The Bite (Issue 48): Finding joy in cooking

And why we all need a butter warmer [View in browser](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0QyaHR0cHM6Ly9yZWFkLmxldHRlcmhlYWQuZW1haWwvdGhlLWJpdGUvbGV0dGVyLzUwMzZXA3NwY0IKYyLqtiVjDsurhFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) When I first moved out on my own, I spent the first few years living in a string of rented studio apartments with[shoebox-sized galley kitchens](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0ReaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDEvMTcvc21hbGwta2l0Y2hlbi1jb29raW5nLXRpcHMtZnJvbS1hLWNhbXBlci1saXZpbmctY2hlZl9wYXJ0bmVyL1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~). Cooking in places with [minimal counter and storage space](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RJaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjAvMTEvMjUvY29va2luZy10aXBzLXNtYWxsLWtpdGNoZW4tb3JnYW5pemF0aW9uL1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) (and [one particularly wonky oven](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RqaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDkvMTUvdHVya2lzaC1lZ2dzLWFyZS10aGUtbW9zdC1nYXJsaWNreS1idXR0ZXJ5LXdheS1wb3NzaWJsZS10by1zdGFydC10aGUtZGF5L1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)) actually taught me a lot about the craft and provided me with some best practices I still regard as true: When cooking for a crowd, don’t make a menu in which everything has to cook using the same appliance; vertical storage is a kitchen’s best friend; and rolling bar carts are good for [more than just booze](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0SDaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDEvMjgvaG93LXRvLW1ha2UtYS1wZXJmZWN0LWZyZW5jaC03NS10aGUtZ2luLWNvY2t0YWlsLXdpdGgtdGhlLXdlbGNvbWUtZWZmZXJ2ZXNjZW5jZS1vZi1zcGFya2xpbmctd2luZS9XA3NwY0IKYyLqtiVjDsurhFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl). One belief that I’ve slowly dropped, however, was my long held conviction that cooking utensils should, largely, be completely utilitarian. Perhaps it was growing up hearing[Alton Brow](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RTaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjAvMDYvMjAvYWx0b24tYnJvd24tZ29vZC1lYXRzLWdyaWxsaW5nLXBhbnRyeS1zYWxvbi10YWxrcy9XA3NwY0IKYyLqtiVjDsurhFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl)n warn against pesky “[unitaskers](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RIaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjAvMDkvMDUvc29ycnktYWx0b24tYnJvd24taS1sb3ZlLW15LXVuaXRhc2tlcnMvVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)” or the real-world realization that my kitchen was not set up to house both a [pasta maker](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0R1aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDMvMjcvYnV0dGVyLWdhcmxpYy1hbmQtbG90cy1vZi13aW5lLW1ha2UtdGhpcy0xMC1taW51dGUtcGFzdGEtZGlubmVyLXNpbXBseS1pcnJlc2lzdGlibGUvVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) and[bread machine](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RKaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjAvMDMvMjkvYmFraW5nLWJyZWFkLWNvbWZvcnQtc3Vydml2YWwtcHN5Y2hvbG9neS9XA3NwY0IKYyLqtiVjDsurhFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl), but I eventually built a roster of essential cookware. There’s my cherry red [Dutch oven](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RUaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDIvMjEvd2hhdC1jYW4taS1jb29rLWluLWEtZHV0Y2gtb3Zlbi1ldmVyeXRoaW5nX3BhcnRuZXIvVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) — a beloved birthday gift from my mother — which is pretty enough to live permanently on my stovetop. There’s a dusty rose-colored Always Pan, which I eyed on Instagram for months before finally clicking “order,” and which quickly became my most-used pan. When my boyfriend and I moved in together and had to consolidate our respective kitchens, he brought the good stuff: some stunning nesting mixing bowls, a black Kitchen-Aid mixer, an immersion blender and the only whisk I’ve ever enjoyed using. It was like the capsule wardrobe equivalent of cookware — practical, timeless, perhaps elegant in a way. But every outfit needs a good frivolous accessory or two, and if I had to choose one for my kitchen, it would have to be a butter warmer. Some important backstory: I regard butter, and all dairy, really, with an almost scholarly enthusiasm. It’s what inspired me to get my first [cheese mongering certification](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RYaHR0cHM6Ly9kb2NzLmdvb2dsZS5jb20vZG9jdW1lbnQvdS8wL2QvMVZwZ3lVSzZjVUh2cDV0VlFjSnBDakJmLUFYSjdBM3dWc3U0TVJNYTE4YlkvZWRpdFcDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) (I’m studying now for my second) and the reason why I’ve polled experts for their own tips on[how to buy the best