The Bite (Issue 64): Let's talk about microwave cooking

Plus, crab delights! [View in browser](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvM2M5dmJ1am01OC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3VwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) Typically when I put together a grocery list for the week, I’m pulling from at least a couple new-to-me recipes that have been sitting on my “To Make” list. A few weeks ago it was [Alison Roman’s matzo ball soup](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZ2J3MnBhMzY3Yi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3VwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) and Melissa Kelly’s classic [Swiss cheese fondue](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbnRyYzRoMXFsbS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3VwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). Last week, I eyed Christina Chaey’s[Japanese Curry With Winter Squash and Mushrooms](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvenlzNzZyd3ZzdC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3VwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). But as I put together a grocery list for next week, I’m consulting a few different sources: “[The Cook-Zen Cookbook: Microwave Cooking the Japanese Way](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvemI2anB4NjVnZS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3VwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)” by Machiko Chiba, “[Southern Spice A La Microwave](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdWR0cXVmdmN6Zy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3VwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)” by Marjorie Brignac and “[Microwave Gourmet](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNWJ0eWh6dnhyMS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3VwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)” by Barbara Kafka. Yep — next week is completely devoted to microwave cooking. Last January, [I committed to cooking one meal a day using my new air fryer](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvOW9zZW96aWNveS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) for a work week. While I was initially a little skeptical of jumping on the air fryer train — especially since it was, like, three years after their peak popularity — I had some decent successes, including some beautiful smoked tofu and exceptionally crispy chickpeas. However, while my main initial objection to buying an air fryer was dedicating limited counter space to something I was concerned would languish as a possible “unitasker,” my feelings towards [microwave cooking](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdG16czFsbmVkdC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) are a little more complicated. As Helen Rosner wrote in 2021 for [The New Yorker](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvc3Y3MDEzcGV5ai8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3VwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), Barbara Kafka, the food editor at Vogue and the author of the aforementioned “Microwave Gourmet,” was once a self-described “microwave snob.” Among her sophisticated friends, Kakfa wrote, news of her microwave-centered project “would have had a better reception had I announced my intention of going down to Times Square at 3:00 PM to take my clothes off.” I’m a little ashamed to admit that I’ve definitely harbored similar feelings towards the microwave. Popping something in the microwave hasn’t historically felt like “real cooking” to me; instead, it was reminiscent of sad Lean Cuisine meals and reheated, burnt newsroom [coffee](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNjl5MXc2NDM2ay8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). But I’ve had two recent conversations about microwaves that have made me rethink my stance a bit. The first was with my youngest brother who is about a year into college and getting a little sick of cafeteria food. However, his dorm is apparently pretty strict about allowing no “cooking appliances” other than a mini-fridge and a microwave. He’s got a decent handle on some basics — like microwave rice with some scrambled eggs and hot sauce — but when he asked me for other suggestions of things that could actually be “cooked” in the microwave as opposed to reheated, I kind of drew a blank. “Isn’t telling me what to cook literally part of your job?” he jokingly asked. Then after returning to work after the holiday weekend, I was chatting with the Salon Food team and one of my coworkers was talking about topics to cover in the New Year. Microwave cooking came up not once, but twice. It seemed like fate. So starting next week, I’m going to be attempting to cook at least once quality meal from my microwave each day. I’ve decided on a few rules to guide the project: - While garnishes and raw ingredients obviously don’t have to be microwaved, every other component of the meal has to be prepared in the microwave. Stoves, ovens and air fryers aren’t allowed. - No pre-made meals are allowed, though convenience ingredients (like instant rice or oatmeal) are. - Each meal should include a protein, a grain and at least one fruit or vegetable. Have any suggestions for inspiration or technique? What are your favorite things to actually cook in your microwave? Let me know at [astevens@salon.com](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdDFtMGlnYjYxcC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) — Ashlie Stevens, deputy food editor Dispatches from Salon Food's archives - [Frozen food and feminism: Matt Gaetz's dog whistle about microwave meals isn't new](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMXBpcjZjZDU3bC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Should you make Stephen King's viral microwave salmon recipe for dinner? An expert weighs in](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvemNwODF1d2Fuci8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Hot food, fast: The home microwave oven turns 50](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvY2lhcXg3aWRjdC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [I ditched my microwave three years ago and never looked back](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMva2E0eG84eHJjbS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) If you found yourself here without subscribing, make sure to sign up for [The Bite](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbHVsdTd6OHpsNy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3VwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) so you don't miss anything! What to make for dinner this weekend Since my week of microwave cooking hasn’t started quite yet, I’ve had my eye on [Maggie Hennessy’s retro-chic crab delights](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdmU2dmp0czhmNC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), made by combining crab meat, fresh herbs and a decadent spoonful of cheese sauce; this spread is divvied up among English muffin halves before being broiled until bronzed and bubbling. Hennessy recommends serving these al fresco with a good drink. Good thing I still have some [champagne](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMzJ3bDN2NTk2eC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) on hand from last weekend. From our writers - [Cardi B shares expletive-laced PSA about rising grocery prices](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdTZpd2UyNjF5dS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Joy Saha) - [Martha Stewart's unusual technique for tenderizing meat is surprisingly perfect for Dry January](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvcWdmc2o1aHE1bC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Michael La Corte) - [James "Buster" Corley, the remaining co-founder of Dave & Buster's, has died](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMveWVudngwdzNyei8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) - [Crumbl Cookies, the popular bakery franchise, violated child labor laws in 6 states](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMveTJqbW42aWJzei8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Joy Saha) - ["One nation united under pasta": How the "discovery of pasta" shaped Italy](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdDd3MzY3ZDgxMS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Luca Cesari) - ["Hot girl food": How food porn changed in 2022](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvM3N6ejRtOXJnYy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) - [5 of our favorite cookbooks to carry you into 2023](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlm_HdP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvamYxeTNqNnUxZi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD12MWIybm56bWN3JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmO13my5Y85ruOtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) - [Should "food diaries" be assigned in schools? 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