The Bite (Issue 90): Worth turning on the oven

Shrimp, sourdough and snack plates [View in browser](~/AASU4wA~/RgRmn_2_P0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdmRjeG82bzQ1cS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1uZmNxeXRjbWQwVwNzcGNCCmS2v3i9ZMuI6fxSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) Typically, I’m an ardent member of the “no stoves, no ovens” club during the summer, but this last week I stumbled into a few recipes where it was actually worth it to turn up the heat in the kitchen —at least a little bit. So grab a spritz (or one of[innumerable spritz-adjacent beverages](~/AASU4wA~/RgRmn_2_P0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvOXVxdThrdzN5bC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1uZmNxeXRjbWQwJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmS2v3i9ZMuI6fxSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)) and come on. We can go back to no-bake-everything next week. Coconut milk shrimp and corn with toasted sourdough This was the most stove-intensive meal of my week, but it still required relatively little time over heat. I had some leftover tail-on cocktail shrimp in the refrigerator and — after reading [Maggie Hennessy’s recipe for smoked shell-on shrimp](~/AASU4wA~/RgRmn_2_P0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvY2xrYW5jMmdmZy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1uZmNxeXRjbWQwJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmS2v3i9ZMuI6fxSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) — I knew I wanted to prepare them with a little smoke and a lot of acid. Pre-cooked shrimp are great for making easy meals, but they can get tough quickly if kept over high heat for too long, so I scanned my fridge for other quick-cooking ingredients. I grabbed some [fresh corn](~/AASU4wA~/RgRmn_2_P0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdTlkaXVvaW5heS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1uZmNxeXRjbWQwJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmS2v3i9ZMuI6fxSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), scallions and half a red bell pepper, which I diced and placed in a pan with a healthy glug of olive oil and [some spices](~/AASU4wA~/RgRmn_2_P0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvemx6OG9iZ2xjbi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1uZmNxeXRjbWQwJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmS2v3i9ZMuI6fxSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~): red pepper flakes, smoked paprika, cumin, coriander, turmeric and fennel seeds. Once the vegetables were softened, I added the shrimp to the pan along with a splash of [non-alcoholic beer](~/AASU4wA~/RgRmn_2_P0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMWw2dzZ2Z2o4aS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1uZmNxeXRjbWQwJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmS2v3i9ZMuI6fxSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (I just happened to have a pack of Upside Dawn by Athletic Brewing Co. in my fridge). Once that was reduced down just a bit, I added half a can of coconut milk to the mix and let it simmer. Meanwhile, I put a sourdough loaf rubbed with olive oil into the oven to toast up. In all, my stove was on for about ten minutes before I ladled the shrimp and corn into bowls and served it with lime slices and hunks of bread. Berries with whipped cream and cornbread crumbs It was about 11 p.m. on Tuesday when I realized the night was progressing in such a way that I would want a midnight snack, so I made this dessert which is shamelessly inspired by [Alison Roman’s berries and cream](~/AASU4wA~/RgRmn_2_P0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaXRlM242aW4yci8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1uZmNxeXRjbWQwVwNzcGNCCmS2v3i9ZMuI6fxSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). Her version is supremely simple — made by spooning macerated raspberries over a dollop of unsweetened sour cream. I had only a small spoonful of Mexican crema, but I did have a full carton of heavy whipping cream and a [plastic carton of strawberries](~/AASU4wA~/RgRmn_2_P0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMzcwa2pwZ2VscS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1uZmNxeXRjbWQwJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmS2v3i9ZMuI6fxSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). I sliced those up, covered them in sugar and then left them to sit. While the berries were softening and sweetening, I whipped the crema, cream and a little bit of orange zest until it had stiff peaks. I left that to chill. While not part of AR’s recipe, I scrounged around for something crispy or crunchy — nuts, cookies, etcetera — to use as a garnish, but came up short. I did, however, find a box of cornbread muffin mix, so I decided sweet, toasted cornbread (made by tossing some mix in a greased ramekin with olive oil, more orange zest, a splash of whipping cream and a little sugar) would be a pretty excellent addition. After about ten minutes in the oven, the cornbread was ready, so I crumbled it over a parfait glass filled with strawberries and the citrus whipped cream. Snack plate with sourdough I’m not sure if the youth of TikTok would consider this a [“girl dinner,”](~/AASU4wA~/RgRmn_2_P0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZjV3ajBwbGVleS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1uZmNxeXRjbWQwVwNzcGNCCmS2v3i9ZMuI6fxSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)but I — a girl grown older — did eat some variation of this plate for dinner at least three evenings this week. It included a changing combination of cheese, smoked meats, olives, nuts, jam, aioli, butter and crisp vegetables. The only non-negotiable was some more of that sourdough, toasted until warm and crisp in the oven. Necessary? No. Worth heating up the oven? Absolutely (especially when topped with a little smoked salmon and citrus compound butter). If you found yourself here without subscribing, make sure to sign up for [The Bite](~/AASU4wA~/RgRmn_2_P0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvOTZ1NmY3OTNpNS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1uZmNxeXRjbWQwVwNzcGNCCmS2v3i9ZMuI6fxSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) so you don't miss anything! 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