Zenith’s El Primero A384 Revival arrives in India

A reproduction of the world's first automatic chronograph. The Zenith El Primero A384: a revival of the first watch to house the legendary movement A faithful reproduction of the world's first automatic chronograph There are some watchmaking pursuits that still remain dear to the most prestigious watch houses—precision, thinness, in-house movements, complications, to name a few. Now imagine a small company accomplishing all of those together, in its own workshop, all the way back in 1969. That’s what Zenith did with the El Primero. It was an automatic chronograph movement designed from the ground-up, and one that could measure elapsed time down to 1/10th of a second. This was all achieved mechanically and it furthered Zenith’s reputation as a powerhouse of innovation in chronometry. Fifty years since, the iconic calibre remains in production with a rather dramatic history behind it. The first watch to house the El Primero movement in 1969 was the A384, with a 'panda' dial and barrel-shaped case. To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the El Primero in 2019, Zenith fittingly released a facsimile reissue of the A384. A watch from a series of commemorative pieces that marked El Primero’s milestones, this particular revival is actually accessible to all collectors, as it isn’t a limited edition. Let’s explore the timeless appeal of this truly iconic horological creation. El Primero: the history of the world's most famous movement While automatic movements started becoming popular in the 1940s and 50s, no automatic chronograph movement had been manufactured yet. In 1962, Zenith began developing the idea of creating the first automatic chronograph in watchmaking history. It was competing with several other brands such as Heuer, Breitling, Seiko, Hamilton and others. Instead of considering the easier option to add a chronograph module to a base movement, Zenith had a more ambitious plan: the chronograph function had to be fully integrated within the mechanism and actuated by a column wheel rather than by an easier-to-implement cam. And to make things even more challenging, the beating frequency of the chronograph had to be high enough to make it the most accurate chronograph wristwatch in the world, capable of measuring 1/10th of a second. A relatively small size and a date indication were additional details they were going after. With all these requirements, the bar was raised so high that the project could not be completed in time for the manufacture's centenary in 1965. It would take four more years. In 1969, at a press conference, Zenith announced the imminent launch of the first fully integrated, high-frequency, automatic chronograph movement. Code named '3019 PHC', this movement was renamed 'El Primero', which means 'the first' in Spanish. The El Primero movement was so reliable that Zenith supplied it to other manufacturers and it was used by the world's greatest watchmaking brands in the most legendary timepieces ever created. Video: Discover 50 reasons why the El Primero movement is among the most highly regarded movements ever made The original 1969 watch that housed the first El Primero The Zenith El Primero was the first high-frequency (36,000 vibrations per hour versus 19,800vph of the Chronomatic and 21,600vph of the Seiko 6139) fully integrated, automatic chronograph—the first with a running seconds hand, and it was only 6.5mm thick, even slimmer than traditional chronographs. Zenith and Movado (at the time, the two brands were owned by the same holding) explained these features in their announcement: “The Zenith and Movado watch companies have achieved an extraordinary feat in combining two precision watches in one. It comprises a high-frequency automatic watch with a calendar, along with a timer chronograph allowing time measurements to the tenth of a second. It is equipped with an hour-and-minute timer. This is the first watch of its kind in the world. The extraordinary feature is that both these mechanisms fit in a space smaller than that of a traditional chronograph. This model has all the advantages of a standard watch plus the date, automatic winding, and the chronograph with timers and calendar.” The first El Primero timepiece that appeared in a Zenith advertisement (March 1969) was the A384 reference. For this reason and for the lower reference number, the A384 is often considered to be the first El Primero chronograph to be manufactured. Such an exceptional calibre deserved to be exceptionally tested. In 1970, an A384 Zenith was subjected to extreme testing on the landing gear of a transatlantic flight from Paris to New York, and it still managed to remain accurate to the nearest second, aside from the inevitable time zone difference. A vintage icon revived If we say that Zenith’s 1969 chronograph, the El Primero, has come to be more or less synonymous with the brand, it would hardly be an overstatement. After numerous watches that have taken forward this legacy, this A384 harks back to the original achievement that started it all. Zenith was driven by the idea of reproducing almost everything from the original watch by adopting a reverse engineering approach, wherein every component remained faithful to the original, in form and function. Each part of the original A384 from 1969 was digitised so as to be accurately reproduced, from the faceted steel case to the lacquered, white-and-black tachymeter dial. MRP: ₹6,79,400 For any other information, please call our Luxury Watch Helpline on [+91 8725028889](tel:08725028889), [+91 8725028891](tel:08725028891). [Click here to connect with us on WhatsApp.]( The statement case recreated, with minor concessions for modernity The retro character of this timepiece is quite evident, given that the styling remains largely unchanged from the 1969 watch. The case in radially-brushed steel retains the original dimensions, including the 37mm diameter and thickness of 12.6mm. Holding this watch is like holding a piece of timekeeping history in your hand. It incorporates the same sculpted structure of the original—a barrel-shape with prominent bevelled edges that foretold not just Zenith’s own popular Defy line of watches, but even other sports watch designs over the years. The only differences, or rather improvements, are the sapphire crystal glass instead of an acrylic glass, and the display back replacing the solid steel caseback of the 1969 model, and El Primero 400 chronograph movement—the culmination of half a century of gradual fine-tuning and perfecting of the first El Primero. The El Primero 400—the latest in the family of legendary calibres The 1969 El Primero was first and foremost, a high-frequency 5Hz movement, when the industry standard was no more than 3Hz, or 21,600vph. A higher frequency movement allows for greater accuracy as it is less affected by external disturbances. Like its predecessor, the El Primero 400, which this revival edition runs on, also beats at a frequency