👃Durian: On the scent of the world's most divisive fruit

There’s a perfect logic to holding a US-North Korea summit in Singapore: It’s durian season! The fruit—perhaps the most polarizing known to man—is by no means exclusive to the island city-state, but it is a major player on the fruit stand. (Okay, we’re almost certain it didn’t play a role in diplomatic decision-making, but who knows?) The durian is huge and infamously smelly. “It is the width of a man’s skull, melon green or lemon yellow rind that is hard as bone and covered with thorns arranged in clean rows,” [in the words of poet Bao-Long Chu.]( Thought to have originated in Malaysia or Borneo, it’s been cultivated for centuries in southeast Asia, and now enjoys global superstar status. Online retailers like [Alibaba]( eBay, and Amazon sell it fresh and [freeze-dried]( and in various other forms including essences and [seeds](. (There was even once a brief mention of [a Kit-Kat tribute]( Popularly known as the “king of fruits,” the durian accordingly has [extremely enthusiastic devotees]( of whom are willing to plunk down serious cash for the [ultra-rare black thorn variety]( also many haters. In Singapore, it’s the inspiration for [not one]( [but two]( new cafés, and is also prohibited on public transportation. Of course, where some see a divisive fruit, others see a celebration of harmony: “It is neither acid, nor sweet, nor juicy, yet one feels the want of none of these qualities, for it is perfect as it is,” wrote the naturalist [Alfred Russel Wallace](. Shall we peel back the skin—er, thorny rind—and dig in? 🐦 [Tweet this]( 🌐 [View this email on the web]( Brought to you by [Quartz Obsession] Durian June 11, 2018 Bow down --------------------------------------------------------------- There’s a perfect logic to holding a US-North Korea summit in Singapore: It’s durian season! The fruit—perhaps the most polarizing known to man—is by no means exclusive to the island city-state, but it is a major player on the fruit stand. (Okay, we’re almost certain it didn’t play a role in diplomatic decision-making, but who knows?) The durian is huge and infamously smelly. “It is the width of a man’s skull, melon green or lemon yellow rind that is hard as bone and covered with thorns arranged in clean rows,” [in the words of poet Bao-Long Chu.]( Thought to have originated in Malaysia or Borneo, it’s been cultivated for centuries in southeast Asia, and now enjoys global superstar status. Online retailers like [Alibaba]( eBay, and Amazon sell it fresh and [freeze-dried]( and in various other forms including essences and [seeds](. (There was even once a brief mention of [a Kit-Kat tribute]( Popularly known as the “king of fruits,” the durian accordingly has [extremely enthusiastic devotees]( of whom are willing to plunk down serious cash for the [ultra-rare black thorn variety]( also many haters. In Singapore, it’s the inspiration for [not one]( [but two]( new cafés, and is also prohibited on public transportation. Of course, where some see a divisive fruit, others see a celebration of harmony: “It is neither acid, nor sweet, nor juicy, yet one feels the want of none of these qualities, for it is perfect as it is,” wrote the naturalist [Alfred Russel Wallace](. Shall we peel back the skin—er, thorny rind—and dig in? 🐦 [Tweet this]( 🌐 [View this email on the web]( Department of jargon The word [durian first appeared in the 1580s,]( originating from the Malay “duri,” meaning thorn. Reuters/Athit Perawongmetha By the digits [2–8 kg (4–17 pounds):]( Weight range of durian fruits [400,000 tons:]( Average amount of durians annually produced in Thailand, the fruit’s largest exporter [80,000:]( Durians purchased in just 60 seconds by Chinese consumers during Alibaba’s April promotion [30:]( Recognized types of durian, including varieties named Golden Phoenix, Red Prawn, and Black Pearl [$9,369:]( Price the most expensive durian, known as kanyao, fetched at Bangkok’s “King of Durian” 2017 charity auction [2014:]( Year durian finally made its way to grocery stores in the UK [$375:]( Fine for bringing durian aboard Singapore’s metro system 2: Buildings frequently referred to as durians—the [Esplanade theater]( in Singapore and [Pusat Sains Negara]( in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia [40:]( Approximate number of firefighters who responded to a report of a gas leak at a university in Melbourne, Australia. (It turned out to be a rotting durian.) Brought to you by Accenture There’s a butter way to improve your crop yield --------------------------------------------------------------- One Minnesota dairy company is on its way to having a $13 billion precision-agriculture business due, in part, to their deploying semi-autonomous tractors that make decisions on-board as they traverse a farm. A field that once produced 100 to 130 bushels of corn per acre now produces over 500 bushels of corn per acre. That’s what happens when humanity’s oldest industry meets the internet of thinking.