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The Bite (Issue 66): Your toast deserves coffee butter

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salon.com

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Sat, Jan 21, 2023 01:02 PM

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On joy and espresso powder If you have spent any time on Twitter, you’ll know that the social m

On joy and espresso powder [View in browser](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvcGV4ZzFpdWw3eS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) If you have spent any time on Twitter, you’ll know that the social media platform has a contentious relationship with sincerity. Where [Facebook](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdGgwNHB6cmN2Ny8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) has the humble-brag and[Instagram](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvb2Q4dzA1YW4yOC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) an endless stream of curated images, Twitter has the phrase “Sorry for being sincere on main.” The implication being, of course, that real feelings — the good, the bad, but especially the sappy — belong in group chats and therapy sessions, rather than on the timeline for anyone and everyone to see. Coming into this new year, which also happens to be my [last one in my 20s](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvcTVzc2d1dGJrbS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), I’ve been thinking a lot about that phrase and the accompanying sentiment. Like a lot of folks who weren’t particularly cool kids, I think my definition of “cool” for a very long time was a kind of wry detachment that I was never particularly good at embodying (think Natasha Lyonne’s character from “[Russian Doll](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZ2p5c2FkMGVwei8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)” before her first death experience). While didn’t stop me from trying, let me tell you, there’s nothing that will jade you before your time like losing your ability truly embrace simple pleasures — even the ones deemed [irredeemably pedestrian](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdXV1bjIzdmwyNC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) or basic by the culture at large — without irony. That’s one of the reasons that I knew one of my few resolutions for the upcoming year would be to simply recognize moments of sincere joy as they occurred, no matter how small or seemingly insignificant. As someone whose life often [revolves around food](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvc3ZyNWlmMmthNS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), it’s no surprise that many of those moments so far have happened in the kitchen. A recent one occurred on an unseasonably sunny day about a week ago. I had just walked home from a [cute bakery](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMHd0Znh1eDJzcS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) I’ve started visiting about once a week. I had bought fresh [espresso powder](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvOTRlemNuc3V2Yi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), a loaf of mascarpone milk bread and a little pot of [good salted butter](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMmtqYmluamozdC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). Something compelled me to find a way to combine the three ingredients, so I whipped a few tablespoons of the butter with a few teaspoons of espresso powder, a spoonful of very hot water and a healthy [drizzle of honey](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvejVwaWRhMmYxdi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), mixing until it was smooth and the color of pale caramel. I toasted the bread and coated two thick slices with the sweet coffee compound butter. I almost scolded myself for gilding the lily when I reached for a few flakes of[craggy sea salt](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMzMzcjBieXJwOS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)to finish the dish, but I realized this was one of those moments of very sincere pleasure — and bit into a piece of sweet, salted toast instead. Coffee compound butter Ingredients 4 tablespoons of softened, salted butter 1 to 2 teaspoons of espresso powder, to taste 1 ½ teaspoons of hot water Honey to taste (my drizzle was probably a generous ½ tablespoon) Directions Using a fork, whisk or hand-mixer, combine the ingredients until completely cohesive. Spread on toast and, if desired, finish with a sprinkle of salt. This week in The Bite, Salon Food’s weekly newsletter, I’m going to be sharing a few recipes and stories that have brought me as much joy as the simple recipe above — Ashlie Stevens, deputy food editor Dispatches from Salon Food's archives - [The nourishing joy of simmered whole chicken](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvcGU1MXN1amYyaC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Enjoy your breakfast as Europeans do — slathered in butter and showered in chocolate](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZGdxOHRpODMxcC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Poached or painted: A closer look at how eggs became a complex motif in countless works of art](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMGR1ZGMzNGhidi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Every time I eat tuna, I’m honoring my father](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZHMydGFrc2F2ci8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Cocoa, pecans and cinnamon: These Creole praline cookies are packed with dessert-worthy flavors](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvc2N3ems1cDlpNi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) If you found yourself here without subscribing, make sure to sign up for [The Bite](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvY2F2ejQ5ZzJ6Zi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) so you don't miss anything! What to make for dinner this weekend Since reading Michael La Corte’s [essay about vodka sauce](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvM3N4dzFnYnZ4MS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), I have been looking forward to making the accompanying recipe and I think this is the right weekend for it. It seems like the ideal comfort meal for a potentially snowy Saturday night. To complete the meal, I’m eying Mary Elizabeth Williams’[quick and dirty tiramisu](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvajhxZ3duMThmdC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). From our writers - [A tiny gingerbread house got listed on Zillow for 31 days, and the price felt all too real](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNTN5cnhqdHczay8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Erin Keane) - [8 questions about cheese and cheesemaking, answered by a famous cheese taster and judge](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvcXhjdDVra3Vjdi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Michael La Corte) - [TikTok’s viral — and infamous — Pink Sauce is now available at Walmart](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvOWJ0ZHpjajJ1NC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Joy Saha) - [Trader Joe's 11 best vegan snacks being sold right now](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZzVlNWk4NXpwMi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)(Michael La Corte) - [The case for queso: US-based cheesemakers prepare for a Mexican cheese boom](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvOHBsZGN3NG9kcy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) - [Mark Bittman's bubbling "nachos in reverse" are a cheesy dinner dream](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMm1qdzNjczEyZy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Mary Elizabeth Williams) - [Cooking with Jamie Oliver is cheap, easy — and requires only one pan](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMXg3NnZ4aHl1ei8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Mary Elizabeth Williams) - [Wayback Burgers asks Prince Harry to shut up with its new “Royal Silencer” burger](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMXU5NHZvMWZ6di8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Joy Saha) - [I tried Reddit's viral, creamy, tortellini-packed "The Soup" — and it was totally worth it](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbjV5cmhibWJ0cy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) What we're reading - [Kroger Union files class action lawsuit alleging widespread wage theft](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvcmM2bnRua3lmZi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (WSET) - [Annoyed by Restaurant Playlists, a Master Musician Made His Own](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMndudGRsanlsbi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD1obXEzb2toMnNyVwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (New York Times) [Unsubscribe from this list](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0Q8aHR0cHM6Ly9yZWFkLmxldHRlcmhlYWQuZW1haWwvdGhlLWJpdGUvdW5zdWJzY3JpYmU_aWQ9QDM0NTA5VwNzcGNCCmPI4-HLY1EgczNSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) Copyright © 2023 The Bite, All rights reserved. 1000 N. West Street, Suite 1200, Wilmington, DE 19801 [Made with Letterhead [Letterhead logo]](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlrmbjP0QiaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbmVwbm83czh5c1cDc3BjQgpjyOPhy2NRIHMzUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)

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