14 collectors, archivists and aficionados break down their love for the game.
HYPEBEAST Features - Go in-depth and learn more about the culture.
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January 31, 2020
[This is How Experts Buy, Sell and Cherish Vintage Clothing](
Victoria embodies the city’s melting pot.
Teejerker Rodgers
Vintage clothing truly is big business; secondhand shopping will reportedly eclipse fast fashion in coming years, with customers and brands alike earnestly considering the dire need for climate-conscious initiatives. These sustainability-minded consumers inspired the early-’00s rise of various resale and consignment stores, like StockX, Grailed, Vestiaire Collective and Rebag, to name a few..
As these secondhand retailers grew, a smaller sect of collectors, archivists and vintage experts began offering their personal stashes to the public as a curated counterpart to those larger marketplaces. In the past few years, this market has exploded with deep-pocketed celebrities making appointments with top dealers, coveted pieces garnering record prices and once-online-only outposts hitting the road for experiential pop-up events.
Today’s market is fascinatingly mercurial, shaped by ever-shifting user demands and the expanding consciousness of the taste-making curators at its core. Micro-trends flourish and vanish, occasionally gaining lasting relevance as memes in social media fashion groups. For instance, one of the first major trends — Issey Miyake Sport varsity-style jackets — gained enough notoriety to receive a Stüssy parody.
Naturally, that fluid market demands substantial know-how to navigate. To cut through all the noise and hype around secondhand clothing, we spoke with a variety of vintage stores and archivists on everything from where to source hidden gems to what crucial details to consider when shopping online.
Fernando Rangel, Silver League
Emma Wernsdorfer
What got you into vintage clothing and what keeps you interested?
From the onset it was about finding pieces that were unique, but affordable. It’s a great feeling when you stumble onto something you wouldn’t normally be able to find at a retail store. However, our continued interest now stems from digging into the history of these garments, the processes involved in their construction, the story behind them, and we like to share that knowledge via our platforms on Silver League and Unsound Rags.
Where do you look for new treasures?
We source everywhere we can. Whether that be through flea markets, online, or finding garments through other means. It’s important to keep fresh inventory and curate what’s unique and exciting to us. With vintage garments, that’s a lot easier; there are decades worth of items to choose from.
When or why does a vintage piece really speak to you?
There are certain characteristics like fades, wear and patina that we look for in vintage garments, although it varies depending on each style. For archive items we strive to find unique pieces that place an emphasis on construction, material, and design language specific to that designer.
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