butter](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RtaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDcvMjgvNS10aXBzLWZvci1idXlpbmctYmV0dGVyLWJ1dHRlci1hdC10aGUtZ3JvY2VyeS1zdG9yZS1hY2NvcmRpbmctdG8tYW4tZXhwZXJ0L1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~), and the [best way to store it](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RNaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDkvMDUveW91dmUtYmVlbi1zdG9yaW5nLXlvdXItZ29vZC1idXR0ZXItdGhlLXdheS9XA3NwY0IKYyLqtiVjDsurhFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl). For that reason, I tend to get served up recommended advertisements that pertain to my searches, like a pair of earrings that look like dangling hunks of roquefort and so many butter dishes. But then a few weeks back, I saw an online advertisement for a butter warmer, a tiny enamel pot that would be perfect for melting down a few knobs of butter. Initially, I waved off such a thing as a frivolous waste of counter space, much in the way some rolled their eyes at [Alice Waters’ hand-forged $250 egg spoon](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RLaHR0cHM6Ly9ueW1hZy5jb20vc3RyYXRlZ2lzdC9hcnRpY2xlL2Jlc3QtZHVwZXMtYWxpY2Utd2F0ZXJzLWVnZy1zcG9vbi5odG1sVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) — which she first showcased to the world in a 2009 episode of “60 Minutes” — dismissing it as more than a little bit twee. As Kim Severson wrote for the[New York Times](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RVaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vMjAxOC8wMy8yNi9kaW5pbmcvYWxpY2Utd2F0ZXJzLWVnZy1zcG9vbi1tZS10b28tbW92ZW1lbnQuaHRtbFcDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) almost a decade later, some “viewed cooking an egg over a fire as the embodiment of food elitism and all that is annoying about the Slow Food movement.” However, Waters, who is known in some circles as the “[Godmother of the Slow Food Movement](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0QuaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2xvd2Zvb2QuY29tL2Fib3V0LXVzL291ci1oaXN0b3J5L1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)” itself, had a different take. “I liked that feeling of watching it and holding it,” Waters told the [Times](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RVaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vMjAxOC8wMy8yNi9kaW5pbmcvYWxpY2Utd2F0ZXJzLWVnZy1zcG9vbi1tZS10b28tbW92ZW1lbnQuaHRtbFcDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~). “It’s not like cooking it in a pan. You just feel like you’re really in charge of it. It’s so elemental.” And I had a feeling that I would like the feeling of warming butter — for [baked potatoes](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RhaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMTkvMDMvMDIvY3Jpc3B5LWNyZWFteS1sb2FkZWQtYmFrZWQtcG90YXRvZXMtcmVjaXBlLWZ1bGx5LWxvYWRlZF9wYXJ0bmVyL1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~), to spread on [toast](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0R1aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDkvMDgvZW5qb3kteW91ci1icmVha2Zhc3QtYXMtZXVyb3BlYW5zLWRvLS1zbGF0aGVyZWQtaW4tYnV0dGVyLWFuZC1zaG93ZXJlZC1pbi1jaG9jb2xhdGUvVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~), to [drizzle over seafood](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RsaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDMvMDYvdHJhdmVsLXNvdXRoLXRvLWJheW91LWxhLWJhdHJlLXdpdGgtdGhlc2UtZGVsZWN0YWJsZS1wdW5jaHktcGlja2xlZC1zaHJpbXAvVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) — in one of these tiny pots. So, I reached out to Taylor Renn, the retail buyer for[East Fork Pottery](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0QZaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZWFzdGZvcmsuY29tL1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~), which carried the exact model I wanted (it turns out I wasn’t the only one, as it was recently sold out by the time we spoke). “The [Japanese Enamelware Butterwarmer](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RPaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZWFzdGZvcmsuY29tL3Byb2R1Y3RzL2phcGFuZXNlLWJ1dHRlci13YXJtZXI_dmFyaWFudD0zOTgxMzQwNTM0MzgyM1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) hails from Tokyo, from a company called Noda Horo that has been making professional kitchen goods since 1934,” Renn said. “With everything we curate at East Fork, we want to ensure it has a use, a distinctive purpose in your home.” The butter warmer in question She continued: “This lil pot is endlessly useful, minimal in design, and made from quality enameled steel. There is nothing more annoying than having to lug out your medium-sized saucepan for a tiny cooking job, so this piece appeals to cooks who crave efficiency in the kitchen.” According to Renn, despite its name, the butter warmer is