The Bite (Issue 63): Why do we drink champagne on New Year's Eve?

Plus, it's appetizer season Earlier this week, I stopped into my local[wine shop](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvOGJtZGE2dnVtby8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) to pick up something[bubbly](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvYWR3czkyZmp4ZS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)for the weekend. Typically in the winter, my tastes tend to veer more towards bold, oaky red wines, but, as I texted my partner, “the New Year calls for champagne.” As soon as I hit send, I looked up and realized that I wasn’t alone in the [sparkling wine](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbHp1bG4zemc2ei8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) aisle — far from it, in fact. Dozens of shoppers were huddling around bottles of Dom Pérignon and gently pushing towards the end cap display of Veuve Clicquot. Here we all were, purchasing the exact same kind of beverage to imbibe on the exact same night and I’d never before stopped to wonder why. The correlation between[toasting champagne](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvaDIyc3NuZ25sdS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)and celebrating the advent of a new year in the United States can be traced back to early New Year’s celebrations, but as the[Tiverton Historical Society](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvd3JpZWt2bnk3ay8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6VwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) has written, in the Colonial period, a different drink was associated with New Year’s Eve. At the time, young ladies would get together, prepare a large bowl of wassail — a [heated, spiced ale](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMva3pvcHJhazRicC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) — and carry it from house to house, sharing the [warm drink](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMzUzdmI4aWlrOC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)with their neighbors, and receiving small gifts in return. “This was called ‘wassailing,’” they wrote. “The name comes from the Middle English, waes and haeil, meaning ‘health to you.’ The drink consisted of mulled (heated) cider or ale, with sugar, ginger, [cinnamon](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdmg2ZWlzcXV4dC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), and other spices mixed in.” However, it wasn’t until the 1800s that staying up until midnight, when church bells would sound and some would shoot firearms, became a common practice for the holiday. Simultaneously, champagne’s reputation as a celebratory beverage had already been cemented overseas. In France, the sparkling beverage, which was popularized by Benedictine monk [Dom Perignon](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvcWo4cXZwYzZrYy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6VwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), was used to toast royal coronations, diplomatic meetings, the signing of major treaties and, in 1790, the Fete de la Federation, an event held in honor of the French Revolution. As such champagne began to be associated with luxury; it was a beverage that gained major traction as an aspirational product. As Kolleen Guy wrote in “[When Champagne Became French: Wine and Making of a National Identity](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvN2hwengzYXhuYy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6VwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~),” there is a record of “one observer [who] noted in 1881 that the increased use of champagne at festive gatherings was ‘a charming fashion’ that is beginning to be more common.” According to [Imbibe Magazine](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdDkwbTMwaDdneS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6VwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), as the Industrial Revolution catalyzed the idea of an American middle class, sales of sparkling wine soared from 6 million bottles in 1850 to 28 million by 1900. In 1902, two French brothers named Jean and Louis Martin opened Café Martin, which was well situated between Fifth Avenue and Broadway. It catered, specifically, to the American upper class and according to records, only sold champagne after 9 p.m., which only further cemented the beverage’s reputation as being synonymous with luxury. “To get a table at all on New Year’s Eve is difficult,” wrote a visitor in 1910, “when you get one you must drink what you are told.” According to[The American Menu](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNTMzOHg2d29tOC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6VwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) archives, a 1903 Café Martin menu advertised 69 champagnes; it was aggressively promoted at late-night suppers and celebrations. This wasn’t just to foster a jovial environment. “Waiters saved the corks in order to get a kickback from the wine importers for each bottle they sold,” the publication reported. “After major holidays, the newspapers reported the amount of Champagne sold at the leading restaurants and hotels.” It continued: “On New Year's Eve, restaurants often displayed ‘Champagne only’ signs to insure its consumption.” Through time the “champagne only” ethos has continued to saturate the holiday; according to data collected by [WalletHub](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbHJrc2pxNjAxMC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6VwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), 360 million glasses of sparkling wine are consumed