Japan is reciprocating the UK’s adoration with a bevy of London stores.
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October 11, 2019
[Why Japanese Brands Are Finally Embracing London](
Japan is reciprocating the UK’s adoration with a bevy of London stores.
MIKEY MASSEY | HYPEBEAST
[NOVER]( Japanese brands have long been the symbol of sophistication in London’s menswear scene. “[They] have an appreciation & deep seated understanding of tradition yet approach apparel in a really forward thinking way,” says Laura Robertshaw, menswear buyer at Liberty. “That marriage of tradition and modernity really resonates with the London menswear scene.” Traditionally, Japanese brands have been difficult to come by outside of their home country, a fact that only made them more desirable for UK shoppers.
Slowly but surely, both physical and e-commerce stores have taken note of this desirability, gradually increasing their range of Japanese brands. Whether it’s MR PORTER, which ran a Japan Edit campaign that saw the e-com store team up with brands like AMBUSH, AURALEE, blackmeans and BEAMS Plus, or NEEDLES, which is one of the most popular brands in London department stores. And most interestingly, increased availability of Japanese wares hasn’t put a dent in customers’ appetites for the product.
Despite the demand, Japanese brands have typically been reluctant to branch outside their home country, with Japan House’s Kylie Clark noting that Japan’s sizable population meant brands simply didn’t have to expand their reach beyond local shores to turn a profit. Japan’s population stands at 126.7 million, which coupled with a healthy tourism industry of nearly three million visitors — with one million coming from China alone — makes it obvious why Japanese brands haven’t been eager to expand. But as Tatsuo Hino, Director of BEAMS & CO’s UK arm, explains, there’s another factor at play in brands’ reticence. “Generally speaking, [Japanese brands] have little hands-on knowledge about the [UK] market itself in terms of market size, preference, consumer behaviours and appetite.”
MIKEY MASSEY | HYPEBEAST
There’s more awareness than ever before about the qualities of Japanese products, and more desire to buy these kind of items, particularly as people search for something more special and less mainstream
This approach is changing, with Nepenthes, 45R, Japan House and Snow Peak all launching stores and spaces in the UK over the last year. For Hino, the change is due to the colliding factors of the world catching up to Japan’s fashion and culture, an increase of international visitors and upcoming events like the Olympics.
But internally, Japan is also facing a major change in its customer base. “Japan has been experiencing a super-ageing society, and many companies are faced with changing demographics. They’re more encouraged to test out the market and trade, engage with overseas markets,” Hino said.
45R has already been ahead of the curve in tapping external markets, as the brand launched its London store in late 2018. The denim specialists have long been known for their painstakingly considered take on clothing. “It has been a dream to open in London for a long time,” said Fumiko Takahashi, London Store Manager. “It was just a case of finding the right location.” Takahashi attributes London’s desire for Japanese goods to the search for something unique.
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