How to experience la dolce vita in Italy this summer

Simon Calder’s Travel Week [SUBSCRIBE]( [SUBSCRIBE: £20 FOR 1 YEAR]( June 25, 2023 [View in browser](   SIMON CALDER’S TRAVEL WEEK [The Independent]( [The Independent]( With some of the world's most coveted coastlines, cities brimming with ancient history and unparalleled architecture and art, dramatic mountain peaks and quite possibly the best cuisine in the world, [Italy]( is high on holidaymakers' hitlists for a reason. [La Serenissima: Venice is one of Italy's most popular tourist cities]( But where to begin when planning to sample your own slice of la dolce vita on an Italian break? First up, get your bearings with our [complete travel guide to Italy](, showcasing the big-hitting destinations and the best under-the-radar spots (as well as getting down to the nitty gritty of all the practical information you need to know before a visit). If you're heading for the capital, check out these [lookouts for the very best views of Rome](. Looking for inspiration of where to go on your next Italian city break? Have a gander at our guides to making the most of a trip to [Naples](, Italy’s gateway to the Amalfi Coast, or [Palermo](, Sicily's energetic, charming capital. Ponza scheme One Italian island is far less visited than most: Ponza, a volcanic fragment 70 miles west of Naples, with an excellent beach, good hiking and a wide choice of restaurants and family-run hotels. Ferry links from the mainland take 1-3 hours. Ideal month: September. [ITALIAN ISLANDS]( [Isles of Scilly]( Any port? Portofino, southeast of Genoa, is ridiculously crowded in summer. Yet nearby Porto Venere – with a cheap local bus from La Spezia – has room to move even in high summer. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times of day to appreciate the location. [GENOA GUIDE](   Question of the week   Question of the week           How best to buy train tickets for maximum flexibility in Italy? On an app or at a station ticket office?         Rail travel in Italy is mostly a joy. With plenty of time on your hands, you can roam far and wide on “classic” trains, which trundle across the nation at a relaxed pace for very reasonable fares. Reservations are neither possible nor required, and in my experience there is almost always a seat. Queues at stations are unpredictable, so download the excellent Trenitalia app to your smartphone – and establish a decent data-roaming deal for Italy, if you do not already have one. The system takes a bit of time to get to know you and your chosen credit card. But once you are set up, the English-language version works well. You can book as you are walking to the platform. The app also gives updates on the progress of your train. To make every second count, you can opt for high-speed expresses or night trains, for which advance booking (even just a few minutes ahead) on specific trains is required on the Trenitalia app. The competing high-speed operator, Italo, sells tickets separately through its own app and website (italotreno.it). [A small Italian rail adventure]( [Get £600 off an all-inclusive Croatia trip]( With this deal you save 38 per cent when staying at the TUI BLUE Kalamota Island near Dubrovnik See Puglia on a gourmet foodie tour]( The six-day trip includes a cookery masterclass with locals, as well as wine and olive oil tastings [Save £125 a night at luxury Florence hotel]( The discount applies across certain nights at the the Hotel Ungherese with breakfast included Enjoy a year of unlimited digital access for just £99 £20 ✓ Full access to Premium news analysis ✓ Advert-free reading across web and app ✓ The Independent Daily Edition newspaper ✓ Puzzles, virtual event tickets and more [SUBSCRIBE NOW]( How to... Move to Italy for €1 Always dreamed of running off to live in Italy? You could pick up a house for less than the price of a coffee with the country's €1 homes scheme. [GET INSPIRED]( Hotels Where to stay in Venice For style and service without breaking the bank, here’s the real-world luxury guide to hotels in La Serenissima. [BOOK NOW]( To find the real, slower rhythms of Roman life, try basing yourself in Monti Eliza Goodpasture Travel writer City break What to do in Bologna Italy’s oft-overlooked foodie heavyweight deserves your attention. Here's where to stay, eat, drink and shop on a trip. [GO TO GUIDE]( Under the spotlight Rome's coolest 'hood How to spend a day in Monti, the eternal city’s low-key, local-vibes neighbourhood that's perfectly placed for sightseeing. 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