[Check out Accenture's 2018 Tech Vision for more business trends]( Super quotable “It kind of tastes like onions and garlic and pineapple and avocado—but in a custard.” — [Actress Jessica Chastain]( “Like red onion that has been left in the cellar for years and then marinated in acetone.” — [A SmithsonianMag.com commenter]( “Turpentine and onions, garnished with a gym sock.” — [Food writer Richard Sterling]( Giphy Million-dollar question What's that smell?! --------------------------------------------------------------- Scientists from the German Research Center for Food Chemistry attribute durian’s signature stench to a peculiar combination of [50 different compounds.]( Eight of these hadn’t previously been detected in durians before this research, and four were previously unknown to scientists at all. “What’s interesting is that none of the compounds individually seem to match with the characteristic durian smell—they range widely, and include labels like fruity, skunky, metallic, rubbery, burnt, roasted onion, garlic, cheese, onion and honey,” [Joseph Stromberg writes at Smithsonian.]( “A number of them have been detected in just a few other substances, such as cooked beef, yeast extract, dried squid and leeks. Somehow, the combination of these 50 chemicals produces the powerful scent that has entranced and repulsed people the world over.” Reuters/Edgar Su In the news The Kim Jong Un impersonator known as Howard X recently visited Singapore to [“wish for a successful summit between the real Kim and Trump.”]( sidenote (Wait, really... why is the summit in Singapore?) --------------------------------------------------------------- The US and Singapore have had friendly relations for almost half a century, with more than [30,000 Americans residing there](. But Singapore has diplomatic ties with North Korea too: It’s home to one of [North Korea’s 47 embassies]( and until 2016, North Korean citizens could enter Singapore without a visa. In addition to being neutral territory, Singapore has an authoritarian government with a proven track record for safely hosting high-level diplomatic meetings. Giphy Pop Quiz What city is nicknamed “the big durian”? Chanthaburi, ThailandJakarta, IndonesiaSingaporeKuala Lumpur, Malaysia Correct. It’s Indonesia’s answer to the Big Apple. Incorrect. If your inbox doesn’t support this quiz, find the solution at bottom of email. Fun fact! According to a Japanese study, durian strongly inhibits the enzyme used by the liver to break down alcohol, which can make [drinking and eating durian dangerous](. Reuters/Daniel Munoz Smooth pollinators How flying foxes help durians survive --------------------------------------------------------------- The large bats in the Pteropus and Acerodon genus appear to be one of the plant’s most reliable pollinators, according to an [Ecology and Evolution study](. Though other bats (as well as civets and slow loris) also serve as pollinators, the Guardian reports, flying foxes have the unique [ability to reach lofty, mature durian flowers]( which they handle with great care, “lapping up the nectar while leaving the flower unruffled.” watch this! New York City’s Durian Man --------------------------------------------------------------- Jay Fan has spent two decades in Chinatown serving durian from a sidewalk booth on Grand Street. Fan serves regulars and tourists alike, and has amassed a following from YouTube videos showing his [quick-serve method]( of cutting durian and prying the fruit out with two spoons. “It’s addictive—I have people who come every other day,” Fan told the [New York Times]( in a 2013 profile. “It’s like ice cream, but more expensive.” Giphy Poll How do you feel about durian? [Click here to vote]( Love it!Hate it!Love and hate it! The fine print In last week’s poll, we asked how you would feel handling a [fountain pen]( of you said you’re “copying this entire email out longhand with a flexible steel nib,” 36% would give it a shot, and 25% admitted your hands “don’t work that way” anymore. 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