New colours, new size; 5-day power reserve, anti-magnetic. Orisâs Aquis Date series expands with the Calibre 400 in a new size Calibre 400, with its five-day power reserve, anti-magnetism, and a more stable rotor systemânow powering the Aquis Date 41.5mm in three colours With a strong brand philosophy of only ever making products that make practical sense, offered at reasonable prices, Oris, founded in the town of Holstein, Switzerland, in 1904, can look back upon a fairly extensive history of watchmaking and movement-making. Oris have always been concerned with questions such as, what a mechanical watch movement should do, how it can perform better, and how the best possible watch can be produced at the best possible price. In yet another major step towards movement independence, last year, Oris introduced their calibre 400, the new in-house movement from the brandâs stable that substantially raised the bar for modern movements in its price range. Calibre 400 boasts a massive 120-hour power reserve. It makes an accuracy claim of a maximum daily deviation of -3/+5 seconds, which is well within the COSCâs chronometric standard of -4/+6 seconds, even though Oris didnât submit this movement for an official COSC certification. With all this and the very appealing recommended service intervals of 10 years, calibre 400 took the watch industry by storm following its initial launch. While the movement was first introduced in the 43.5mm Aquis Date, it has now made its way into more variations within Orisâs cornerstone collection of dive watches. At a more agreeable size, the 41.5mm edition has also been released in three hues, as opposed to the bigger 2020 edition that only came in blue. These new models are in green and anthracite, in addition to blue. MRP: Starts at â¹2,57,000
For more information, please call our Luxury Watch Helpline on [+91 8725028899](tel:08725028899), [+91 8725028883](tel:08725028883) [Click here to connect with us on WhatsApp]( How calibre 400 set a new standard for Oris and the watch industry Before we go deeper into the new calibre itself, hereâs a bit about Orisâs past success with in-house movements. From the time Oris was founded till the brand resorted to using Sellita and ETA movements in 1981, it had already created over 200 in-house calibres. So Oris were no stranger to in-house movements. But then the quartz crisis hit, and it hit hard. The company, however, braved their way through the plummeting graphs of the Swiss watch market, and changes in ownership. Finally, as the independent company that we know Oris as today, in 2014, on the brandâs 110th anniversary, they revealed their new and aptly named in-house calibre 110, with a 10-day power reserve and a non-linear power reserve indicator. Since then, the brand have unveiled a new in-house calibre every year. Weâve seen the arrival of calibres 111, 112, 113, 114, and, most recently, the calibre 115, which made its debut in the Big Crown ProPilot X of 2019. After a running series of numbers, the brandâs new automatic movement jumped to the number 400, which was not only a mathematical leap, but also a leap in terms of engineering and innovation. Conceptualised with the vision of enhanced efficiency and higher resistance againt wear and tear, it was conceived entirely in-house by Orisâs skilled engineers, and produced using Switzerlandâs extensive network of suppliers. Having taken five years to develop, this movement was also formulated with price in mind so that Oris can continue making timepieces that offer great value for money. A massive 120-hour or five-day power reserveâowing to the twin barrels The modern watch enthusiast enjoys switching between watches throughout the week. However, if you put a standard mechanical watch down for a day or two, it will stop as the power reserve is generally limited to about 42 hours. Orisâs engineers recognised the need of the customer and took care of it with the calibre 400. This movement has a five-day power reserve, so itâll still be running if you put down your watch on, say, Tuesday and strap it back on on Sunday. It delivers this longer period of use via twin barrels, both of which house an extended mainspring, each long enough to store two and a half days of power. All this improves the movementâs efficiency, delivering 85 percent of the mainspring barrel torque, as opposed to an average of 70 percent in a conventional movement. The torque has been reduced in the mainspring which aids the conservation of power by exerting less pressure on the moving parts, while a new wheel design has also been added to the gear train, delivering greater efficiency. MRP: â¹2,66,000
