250 years of comfort and functionality have kept the German brand as relevant as ever.
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May 09, 2020
[How Birkenstocks Became the Perfect Shoe of the Moment](
250 years of comfort and functionality have kept the German brand as relevant as ever.
[How Birkenstocks Became the Perfect Shoe of the Moment](
Birkenstock
In its 250-year history, Birkenstock has been attached to a number of unflattering stereotypes. Whether due to its association with “hippies and latter-day granola crunchers” (according to New York Times) or unflattering links to youth pastors, the German brand hasn’t always been considered fashionable. Over recent years, though, the brand has seen a new wave of popularity for its signature sandals.
Earlier this year, Kanye West graced the May cover of GQ wearing the classic Birkenstock Boston silhouette, while a string of high-profile and unexpected collaborations with the likes of BEAMS, Proenza Schlouer and Rick Owens — who described the sandals as “functional and sexy … maybe the sexiest shoes ever” — have helped to reposition the brand. Despite the new-found fashion links, many of the shoe’s fans are attracted to Birkenstock through the comfort of its contoured cork footbeds.
[How Birkenstocks Became the Perfect Shoe of the Moment](
Birkenstock
“It’s a brand that puts function over form,” says Grailed brand director and long-time Birkenstock wearer Lawrence Schlossman. “Birkenstock is a brand that has always been about the function, the comfort and the durability of the shoe. For me, the anti-fashion fashion element of the shoe is something that I’ve always been drawn to.” Schlossman attributes the brand’s recent rise in popularity to its association with subcultural trends like normcore, placing the brand alongside Patagonia and New Balance 990s.
In that light, Schlossman positions Birkenstock as part of a rebellion against the proliferation of heavily branded streetwear-meets-luxury items. “I think aesthetically it’s a bit of a rebalancing of the scales,” he continues. “It’s a rejection — whether it’s overt or not — of this high-fashion streetwear boom that we’ve seen that then over-saturated the market with a certain type of clothing.”
It’s a rejection of the high-fashion streetwear boom that we’ve seen.
For Birkenstock, this focus on function over form has underpinned the brand’s ethos for the past two and a half centuries. “Functionality is what guides us,” says Birkenstock CEO Oliver Reichert. “People increasingly want realness. We have a real product, its timelessness adds to its appeal, especially in the current time. We are a counterpoint to wasteful fast fashion.”
The brand’s rejection of the hype cycle made headlines in 2018 when Reichert told The Cut that Birkenstock had previously turned down collaborations with Supreme and Vetements. Reichert described the potential collaborations as “prostitution,” while Klaus Baumann, the company’s chief sales officer, added that “it was never about function for them, just logos,” in a 2019 interview with The Financial Times.
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