Heritage labels face threats from the athleisure trend and growing demand for sustainable fashion.
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September 13, 2019
[The Denim Industry Needs to Find the Innovation Thread](
Heritage labels face threats from the athleisure trend and growing demand for sustainable fashion.
PIXABAY
In fashion, as in many industries, a lack of innovation often leads to obscurity. And yet, modern blue jeans — that staple fashion product — are almost identical to their classic predecessors that appeared over a century ago. The denim industry can’t afford to stand still, however;[the decline of department stores]( the rapid influx of fast fashion’s influence and the rise of athleisure have all put pressure on the niche and heritage denim market. Some big players have already taken note. [Having gone public]( earlier this year, [Levi’s]( — the unequivocal pioneer of denim — celebrated the 126th anniversary of its iconic 501 denim line with [the launch of a partnership with industry darling Heron Preston](. Such collaborations are necessary for the denim market, which has fallen into the dreaded “mainstream” category.
Denim has not always been ubiquitous with mall clothes, however. Believe it or not, [Che Guevara once feared denim]( was more influential than the entire Red Army. But what was once shorthand for counter-culture has become mass-market. Denim’s widespread adoption may make it a staple in most closets, but consumer demand for trend-worthy or “novelty” items has threatened that stronghold. Today’s consumers are [more inclined towards casual comfort garbs]( (i.e. stretchy and elastic pants). Or, as Andrew Olah, CEO of Olah Inc. and founder of the denim trade show [Kingpins]( puts it, “If you look at what people are wearing at the airport and what people wear when they go shopping, it’s simple.”
According to a report by NPD Group on the denim industry, [the rise of athleisure disrupted denim’s dominance in the casual market, even while the demand for athletic wear has somewhat declined](. But the literal and fiduciary constriction of yoga pants is just one element that heritage denim brands are battling against.
Collaborations as Cultural Relevance
LEVI'S
When compared to the more avant-garde styles in the wider fashion market, denim products have remained structurally close to their origins. In a flooded market, denim brands are largely producing the same product and fighting for their market share. “When you get down to it, brands and retailers are hiring the same people, virtually, to create their products,” Olah explains. “An issue arises in the future, as the industry grows it will get more and more difficult to differentiate your product.”
In order to attract millennial and Gen Z consumers, today’s major denim labels have to look beyond traditional advertising techniques, [as simply advertising their “heritage” isn’t particularly effective for connecting with a younger audience](.
That is what’s cool about collaborations, and it allows you to tell stories that wouldn’t be able to go on their own.
Though omnipresent, collaborations remain an easy way to generate new buzz. When executed properly, these collaborations can give a seemingly stale brand a more “human” feel, but — if poorly launched or executed — collaborations can do more harm than good by leading consumers to question a brand’s authenticity.
[Wrangler]( partnership with the provocative “Old Time Road” rapper [Lil Nas X]( exemplifies a successful strategy that helps the brand align itself with cultural relevancy. The timely collaboration didn’t just generate buzz, but [Bloomberg reported that Wrangler stock prices have surged as much as 17% because of the artist’s endorsement](. In speaking with the outlet, Scott Baxter, CEO of Wrangler’s parent company [Kontoor Brands]( touted the fact that the subsequent restocking of the collaboration sold out.
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