not at all a unitasker. “Can also be used to: warm maple syrup, make a single cup of hot cocoa, reheat pasta sauce or soup, heat up milk for your coffee, make a quick, warm vinaigrette, or whisk together a yummy chocolate sauce for ice cream,” she said. Epicurious’ Emily Johnson noted the same in her 2021 article “[4 Reasons You Should Have a Butter Warmer](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RaaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZXBpY3VyaW91cy5jb20vZXhwZXJ0LWFkdmljZS80LXJlYXNvbnMteW91LXNob3VsZC1oYXZlLWEtYnV0dGVyLXdhcm1lci1hcnRpY2xlVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~),” in which she sang the praises of Dansk’s version of the petite cookware. From[toasting spices](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0Q5aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMTAvMDUvMjAvaG93X2xvbmdfZG9fc3BpY2VzX2xhc3QvVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)to [reheating a cup of coffee](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RlaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjAvMDQvMTIvaG93LXRvLW1ha2UtYmV0dGVyLWNvZmZlZS1hdC1ob21lLXNpbXBseS1hbmQtd2l0aG91dC1leHBlbnNpdmUtZ2Vhci9XA3NwY0IKYyLqtiVjDsurhFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl), the butter warmer had a distinct place in Johnson’s kitchen. But Renn said that beyond the pot’s utility, it has some real aesthetic appeal. “Everyone loves tiny cute things,” she said. Johnson concurred in her article. “Like most of the decisions I make in life, the choice to buy the mini pot was not rooted in any sort of practicality,” she wrote. “It was about the cuteness factor.” And honestly, perhaps that is motivation enough to expand one’s cookware collection beyond the wholly utilitarian. The world around us is bleak as it is and, let’s be honest, we all found out during the pandemic just how monotonous cooking can be. If an egg spoon or a bespoke butter pot is the thing that brings joy to the daily slog, so be it. I’m sure we can all clear a little extra counter space for that. This week for The Bite, Salon Food’s weekly newsletter, I pulled together some of my favorite stories and recipes from our archive that are all about finding joy — however small it may be — in the cooking process. Is there a dish, recipe or piece of cookware that has done the same for you? Let me know at astevens@salon.com — Ashlie Stevens, deputy food editor. Promotion from Basbas [Check it out!] The most awarded hierbas in the world Known for its complex flavor and easy drink, Basbas is a luxurious spirit made from herbs native to Ibiza.Normally only available at the finest restaurants in Miami and New York, for a limited time you can get your hands on Batch 001 [Check it out!](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0QiaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvZWxpbnEzcDRtOVcDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) Recipes and stories from Salon Food’s archives - [The nourishing joy of simmered whole chicken](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0ROaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDUvMTQvdGhlLW5vdXJpc2hpbmctam95LW9mLXNpbW1lcmVkLXdob2xlLWNoaWNrZW4vVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [My love letter to Italian-American red sauce joints](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RVaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMTAvMTMvbXktbG92ZS1sZXR0ZXItdG8taXRhbGlhbi1hbWVyaWNhbi1yZWQtc2F1Y2Utam9pbnRzL1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) - [Golden milk, Hindu pilgrimages and a state mental hospital: A personal history told through turmeric](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0SEaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDgvMTEvZ29sZGVuLW1pbGstaGluZHUtcGlsZ3JpbWFnZXMtYW5kLWEtc3RhdGUtbWVudGFsLWhvc3BpdGFsLWEtcGVyc29uYWwtaGlzdG9yeS10b2xkLXRocm91Z2gtdHVybWVyaWMvVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [Cottage cheese isn't tasteless — you just need to buy the good stuff](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RkaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDgvMjMvY290dGFnZS1jaGVlc2UtaXNudC10YXN0ZWxlc3MtLXlvdS1qdXN0LW5lZWQtdG8tYnV5LXRoZS1nb29kLXN0dWZmL1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) - [Enjoy your breakfast as Europeans do — slathered in butter and showered in chocolate](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0R1aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDkvMDgvZW5qb3kteW91ci1icmVha2Zhc3QtYXMtZXVyb3BlYW5zLWRvLS1zbGF0aGVyZWQtaW4tYnV0dGVyLWFuZC1zaG93ZXJlZC1pbi1jaG9jb2xhdGUvVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) If you found yourself here without subscribing, make sure to sign up for [The Bite](~/AASU4wA~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you don't miss anything! What to make for dinner this weekend Speaking of food stuff