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Now testing: Boxed chocolates

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newyorktimes.com

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Tue, Feb 1, 2022 11:53 PM

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We set out to find chocolates that feel special, taste extraordinary, and make great gifts—just

We set out to find chocolates that feel special, taste extraordinary, and make great gifts—just in time for Valentine’s Day. [Several open boxes of chocolate.] Gabriella Gershenson YOUR GUIDE Gabriella Gershenson You know that classic scene in the movies, the one where the pampered diva in her ostrich-feather–trimmed robe is lying in bed, biting into bonbons and then discarding them with dissatisfaction, a symbol of her spoiled malaise? Testing close to 100 chocolates for the update to our [boxed chocolates guide]( certainly conjured that image. But unlike the diva, we take our sampling very, very seriously. In time for Valentine’s Day, my fellow kitchen editors Marguerite Preston, Marilyn Ong, and I studiously savored three new-to-us boxed chocolates alongside three of our current picks. The goal was to identify chocolates that feel special, taste extraordinary, and make great gifts for yourself or for someone else. We aimed to pinpoint boxes that were suitable for different occasions—a romantic gesture, say, versus a corporate one. And since tastes vary, we kept that in mind when classifying our picks, calling out the boxes that were more adventurous in their flavors and ones that were more traditional. It was a hard job, but someone had to do it. When you buy through our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. [Learn more ›]( What we tested For this update, we tested six boxes of chocolates, including three new contenders and three of the guide’s previous picks (with the exception of the [Amore di Mona Assorted Mignardise Gift Box]( our current vegan, allergen-free pick): - [Recchiuti Confections Black Box]( // $50 for 16 pieces - [La Maison du Chocolat Coffret Maison Dark and Milk Chocolate]( // $65 for 24 pieces - [Michel Cluizel Milk & Dark Chocolate Truffles]( // $40 for 15 pieces - [Richart Initiation]( // $47 for 32 pieces - [Kate Weiser Chocolate Artist Collection]( // $38 for 15 pieces - [John Kelly Chocolates 12 Piece Signature Handcrafted Chocolate Collection]( // $52 for 12 pieces The numbers 2 boxes shipped from overseas 90 chocolates tasted 99 the highest cacao percentage of the chocolates we tried $160.68 price per pound of the most expensive chocolates we tried Initial impressions [Several open boxes of chocolate.] Gabriella Gershenson Because we’re still working remotely due to the ongoing pandemic, Marilyn, Marguerite, and I had the chocolates delivered to our respective homes, instead of doing our usual in-person taste test. The logistical challenges of shipping to three separate locations—plus supply-chain issues—compelled us to limit this update to just three new boxes and the top three current picks. To ensure we were all evaluating them using the same criteria, we used a spreadsheet with prompts for our observations on aesthetics, fillings, and the chocolate itself. Since we were selecting the chocolates with gift-giving in mind, before even tasting, we sized up the look of each box. Did it arrive in good shape? What impression did it make? We agreed that [Maison du Chocolat]( textured brown box projected subdued elegance, tilting it toward hostess-gift territory. Whereas the sleek, matte [Recchiuti Confections Black Box]( had a sultry vibe, making it a shoo-in for Valentine’s Day or anniversaries. Next it was time to open up the box and see what was inside. Did the sight of the contents inspire wonder, like the trays of mosaic-like painted confections in the [Richart Initiation]( box? Or were they intimidating, like the hulking, nearly candy bar–sized specimens of [John Kelly Chocolates]( (which prompted one tester to remark, “I cannot imagine eating an entire piece by myself at one time.”). Though we were looking for picks that are the whole package—possessing both style and substance—taste is what matters most. While the splattered, swirled multicolored Jackson Pollock–esque chocolates in the [Kate Weiser Chocolate Artist Collection]( were uniquely eye-catching, the promised flavors (like cherry pâte de fruit and almond gianduja) were often muted or overpowered by the chocolate coating. The [Recchiuti Confections Black Box]( remained our favorite for its expertly crafted chocolates, which show a mastery of flavor and form, and for a broad appeal that continues to be unmatched by the competition. From a fragrant tarragon and grapefruit ganache to a rich, toasty gianduja-filled truffle, the Recchiuti sampler not only offers a smorgasbord of fillings but also nails the flavors of pretty much every one. The early verdict In this round of testing, there was a new pick and an upset. [Richart Initiation]( stood out among the new chocolates we tried, holding its own among our previous favorites. The uncannily vivid flavors—such as a vibrant yuzu caramel and a highly herbal verbena—in the one-bite bonbons were borderline Willy Wonka–esque. We found the box design to be enchanting, with pull-out drawers that held filled chocolates in one tier and stacks of single-origin chocolate disks in the other. The [Michel Cluizel Milk & Dark Chocolate Truffles]( box, previously an alternative pick for a more classic style of chocolates, didn’t measure up in this round of testing. The selection of truffles lacked the elegance of [Maison du Chocolat]( and the allure of the artfully crammed [Recchiuti Confections Black Box](. The flavors also landed somewhat flat. Some of the chocolates had chalky textures, and others bordered on being unfresh. For a more traditional chocolate experience, we still recommend the 24-piece [Maison du Chocolat Coffret Maison Dark and Milk Chocolate](. Though the variety of fillings didn’t match that of the dazzling Recchiuti and Richart selections, the ganaches will please chocolate lovers, and the fruity fillings, like cassis and raspberry, are fresh and bright. What else we’re testing - Pro tablets - Instant printers - Home projectors [View email in browser]( You are receiving this email because you signed up for Wirecutter’s Newsletter. Getting too many emails from us? To stop receiving these, [unsubscribe here](. 
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