For more information, please call our Luxury Watch Helpline on [+91 8725028899](tel:08725028899), [+91 8725028883](tel:08725028883) [Click here to connect with us on WhatsApp]( Silicon movement components ensure anti-magnetic tolerance of over 2,000 gauss Magnetism is a mechanical watchâs worst nightmare. Strong magnetic forces that we experience in our day-to-day lives can come from mobile phones, computers, refrigerators, magnetic buttons on bags, and so on. So when a watch gets inevitably magnetised, it either becomes less accurate, or can stop altogether. To solve this new-age problem, Oris have engineered the movement with more than 30 non-ferrous and anti-magnetic components, including a silicon escape wheel and a silicon anchor. This is very hard to do and is only done by very few manufacturers. In testing by the renowned Laboratoire Dubois, calibre 400 deviated by less than 10 seconds a day after exposure to 2,250 gauss. For a standard mechanical timepiece to qualify as anti-magnetic, it must be accurate to within 30 seconds a day after exposure to 200 gauss. Calibre 400 comfortably excels here, having recorded one-third of the deviation allowed after exposure to more than 11 times the magnetic force permitted. How Oris managed to offer a 10-year warranty and recommend 10-year service intervals Oris back their technological choices with a 10-year warranty on all Oris watches powered by the new movement. Additionally, with the recommended service intervals of 10 years for the calibre 400 watches, it means that if you get one now, youâll only need to walk into a service centre in 2031, of course barring accidental damage. Now thatâs confidence, and definitely sets a new standard. Oris have chosen to drop the usual ball bearings in the automatic winding system, as this is a typical point of failure in self-winding watch movements. The Oris team came up with a much more reliable system using a sliding-friction clip, which rotates around a fixed pivot that only winds in one direction, making it less complex and reducing wear and tear. This plays an important role in reducing the need for frequent servicing as well, allowing the brand to recommend service intervals of 10 years, while the standard is otherwise three to five. A ânew standardâ in durable automatic movements in Orisâs bestseller Setting the new calibre 400 into an Aquis case was the logical choice last year. The Aquis is a high-performance dive watch, with a versatile, contemporary design, and is usually Orisâs go-to model for their special and limited editions. After all, itâs not difficult to see why the Aquis Date is Orisâs bestseller. Itâs a classic dive watch design, mixed with some tasteful colourways and good case sizes. And now, with the new hues and new size of the Aquis Date Calibre 400, there are more options delivering the benefits of the fine new movement. The shades of blue and green are very typical of the Aquis collection, and speak to the collectionâs instant identity. The anthracite is a little less common, and really stands out from the other two as a very interesting hue that is almost black, but not quite. The new normal for the Aquis Date At first glance, these might seem like regular Aquis Dates. In a way, they now are, since this is the new standard for Oris, which forms the base for this new generation of Aquis Dates. The Calibre 400 edition is the new normal for Aquis. So one should probably get used to seeing the words â5 daysâ on the dial, referring to the five-day power reserve of the new movement. Other features remain the same, such as the water resistance at 300m, the unidirectional-rotating dive-timer bezel with a scratchproof ceramic inlay, and the case still looks substantial and robust despite the smaller size. It features a transparent caseback through which you can enjoy a view of the new movement. The rotor forgoes that signature red usually seen in Oris watches. This was a conscious choice, for a sleeker, skeletonised look and also to visually distinguish what will eventually be the â400 seriesâ of calibres. MRP: â¹2,66,000
For more information, please call our Luxury Watch Helpline on [+91 8725028899](tel:08725028899), [+91 8725028883](tel:08725028883) [Click here to connect with us on WhatsApp]( The easily interchangeable rubber strap and steel bracelet These versions of the Aquis Date comes either with a classic steel bracelet or a sportier rubber strap. The back of the watch reveals Orisâs newest patented development, the âquick strap changeâ system, with a snap-in-place action. A bracelet or strap can be released simply by lifting a flap, without requiring any tools. Both the black rubber strap and stainless steel bracelet are fitted with a security folding clasp with an extension. A ânew standardâ in durable automatic movements Now when Oris launched calibre 400 with their standard Aquis Date and not some splashy new watch, it was clear that they were playing for the long haul; especially now that the Calibre 400 series with the Aquis collection is expanding. Orisâs choice of introducing it first in their bread-and-butter dive watch, and then building on that line reassures us of how accessible this new standard of mechanical watchmaking really is. The quiet, fuss-free performance and reliability of calibre 400 is perfectly complemented by the familiar package of the Aquis Date. This also helps keep costs considerably low, while also meeting every single need of a watch enthusiast. Calibre 400 set out to be the new standard in watchmaking by cutting all the fluff and giving the customers what was sorely missed all those years. Aesthetically, itâs simple and minimalistic for a mechanical movement, with undecorated full bridges interrupted only by the prominent balance wheel and symmetrical twin mainspring barrels. This anti-magnetic, highly-durable, pro-consumer in-house-developed movement within the comfortable familiarity of the Aquis Date is an unarguable deal, and we are certain that this new standard is turning into the new normal. MRP: Starts at â¹2,57,000
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