Coffee brings you up, tea [cools you down](. Hot apple cider pairs with a cold morning at the farmerâs market; consommé is for the ailing; butter tea is largely the [province of yak farmers]( on the great Tibetan plane, or, [in its coffee form]( of biohackers in Silicon Valley.
Hot chocolate is like none of these. It is a treat, but not so holiday-bound as eggnog or mulled wine; it gives you a lift, but you can still have it just before bedtime. It befits the young and the old, the sick and the well, urbanites and country-dwellers. Most of all, it is a drink that says, âI love you.â (You can use it to remind yourself of that, too, if you need to.)
Wherever you go (almost), you will find a version of it. [Colombians add cheese](. Filipinos may include [peanut butter](. The Viennese top it with [a thick slug of whipped cream](. In Mexico, where it originated, it is minimally grainy and maximally invigorating. But where did it come from, and how did we all fall in love with it? Letâs put the kettle on and find out. Cheers!
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[Quartz Daily Obsession]
Hot chocolate
December 23, 2019
The fuzzy slippers of hot beverages
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Coffee brings you up, tea [cools you down](. Hot apple cider pairs with a cold morning at the farmerâs market; consommé is for the ailing; butter tea is largely the [province of yak farmers]( on the great Tibetan plane, or, [in its coffee form]( of biohackers in Silicon Valley.
Hot chocolate is like none of these. It is a treat, but not so holiday-bound as eggnog or mulled wine; it gives you a lift, but you can still have it just before bedtime. It befits the young and the old, the sick and the well, urbanites and country-dwellers. Most of all, it is a drink that says, âI love you.â (You can use it to remind yourself of that, too, if you need to.)
Wherever you go (almost), you will find a version of it. [Colombians add cheese](. Filipinos may include [peanut butter](. The Viennese top it with [a thick slug of whipped cream](. In Mexico, where it originated, it is minimally grainy and maximally invigorating. But where did it come from, and how did we all fall in love with it? Letâs put the kettle on and find out. Cheers!
ð¦ [Tweet this!](
ð[View this email on the web](
by the digits
[550:]( Calories in a large Starbucks hot chocolateâthe same as a Big Mac
[$13.95:]( Cost of a razzle-dazzling Frrrozen Hot Chocolate at the deeply kitschy Manhattan restaurant Serendipity 3
[2,000:]( Cups of chocolatl poured and consumed every day in the court of Montezuma, the 16th-century Aztec leader
[1,291:]( Instagram hits for the hashtag #blossominghotchocolate, Dominique Anselâs telegenic chocolate-marshmallow concoction
[7:3:]( Ratio of dark to milk chocolate in British food writer Felicity Cloakeâs âperfectâ hot chocolate
[24 g (8 oz):]( Daily ration of chocolate provided to polar explorer Robert Scottâs men on their 1911 trek to the South Pole
[35%:]( Growth of Mexican hot chocolate on US menus since 2015
REUTERS/Blair Gable
origin story
Bean there, done that
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People have been turning the seeds of the cacao plant into drinks for thousands of yearsâin Mexico, [cacao-based beverages have been a staple]( since at least 1,900 BC. Later, cacao was a popular drink among the Maya, who took it warm, and the Aztecs, who preferred it cold and seasoned with spices like chile and vanilla. (It was said to have been brought to humans by the god Quetzalcoatl, who was cast out by his divine peers for sharing it.)
Early Spanish colonists werenât so sold, however: Christopher Columbus in particular had little time for it. But gradually, the drink made its way into Spanish life, first among monks and friars and then as a luxury good, popular in the Spanish court. By the end of the 18th century, it had conquered Europeâbut wrought misery in the process. Hot chocolate was so popular that it created a thriving market for slave labor in the New World, with cacao plantations variously owned by the English, Dutch, and French.
Though today we think of bar chocolate as the original, most essential form of the treat, the first chocolate bar wasnât sold until 1847, when a UK-based manufacturer, Joseph Fry, figured out the right proportions of cocoa powder, cocoa butter, and sugar to make a solid bar.
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quotable
âObviously, itâs not really delicious like hot chocolate or Coke, but for wine⦠brilliant.â
â[Peep Showâs Jeremy âJezâ Usborne, on a pricey Italian red](
âThe superiority of [hot] chocolate, both for health and nourishment, will soon give it the same preference over tea and coffee in America which it has in Spain.â
â[Thomas Jefferson, writing to John Adams](
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pop quiz
Which of these people has not expressed a fondness for hot chocolate?
Courtney LoveMiranda KerrSamuel PepysVirginia Woolf
Correct. Speaking to Grub Street, the Hole frontwoman noted: âI hate chocolate. Fuck chocolate. Kurt hated chocolate, too.â
Incorrect.
If your inbox doesnât support this quiz, find the solution at bottom of email.
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Explain it like Iâm 5!
Whatâs the difference between chocolate and cocoa?
