The Bite (Issue 26): Traditions at the airport Chili's

Tradition is what you make of it Earlier this week, I boarded a plane for the first time since 2020. I was vaguely tense about flying again, enough so that I arrived five hours early for a domestic flight, but as soon as I made my way through the security checkpoint, any nerves I had dissipated. Aside from folks — thankfully — wearing masks, it was pretty much business as usual. There were the weary-looking flight attendants winding through the Starbucks line for venti iced coffees, while nearby, a woman shouted at a beleaguered American Airlines employee about a gate change. Men in suits battled with surly teenagers for the valuable terminal real estate next to outlets. Somewhere a couple had probably agreed to stop bickering because they were just one flight away from their honeymoon. Since I had time to kill, I found my way over to the airport Chili’s. Sure, it was like 10:30 in the morning, but everyone knows that time as we understand it ceases to exist thanks to the liminality of airports (and, it should be noted, I’m a dedicated Chili’s apologist; I worked there in high school and early college and have had a soft spot for southwest eggrolls and novelty cocktails ever since). Upon arrival, I promptly ordered some chips and queso and popped open my laptop. Across the bar, two men in Cubs hats were working on their third beers. They got my attention to ask what I was working on — it was this story about [“Julia” on HBO Max](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0R4aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDQvMTMvbG9uZy1kYXlzLXBhcGllci1tY2gtYW5kLTUwLXNvdWZmbHMtaG93LXRoZS1zdHlsaXN0LWZvci1qdWxpYS1yZWNyZWF0ZWQtY2hpbGRzLXJlY2lwZXMvVwNzcGNCCmJL1q9aYnxbGPtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~). In turn, I asked where they were going. Turns out, they were brothers who took an annual vacation to Las Vegas together to “play blackjack and eat too much at the buffet.” This was their first trip back in three years. “I’ll let you in on a secret,” one of the men jovially called across the bar. “We always kick off by getting a little drunk before our flight right here. Right here!” It was a funny moment, but one that was kind of poignant in its own way. Things aren’t likely ever going to be exactly like they were in the Before Times, but there is something soothing about being able to return to some of the routines we once had. This could be spending Easter or Passover with family — which is why I was traveling — or simply resuming a longstanding tradition of getting day-drunk at the O’Hare Chili’s before a flight. This week for The Bite, Salon’s weekly food newsletter, I’ve pulled together some of my favorite seasonal pieces as we head into the spring holidays, as well as a few about food traditions. What are some of your favorite, unexpected food or drink traditions? Let us know at food@salon.com. — Ashlie Stevens, deputy food editor *** If you found yourself here without subscribing, make sure to sign up for [The Bite](~/AASU4wA~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-1IbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) so you don't miss anything! *** Our favorites on seasonal dishes and food traditions - [Nothing beats my Mom’s carrot cake, which is as simple to make as it is sublimely delicious](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0R7aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMTIvMjEvbm90aGluZy1iZWF0cy1teS1tb21zLWNhcnJvdC1jYWtlLXdoaWNoLWlzLWFzLXNpbXBsZS10by1tYWtlLWFzLWl0LWlzLXN1YmxpbWVseS1kZWxpY2lvdXMvVwNzcGNCCmJL1q9aYnxbGPtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [This simple Easter menu updates classics like deviled eggs, lamb with mint and spring peas](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0R7aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDQvMTUvdGhpcy1zaW1wbGUtZWFzdGVyLW1lbnUtdXBkYXRlcy1jbGFzc2ljcy1saWtlLWRldmlsZWQtZWdncy1sYW1iLXdpdGgtbWludC1hbmQtc3ByaW5nLXBlYXMvVwNzcGNCCmJL1q9aYnxbGPtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [How breadfruit matzo balls became a staple for the Barbadian Jewish community](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0RvaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDQvMTUvaG93LWJyZWFkZnJ1aXQtbWF0em8tYmFsbHMtYmVjYW1lLWEtc3RhcGxlLWZvci10aGUtYmFyYmFkaWFuLWpld2lzaC1jb21tdW5pdHkvVwNzcGNCCmJL1q9aYnxbGPtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) - [This bread is beloved in Paris — and a relic of Jewish history](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0RnaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDQvMTUvdGhpcy1icmVhZC1pcy1iZWxvdmVkLWluLXBhcmlzLS1hbmQtYS1yZWxpYy1vZi1qZXdpc2gtaGlzdG9yeV9wYXJ0bmVyL1cDc3BjQgpiS9avWmJ8Wxj7Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) - [On