of 5Hz or 36,000vph, thus delivering an impressive 50-hour power reserve. The El Primero 400 is also an integrated chronograph⁠—featuring a column wheel and a horizontal clutch. An integrated chronograph is a movement that is designed from scratch as chronograph, as opposed to a modular chronograph, where a module is attached onto an existing movement to make it a chronograph. Integrated chronographs are considered superior to modular chronographs, due to greater stability, higher accuracy and ease of servicing. True to the original—a panda-style dial The dial of the A384 is a faithful reproduction of the original, and it doesn’t have an unnecessary ‘faux-patina’ to overstate its vintage appeal. The matte, white lacquered dial features the same ‘panda’ layout, with black sub-dials and a date window between four and five o’clock. The outer ring on the dial features the tachymetric scale—also in black, further accentuating the contrast. The dial is basically identical to the 1969 A384, with a red central chronograph hand, without Zenith’s star emblem counterweight, which is seen in their more contemporary chronograph watches. Just like the original, the 12-hour chronograph counter at six o’clock is smaller than the running seconds at nine and the 30-minute counter at three. The hands and applied hour markers are done in modern Super-LumiNova with a soft green tone, as opposed to luminous paint that was used back in the day—one of just a few minor updates to this revival. MRP: ₹6,79,400 For any other information, please call our Luxury Watch Helpline on [+91 8725028889](tel:08725028889), [+91 8725028891](tel:08725028891). [Click here to connect with us on WhatsApp.]( A choice of the original signature ‘ladder’ bracelet or a leather strap In this revival, Zenith has also re-issued the signature ‘ladder’ bracelet of the 1969 original, which was uniquely shaped with open central links. Staging a fitting comeback, the ladder bracelet feels as smooth as the original, besides adding oodles of charm to this revival piece. This is indeed a true homage to the idiosyncratic aesthetics that were prevalent in the late 1960s. Its open design with long end-links, thin centre-links, and long gaps in between, not only makes it a comfortable wear, but is strongly evocative of the original. Alternatively, the watch also comes with a black alligator leather strap lined with rubber, completing the vintage look of the A384, while also ensuring contemporary durability. Since the release of the first El Primero A384, the collection has seen a steady evolution, going from strength to strength. Fifty years down the line, it remains almost unrivalled, especially considering the price point at which it is offered. The story of the world’s first high-frequency, integrated, automatic chronograph movement, in many ways, mirrors that of the Swiss watch industry itself—from ingenuity to a crunch and ultimately, resurgence. MRP: ₹7,22,400 (ladder bracelet); ₹6,79,400 (leather strap) For any other information, please call our Luxury Watch Helpline on [+91 8725028889](tel:08725028889), [+91 8725028891](tel:08725028891). [Click here to connect with us on WhatsApp.]( A legendary story of Watchmaking—how Charles Vermot saved the El Primero from destruction At the height of the quartz crisis, the US management of Zenith had lost confidence in the future of mechanical watchmaking, betting on the success of quartz and, that year, they decided to stop the production of mechanical movements. In 1976, the management resolved that the metal of the presses and the tools required to manufacture the movements had to be sold by the ton to the highest bidder. Luckily, Charles Vermot, the Zenith watchmaker in charge of the workshop where every El Primero chronograph movement was assembled, after no less than 2,500 operations, disagreed with this decision, as he believed that mechanical watchmaking still had a future. In order to convince the US management to change their mind, he explained his vision: "Without being against progress, I note that the world often goes through various cycles. You are wrong to believe that the automatic mechanical chronograph will die out completely. I am thus convinced that your company will one day benefit from the whims and fashions that the world has always known." He then asked for permission to keep all the tools necessary for the manufacture of the El Primero movement in a small dedicated workshop but his request remained unanswered. Well aware of the great value of those tools and the related unique know-how, Charles was ready to take the risk to lose his job. With the help of his brother Maurice—also a Zenith employee, who was involved in the manufacturing of the presses—Charles hid all the presses, cams, operating plans, cutting tools and manufacturing plans necessary for the creation of the El Primero movement in one of the 18 buildings of manufacture Zenith. He chose the more isolated store room on the top floor. Since he was violating hierarchical orders, he had to act at night passing the heavy equipment through a passage at the back of the building and climbing 52 steps. Security was not an issue because, as a workshop manager, Charles had all the keys. He then hid everything behind a wall. In all, Vermot managed to save about 150 presses along with many small tools and cams, and equipment worth several million Swiss francs at present value. Without these presses, it would have been impossible to produce El Primero again as they were a part of the trade secret. By 1976, Zenith had lost most of its staff, producing watches powered by ETA or Citizen quartz movements. The rare mechanical movements in use were also sourced from ETA. In 1978, Zenith Radio Corporation sold Zenith Watches SA to a consortium of three Swiss manufacturers, including Paul Castella, a Le Locle entrepreneur, who was very focused on preserving jobs in his region, and wanted to preserve the Swiss industrial and watchmaking heritage represented by Zenith. By the early 1980s the demand for mechanical watches started to grow again. The world's greatest brands now wanted the automatic chronograph once again. There was no movement that could match the accuracy and precision of the El Primero. Brands lined up to buy the El Primero and it turned the fortunes of the brand. It could only be revived because Vermot had kept all the drawings, tools and instructions safe. Thanks to his bold and resolute move, Zenith was still in the position to take the commitment and in 1984, production of the El Primero calibre could begin once more. It saved Zenith and the El Primero was back! [Shop the Zenith El Primero A384 Revival]( [Shop all watches from Zenith]( [Twitter]( [Facebook]( [Instagram]( [YouTube]( Ethos Watch Boutiques India's largest chain of luxury watch boutiques. You are receiving this email because you signed up for communications on our website/at our store. 204-206, Second Floor, Square One Mall, District Centre Saket New Delhi - 110017 [Unsubscribe](