The Bite (Issue 65): I made Reddit's viral "The Soup"

and it was totally worth the hype [View in browser](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMG1tcXp4MWM3eC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) The past few years have brought us several viral [soups](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdjd6am83ZXJtay8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). There was New Yorker writer Helen Rosner’s “[Roberto](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbHZnMWluZjFmZC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~),” a soup that she developed now nine or ten years ago, made by “sautéing some onion and garlic with a few links of spicy Italian sausage, dumping in a can of [white beans](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvOXN5cHoydW90dC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) and a can of crushed tomatoes, adding a few cups of chicken stock, and stirring in a fistful of torn [kale](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZDFieXpuNGtueS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~).” “The result was good, but not quite good enough, so in went a flurry of grated Parmesan, for savory depth, and a shower of lemon juice, to lend some tart, shimmery brightness,” Rosner [wrote for the New Yorker](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvYm4yaGl4aHRmNS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) in January 2020. “Almost no individual element of this was original—beans and greens have been the stuff of dinner since [beans and greens began](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvN2MwZzNseXgxaC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)—and yet the gestalt had something to it, something unexpectedly right.” Rosner initially wrote about Roberto in a personal newsletter that only went out to a few hundred subscribers, but amid the pandemic, as more and more of us were [cooking at home](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvcWh2ZXVqd3M1by8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) and documenting that effort, Roberto gained worldwide popularity thanks to soup fans making and sharing their riffs on the versatile recipe. Several months later, Alison Roman’s internet-famous New York Time’s recipe for [Spiced Chickpea Stew With Coconut and Turmeric](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaTd1OXpoYXhtYy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (which some argued was actually a curry and [should have been labeled as such](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNzFib2s2YTcybC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)as a deserved acknowledgement of culinary traditions that aren’t Roman’s own) went viral yet again thanks to its usage of [pantry staples](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaXhxbHNlbjIwbS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)like coconut milk and canned chickpeas.  “The Stew” became shorthand for the recipe; now, when you search [#TheStew on Instagram](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvenduem84azBzOC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), you’ll be presented with nearly 10,000 nearly identical images of bowls filled with golden-yellow chickpeas topped with dollops of creamy yogurt and chopped cilantro. While some recipes that have seen surging popularity on social media aren’t necessarily worth the hype (like, ahem, [Mississippi pot roast](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvYnEyM3M4dDl6Mi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)), most soups are very good for the reason that both Rosner and Roman’s recipes are objectively very good: the right combination of ingredients becomes so much greater than the sum of their parts with just a little heat and time. That’s why I have to admit I was pretty optimistic about trying yet another viral soup — a tortellini and tomato-packed number that has now been ceremoniously dubbed “The Soup” by Reddit users over the several weeks. The r/slowcooking subreddit is currently packed with posts titled “[Finally made The Soup — you guys weren’t kidding, it’s so good](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvYTc2eXFibGQwNS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~),” “[the soup lived up to all the hype 10/10](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvcnE1OWZ6aTJpci8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)” and “[Obligatory ‘The soup’ post. Thank you this sub for recommending](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaDc2NnZ6b3RkMC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)!” “The Soup” was originally published on the food blog [365 Days of Slow and Pressure Cooking](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaGxuYm9nbGJ1OS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)in October 2017 as [Slow Cooker Creamy Tortellini, Spinach and Chicken Soup](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZGcxbmNldXl0eC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). “You guys, this is a soup that you absolutely have to try,” recipe developer Karen Bellessa Petersen wrote. “It is so super good. For reals! You are going to love it. It’s like a creamy tomato soup with cheesy tortellini and chicken and then a pop of color from the bright green spinach.” Petersen’s version is made in a slow cooker or[Instant Pot](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNHdxbXJ2eG02ZC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)and calls for a simple list of ingredients, some of which you may already have in your pantry: tomato paste, canned diced tomatoes, chopped yellow onion, garlic, dried basil,[chicken thighs](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMDg3Z2tmNDlrbS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), spinach, cream or half-and-half and — arguably the most important addition — frozen cheese tortellini. After a total of three to six hours in the slow cooker (or until the chicken is “very tender”), a relatively hands-off dinner is served. As I mentioned, Petersen’s recipe is designed for slow cooker or Instant Pot cooking. I feel like I’m one of the few folks out there who have neither appliance; I gave my brother my Instant Pot after it sat unused on my countertop and I’m currently in the market for a small slow cooker, mostly so I can make soup, ironically. So, I just used my handy [Dutch oven](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdWM0djQ0Zml6ci8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) for the hours of necessary simmering. Petersen’s version of “The Soup” also starts with a “microwave roux,” made by combining the chopped onions, flour, dried basil, garlic tomato paste and olive oil in a microwave-safe bowl and then nuking it for five minutes, stirring every 90 seconds or so. Since I was going to be using my stovetop to cook anyways, I simply made a normal roux for thickening the soup. Finally, like many very good soups, “The Soup” is pretty riffable. I swapped in fresh basil for dried, [fresh tomatoes](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaWd6NnF3OHN1ci8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) for canned, and used bone-in and skin-on chicken thighs instead of boneless and skinless; all these decisions were made simply because these were the ingredients I already had in my kitchen. I simply popped it on the stove right before lunch and by the time dinner rolled around, I had a really fresh-tasting, but decadent meal waiting for me. Initially, I just garnished it with some shaved Parm and parsley for a little extra pop of verdance (as pictured above), but then I remembered that I had a new jar of red pepper flakes and some toasty croutons in my pantry — both of which definitely made it into my bowl. “If I could eat this soup every day this winter, I would be happy,” Petersen wrote of her recipe. After trying it, I have to say that I’m inclined to agree. — Ashlie Stevens, deputy food editor Dispatches from Salon Food's archives - [This cheesy, no-tear French onion soup is ready in under 30 minutes](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbmI5enRpMzIzYi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Cozy up to this new chicken and wild mushroom stew with schmaltzy croutons](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaWgwZWYyeW1oay8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [You're only 3 ingredients and 10 minutes away from the herbiest bean soup ever](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMveHB5aXh4aTM3dS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Upgrade your chicken soup with pillowy Italian gnocchi for extra comfort when it's cold outside](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvYTlpbGNwdXFjNS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Store an extra pot of this tomato basil soup for a cold winter day](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZmR3aDVvd2dhaC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Inspired by Los Cabos: Enjoy this mildly-spicy tortilla soup with a deep tomato flavor](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvc2g0b3E2eHBnNC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) If you found yourself here without subscribing, make sure to sign up for [The Bite](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMveHd4YXg4Z21wYS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) so you don't miss anything! What to make for dinner this weekend Let’s say that you are in the mood for a comforting meal, but want something a little more substantial than a bowl of soup. If that’s the case, check out[Molly Yeh's cozy "totdish,”](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZGphNWNhcHowbC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) a midwestern classic with a modern twist. As Salon’s Mary Elizabeth Williams [wrote](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlpSxdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNzNjdmY5aGEyby8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD13dzZ4dWR4dmttJmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO1XqfCY6fKpitSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), “Traditional hotdish typically involves canned soup along with meat, a vegetable and some form of starch. Yeh's version stays true to its convenience food roots but relies on a speedy homemade sauce.” Much like a good pot of soup, Yeh’s totdish is pretty riffable. Raid your pantry and freezer and see what you can make. 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