in the U.S. each New Year’s Eve, though cheaper alternatives like Prosecco and cava are increasingly popular. I can toast to that. In this issue of The Bite, Salon Food’s weekly newsletter, I’m sharing some of my favorite celebratory drink recipes — just in case a simple glass of bubbly won’t do. — Ashlie Stevens, deputy food editor. Dispatches from Salon Food's archives - [How to make a perfect Air Mail cocktail at home — all you need are four ingredients](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvOWtmOWJyYW1lcS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [How to make a Silver Gin Fizz, the simple and delicious cocktail you need in your repertoire](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvcGw1bnQwaDFmOC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Making an almost-perfect Boulevardier is just the beginning](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvdWJuamZheThkYy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [How to make a perfect French 75, the gin cocktail with the welcome effervescence of sparkling wine](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvOXlzeTV1dHF0dS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [How to make a Gold Rush, a bourbon cocktail that's reminiscent of the classics](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvOTE2dWx3Y3Y2di8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) If you found yourself here without subscribing, make sure to sign up for [The Bite](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvYjg2ZWdscGlvYS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6VwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) so you don't miss anything! What to make for dinner this weekend Earlier this week, we adopted a new dog — a 4-year-old dachshund named Otto — which means that my New Year’s Eve plans have changed a little bit. Instead of going out, we’re going to stay in to make sure he feels at home. Growing up, my parents didn’t drink, so New Years Eve shifted into a holiday centered around [Super Bowl-style appetizers](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNzBuaDBxenVzYS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) rather than champagne. While I will likely have some bubbly, too, I’m thinking about creating my own appetizer spread, starting with some of the recipes suggested by my colleagues [here](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvb3V4eWg1djhvdy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), including hot corn dip, queso and potentially some buffalo latkes? From our writers - [My year — and yours — of cooking Quick & Dirty](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNHkwZDNrNmoxNC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Mary Elizabeth Williams) - [From "The Bear" to "The Menu," this was the year pop culture faced the horrors of fine dining](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvb2luNWFjaTZuOC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) - [The 8 best beverages to buy at Costco](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvejA2cGZpaHp0ZS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Michael La Corte) - [Fried chicken, kakigōri and one very good waffle: The best meals Salon staffers ate in 2022](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZnlsNHEydXFjNy8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) - [5 foods that are traditionally eaten for luck in the New Year](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvN2U2OHdwbWZ4ci8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Joy Saha) - [Creamy, comforting and cheesy: Salon Food's 10 most popular recipes of 2022](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvamV5Znp4cGE0OC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Michael La Corte) - [Here’s how black-eyed peas became synonymous with New Year’s cooking](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvN3VkdzZkcWJobS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Joy Saha) - [Year of the mushroom: Why 2022 was defined by fungi](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNjQ5ZWQ3NzMxNi8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) - [Why Disneyland is Coke and Vegas is Pepsi](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RmaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvMXV5aW03bnZjMC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6JmxoX2VtPXRyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1JTQwZ21haWwuY29tVwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Mary Elizabeth Williams) What we're readying - [What Drink Trends Should Disappear in 2023](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNjFjaHl5cHkxOS8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6VwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)? (PUNCH) - [Naomi Duguid explores the ‘The Miracle of Salt’ in her new cookbook](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0RCaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvNXNjYmJiNmhoNC8_bGhfYWlkPTM0NTA5JmxoX2NpZD10dXZkeWFxaXd6VwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (The Washington Post) [Unsubscribe from this list](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0Q8aHR0cHM6Ly9yZWFkLmxldHRlcmhlYWQuZW1haWwvdGhlLWJpdGUvdW5zdWJzY3JpYmU_aWQ9QDM0NTA5VwNzcGNCCmOiXjKwYyRQ1JpSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) Copyright © 2022 The Bite, All rights reserved. 1000 N. West Street, Suite 1200, Wilmington, DE 19801 [Made with Letterhead [Letterhead logo]](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlkrddP0QiaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbmVwbm83czh5c1cDc3BjQgpjol4ysGMkUNSaUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)