Porchetta: An ode to the East Village stalwart](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0RSaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjEvMDUvMzEvb24tcG9yY2hldHRhLWFuLW9kZS10by10aGUtZWFzdC12aWxsYWdlLXN0YWx3YXJ0L1cDc3BjQgpiS9avWmJ8Wxj7Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) Your weekend dinner plans I’m not sure about you, but my weekend is packed with family gatherings and lots of delicious (though heavy) meals. All that is book-ended by another flight back home on Sunday night, so when I get in, I’m going to want something simple and nourishing before crawling into bed while feeling vaguely guilty about the fact that I likely haven’t fully unpacked yet. Spring pea soup Already, what sounds good is a bowl of [creamy spring pea soup](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0RhaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDQvMDkvYS01LWluZ3JlZGllbnQtZm9ybXVsYS1mb3ItdGhlLXBlcmZlY3RseS1jcmVhbXktc3ByaW5nLXBlYS1zb3VwL1cDc3BjQgpiS9avWmJ8Wxj7Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~). I’m going to borrow the schmaltzy croutons from [this recipe](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0RsaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDEvMjQvY296eS11cC10by10aGlzLW5ldy1jaGlja2VuLWFuZC13aWxkLW11c2hyb29tLXN0ZXctd2l0aC1zY2htYWx0enktY3JvdXRvbnMvVwNzcGNCCmJL1q9aYnxbGPtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~)to serve alongside it. If dessert is on the menu — and it should always be on the menu — I’m likely going to go for something cool and refreshing like Mary Elizabeth Williams’ [three-ingredient soft serve](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0R5aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjAvMDUvMTYvdGhpcy1hZGRpY3RpdmUtc29mdC1zZXJ2ZS1pY2UtY3JlYW0taGFzLW9ubHktdGhyZWUtaW5ncmVkaWVudHMtb25lLW9mLXdoaWNoLWlzLW9wdGlvbmFsL1cDc3BjQgpiS9avWmJ8Wxj7Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~)with berries. From our columnists - [Omelets are hard to master and more lessons learned from "The Julia Child Challenge"](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0R0aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDQvMTIvb21lbGV0cy1hcmUtaGFyZC10by1tYXN0ZXItYW5kLW1vcmUtbGVzc29ucy1sZWFybmVkLWZyb20tdGhlLWp1bGlhLWNoaWxkLWNoYWxsZW5nZS9XA3NwY0IKYkvWr1pifFsY-1IbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) (Julie Powell) - [8 best substitutes for brownies if you're out of eggs (or not using them)](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0RoaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDQvMTEvOC1iZXN0LXN1YnN0aXR1dGVzLWZvci1icm93bmllcy1pZi15b3VyZS1vdXQtb2YtZWdncy1vci1ub3QtdXNpbmctdGhlbS9XA3NwY0IKYkvWr1pifFsY-1IbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) (Ashlie Stevens) - [You don't have to be an "Arrested Development" fan to appreciate the genius of frozen bananas](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0R8aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuc2Fsb24uY29tLzIwMjIvMDQvMTQveW91LWRvbnQtaGF2ZS10by1iZS1hbi1hcnJlc3RlZC1kZXZlbG9wbWVudC1mYW4tdG8tYXBwcmVjaWF0ZS10aGUtZ2VuaXVzLW9mLWZyb3plbi1iYW5hbmFzL1cDc3BjQgpiS9avWmJ8Wxj7Uht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW44NUBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACU~) (Mary Elizabeth Williams) What we’re reading - [For One Black Whiskey Maker, Accolades and Now a Lawsuit](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0RQaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubnl0aW1lcy5jb20vMjAyMi8wNC8xMi9kaW5pbmcvZWJvbmktbWFqb3ItZGlhZ2VvLWRpc2NyaW1pbmF0aW9uLmh0bWxXA3NwY0IKYkvWr1pifFsY-1IbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl)(New York Times) - [The Daily Challenge of Running a Cafe in Ukraine Right Now](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0RUaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZWF0ZXIuY29tLzIzMDIzNjI4L2thZmUtamVydXNhbGVtLWx2aXYtdWtyYWluZS13YXItcnVzc2lhLXBhc3NvdmVyLXNlZGVyVwNzcGNCCmJL1q9aYnxbGPtSG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjg1QGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJQ~~) (Eater) - [We Tried All the New "Psychedelic" Beverages (& Here's What's Actually Good)](~/AASU4wA~/RgRkPTTVP0R0aHR0cHM6Ly9mb29kNTIuY29tL2RyaW5rcy9ub24tYWxjb2hvbGljLzI3MzE2LXdlLXRyaWVkLWFsbC10aGUtbmV3LXBzeWNoZWRlbGljLWJldmVyYWdlcy1oZXJlLXMtd2hhdC1zLWFjdHVhbGx5LWdvb2RXA3NwY0IKYkvWr1pifFsY-1IbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luODVAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAl) (Food52) Our mailing address: 1000 N. 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