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Although some people say âcocoaâ to mean hot chocolate, cocoa powder and solid chocolate are two different products made from the cacao bean. Either can be used to make hot chocolateâcocoa dissolved into warm milk with some sugar makes a thinner concoction than the [thick Spanish style made from melted chocolate]( and milk, and used for dipping churros.
Making chocolate is itself a long process. It begins with seeds from the cacao tree, which is native to Mexico. They have a very bitter taste and to improve the flavor, they are piled in vats to ferment for up to a week. After that, theyâre put in the sun to dry for another week or two, before being cleaned and roasted.
This gives us cacao nibs, which are then ground into a powder called cocoa massâchocolate, in its simplest form. But thereâs still a ways to go. First, that mixture is heated until it melts into a liquid called chocolate liquor. Next, it is separated into its two partsâdry, crumbly cocoa solids and the fatty pale yellow cocoa butter that gives chocolate its creamy texture. To make chocolate, theyâll be put back together with sugar and sometimes milk.
Cocoa is produced when the cocoa solids are processed into a fine powder. It is intensely flavored, but not sweet at all. It is generally used in baked goodsâand hot chocolate, or hot cocoa, of course.
brief history
[1502:]( Christopher Columbus encounters cocoa beans for the first timeâbut is much more interested in gold and silver.
[1657:]( Londonâs first âChocolate Houseâ is opened by a Frenchman, who promises the drink at âreasonable rates.â
[1828:]( A Dutch chemist adds alkaline salts to chocolate liquor, creating Dutch process cocoa powder.
[1961:]( Swiss Miss becomes the first instant cocoa brand to hit US shelves.
[1975:]( British soul band Hot Chocolate releases their chart-topping single âYou Sexy Thing.â
[2009:]( Emmy-winning choreographer Debbie Allen stages the first performance of the Hot Chocolate Nutcracker, updating the festive Tchaikovsky original.
[2019:]( New Yorkâs City Bakery, home of âAmericaâs most iconic hot chocolate,â closes its doors.
DIY
How-to hot cocoa
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[Americaâs Test Kitchen]( and [Alton Brown]( have similar, simple recipes for creating your own. Both recommend Dutch-process cocoa powder; as the cooks at Americaâs Test Kitchen point out, the alkaline salts raise the pH level, giving it âfuller flavor and deeper color.â ATK recommends white chocolate chips; Brown suggests adding a pinch of cayenne pepper like the Aztecs, which he says âups the flavor ante quite a bit, and as called for here certainly wonât be sensed as âheat.ââ He also adds cornstarch as a thickener, as is done in [Spain and South America](. (You can also thicken it Viennese style, [with an egg yolk](
Cayenne or chiles are common ingredients in Mexican hot chocolate, as in [this Bon Appétit recipe]( which also calls for cinnamon and almond extract. The Latin Kitchen has an [even more elaborate version]( which includes anise, nutmeg, pink peppercorn, and cardamom.
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fun fact!
The [âhot chocolate effectâ]( is the name given to the rise in pitch heard when repeatedly tapping a cup of hot liquid once a soluble powder like hot chocolate, instant coffee, or salt has been added, as you might while stirring it with a teaspoon. It is also known as the allassonic effect.
watch this!
The Hot Choc-Late Soldiers
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In this 1934 Disney short, taken from the longer Hollywood Party, a brave battalion of hot chocolate soldiers must venture forth and draw (candy) swords against warring gingerbread men, perched atop a cookie castle. Very sweet or totally saccharine? Weâll leave it up to you to decide.
take me down this ð° hole!
The moral status of hot chocolate
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In 1636, the Spanish historian and travel writer Antonio de Léon Pinelo pondered [a difficult question]( Did drinking hot chocolate break ecclesiastical fasts? At the time, monks and other members of the Catholic church spent a significant portion of the year fasting, including abstaining from meat, eggs, and other tasty foodstuffs. Hot chocolate didnât obviously break any God-given rules, but it seemed deeply suspect.
This [17th-century book]( written entirely in Spanish, explores [the various views]( of theologians and other thinkers on this hot topic. Despite the pope giving the drink his blessing, the anti-chocolate brigade did score some winsâthe drink was banned by some [orders, like the Carmelites](. Mind you, you can hardly blame them, [writes Mexican historian]( M. Mercè Gras Casanova: âThe drinkâs extraordinary quality and delicacy led some to conjecture that such a delicacy must necessarily be a sin.â
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poll
How do you drink your hot chocolate?
[Click here to vote](
Marshmallows, whipped cream, the whole nine yards.Just plain, thanks.Can I have a coffee instead?
ð¬ let's talk!
In Fridayâs poll about [Star Wars]( 77% of you said you prefer the original trilogy, or episodes IV-VI; 14% of you are all about the most recent batch, episodes VII-IX; and just 9% of you most enjoy the sullen teens and political drama of episodes I-III.
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