that brings us joy, let me tell you about one of my favorite diner orders. I crave it maybe once every six months. I want a tuna melt — open-faced, preferably, and draped with waxy cheddar cheese — served with a side of crispy steak fries and a crunchy pickle spear. Oh, and a cup of hot black coffee. I’m not sure what it is about that meal, but when I eat it, it just feels like a tremendous nostalgia trip. I love it — to the point that I’m planning on taking a stab at making it at home. I’m going to start with [Ina Garten’s tuna melt](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RhaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDQvMTIvYnJlYWstb3V0LW9mLXlvdXItbHVuY2gtcnV0LXdpdGgtaW5hLWdhcnRlbnMtdWx0aW1hdGUtdHVuYS1tZWx0L1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) and this [French fry recipe](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0Q1aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMTAvMTEvMTMvZnJlbmNoX2ZyaWVzX3JlY2lwZS9XA3NwY0IKYyLqtiVjDsurhFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) by Francis Lam. For coffee, I’m going to consult [this guide](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RlaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjAvMDQvMTIvaG93LXRvLW1ha2UtYmV0dGVyLWNvZmZlZS1hdC1ob21lLXNpbXBseS1hbmQtd2l0aG91dC1leHBlbnNpdmUtZ2Vhci9XA3NwY0IKYyLqtiVjDsurhFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl)to making cafe-quality coffee at home (I’m sure it’ll beat burnt diner coffee by a mile). From our columnists - ["Bold and robust": An expert's guide to making a better Vietnamese iced coffee](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RsaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDkvMTAvYm9sZC1hbmQtcm9idXN0LWFuLWV4cGVydHMtZ3VpZGUtdG8tbWFraW5nLWEtYmV0dGVyLXZpZXRuYW1lc2UtaWNlZC1jb2ZmZWUvVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Ashlie Stevens) - [Turkish eggs are the most garlicky, buttery way possible to start the day](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RqaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDkvMTUvdHVya2lzaC1lZ2dzLWFyZS10aGUtbW9zdC1nYXJsaWNreS1idXR0ZXJ5LXdheS1wb3NzaWJsZS10by1zdGFydC10aGUtZGF5L1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) (Mary Elizabeth Williams) - [Compound butter: The culinary school-approved way to radically transform your meals](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0R0aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDkvMTAvY29tcG91bmQtYnV0dGVyLXRoZS1jdWxpbmFyeS1zY2hvb2wtYXBwcm92ZWQtd2F5LXRvLXJhZGljYWxseS10cmFuc2Zvcm0teW91ci1tZWFscy9XA3NwY0IKYyLqtiVjDsurhFIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) (Ashlie Stevens) - [EatOkra aims to be the next Amazon for Black-owned food businesses](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RYaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDkvMTMvZWF0b2tyYS1haW1zLXRvLWJlLXRoZS1uZXh0LWZvci1ibGFjay1vd25lZC1idXNpbmVzc2VzL1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)(Maggie Hennessy) - [Want to take a bite of sunshine? These lemony citrus cooler cookies are the answer](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RzaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDkvMTQvd2FudC10by10YWtlLWEtYml0ZS1vZi1zdW5zaGluZS10aGVzZS1sZW1vbnktY2l0cnVzLWNvb2xlci1jb29raWVzLWFyZS10aGUtYW5zd2VyL1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) (Bibi Hutchings) ~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0SBaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDcvMjUvaG93LWNvb2tib29rLXdyaXRlci1lcmljLWtpbS1mb3VuZC1ob21lLXRocm91Z2gta29yZWFuLWFtZXJpY2FuLWZvb2QtaW0tb2JzZXNzZWQtd2l0aC1ub3N0YWxnaWEvVwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~ What we’re reading - [Wild, Young, and Green: How Quelites Helped Me See Myself in Vegan Mexican Cuisine](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0QxaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cudGhla2l0Y2huLmNvbS9xdWVsaXRlcy1lc3NheS0yMzQxMTM3MVcDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) (The Kitchn) - [These Tests Tell You Which Foods to Avoid. Do They Work?](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0RGaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vMjAyMi8wOS8xMy93ZWxsL2VhdC9mb29kLXNlbnNpdGl2aXR5LXRlc3QuaHRtbFcDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) (The New York Times) Our mailing address: 1000 N. West Street, Suite 1200 Wilmington, DE 19801 [Unsubscribe from this list](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0Q8aHR0cHM6Ly9yZWFkLmxldHRlcmhlYWQuZW1haWwvdGhlLWJpdGUvdW5zdWJzY3JpYmU_aWQ9QDM0NTA5VwNzcGNCCmMi6rYlYw7Lq4RSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) Copyright © 2022 The Bite, All rights reserved. [Made with Letterhead [Letterhead logo]](~/AASU4wA~/RgRlCDvoP0QiaHR0cHM6Ly9saW5rLndoZXJlYnkudXMvbmVwbm83czh5c1cDc3BjQgpjIuq2JWMOy6uEUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)