Leith](~/AASU4wA~/RgRm_COZP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZTljdXN6enBjMC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1tYjNwdGtkZnNlJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmUUnJ4ZZXfPDLRSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)to have to diplomatically invite a contestant to describe their creation by saying, “So, Nicky, tell us about your beaver” as the tent erupted into tittering laughter. My suspicions were confirmed when, just a few minutes later, the delightful new host Allison Hammond cooly remarked that while Nicky’s may have looked amazing, unfortunately “no one likes a dry beaver.” It’s been a [rocky few seasons for the series](~/AASU4wA~/RgRm_COZP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZmJreHdxZWdnay8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1tYjNwdGtkZnNlJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmUUnJ4ZZXfPDLRSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) that became known as, essentially, televised comfort food, a reputation that was well-earned because it was so distinct from so much contemporary food competition programming; while “[Food Network](~/AASU4wA~/RgRm_COZP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMveHJwbGFxMHgxMS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1tYjNwdGtkZnNlJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmUUnJ4ZZXfPDLRSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)” chefs were being asked to wander around kitchens blindfolded or whip up a multi-course meal with no utensils, over on “Bake Off” — stylized on Netflix for American viewers as “The Great British Baking Show” —things were always a little different. The pace was a little slower. Contestants had the opportunity to practice their bakes beforehand and came in relatively prepared. More importantly, however, was the tone of the show. No one was [screaming or back-biting](~/AASU4wA~/RgRm_COZP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdjd0MTQ5NGthZy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1tYjNwdGtkZnNlJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmUUnJ4ZZXfPDLRSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) or calling someone an “[idiot sandwich](~/AASU4wA~/RgRm_COZP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbXM4MDFpNGF5My8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1tYjNwdGtkZnNlVwNzcGNCCmUUnJ4ZZXfPDLRSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~).” “Bake Off,” as a rule, was pretty much a jerk-free zone, which was one of the reasons it was disappointing to so many fans that, through a series of[host shake-ups](~/AASU4wA~/RgRm_COZP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdDdxaTZyMzdjNy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1tYjNwdGtkZnNlJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmUUnJ4ZZXfPDLRSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) and controversies, the show seemed to lose its focus, a point of view that was really crystalized amid the outcry over the series’ poorly executed and[xenophobic internationally-themed weeks](~/AASU4wA~/RgRm_COZP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvM2F6YjA5eGkzOC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1tYjNwdGtkZnNlJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmUUnJ4ZZXfPDLRSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). At its core, “Bake Off” is a show about good people in good knitwear getting together to bake, do bits and, when the occasion calls for it, trade in some light baking-themed banter and sexual innuendo. With the return of the show’s 14th season (“Collection 11” on Netflix), we’re back to the basics and it feels so good. The premiere episode opens on a quick sketch called “The Breadfather.” Judge Paul Hollywood sits behind a massive desk — cheeks packed with dough balls — doing his best [Don Corleone](~/AASU4wA~/RgRm_COZP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvcGgxanQ3dDl1Mi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1tYjNwdGtkZnNlJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmUUnJ4ZZXfPDLRSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) as series co-host Noel Fielding, dressed in his best Spirit Halloween gangster costume, announces they have a new member to “welcome to the family.” This is our very brief introduction to Hammond, a British presenter and reality television veteran who got her start back in the early 2000s on “Big Brother” and went on to host everything from the BAFTAs to ITV’s “This Morning.” We don’t get to see a ton of her in this episode, but her palpable charisma and general ease around the contestants is a joy to watch, especially as they embark on their first challenge of the season: a vertical layer cake made by stacking layers of perfectly moist, yet rollable sponge cakes. To read the rest of the recap, spoilers and all, [click here.](~/AASU4wA~/RgRm_COZP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbm0ybzYzZDhxci8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1tYjNwdGtkZnNlJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmUUnJ4ZZXfPDLRSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) Help keep Salon independent — [become a member today](~/AASU4wA~/RgRm_COZP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNGE2bmswOWtxcy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1tYjNwdGtkZnNlJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmUUnJ4ZZXfPDLRSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) and unlock more benefits! 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