Its true! An H.Moser & MB&F Collab. Its happening.Â
H.Moser & Cie and MB&F collaborate to create an epic tourbillon
Presenting the H.Moser X MB&F flying cylindrical tourbillon
Itâs not uncommon for watch brands to create products that stem from external collaborations, such as those with automobile manufacturers, racing teams, artists, designers, and so on. However, there arenât many collaborations, if any, between a watch brand and another watch brand. Well, this year marked one such pioneering collaboration between two independent Swiss watchmakers that took the horological world by storm. We are talking about H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F, run by Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser, respectively.
These passionate personalities have been long-standing peers with immense regard for each other, personally as well as professionally. Their brands have, in fact, been working together for more than a decade, with Precision Engineering AG, a sister concern of H. Moser & Cie. that supplies MB&Fâs balance springs. To commemorate the 15th anniversaries of both brands, they have launched a pair of limited edition watches that celebrate the partnership of these well-loved independent manufactures that has so far only been behind the scenes. The best part is, the models have brought about a fusion of technical as well as aesthetic elements from both the brands, creating an architectural sense of timekeeping theatre, as well as distinctive intricacies in mechanisms.
From H. Moser & Cie., we have the brand's interpretation of the MB&F FlyingT, called the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon âH. Moser X MB&Fâ. And from MB&F, we have a âMoserisedâ take on the LM101. Here, we delve a little deeper into the H.Moser X MB&F Tourbillon which has signature elements from both brands married into the case of the Moser endeavour collection. Signature elements include
- 42 mm Endeavour Case from Moser
- Fume Dial base dial from Moser
- Cylindrical tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring developed by Moser brands for this project
- Inclined dial from MB&F
- Thunder-dome Sapphire Crystal from MB&F
A fascinating, inclined dial and open display of the cylindrical tourbillon
The Endeavour cylindrical flying tourbillon âH. Moser X MB&Fâ is a visual delight, besides having a highly sophisticated horological mechanism under the hood. While H. Moser & Cie.âs designs are mostly minimalistic, utilitarian, and quite pared-down, this one breaks the mould and feels like an unconventional piece of art on your wrist. Borrowing the concept of three-dimensional movements from MB&F, this crossover offering still flaunts Moserâs signature fumé dials that define the tone of the timepieces, hence retaining the essence of Moser. The hugely domed sapphire crystal glass serves to display an array of impressive mechanical elements.
The âfloatingâ sapphire crystal dial off-centred at six oâclockâat an inclination of 40 degreesâdisplays the time-telling functions. This is a view that is, in a way, meant for the wearerâs eyes onlyâadding to the exclusivity of this timekeeping instrument. This tilted dial is distinctly separated from the aperture for the one-minute flying tourbillon, which ensures balance in layout, as well as unobstructed views of both features. The H. Moser & Cie. emblem is inscribed almost like a watermark on the sapphire crystal time-telling dial, thereby preserving the elegance of this creation. The leaf-shaped hour and minute hands promise sufficient legibility.
The fumé base dial comes in funky blue, burgundy, cosmic green, off-white, and ice blue.
The technically resplendent flying cylindrical tourbillon
- The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is powered by the new automatic HMC 810 three-dimensional movement, which beats at 21,600vph, offering a significant 75-hour power reserve.
- The movement encompasses 29 jewels and 184 components.
- It has an automatic bi-directional pawl winding system.
- The movement can be seen through the exhibition caseback.
- It is equipped with a one-minute flying tourbillion finished with skeletonised bridges.
- The off-centred timekeeping sub-dial is mounted on a blackened conical gear-train ensuring optimal torque transmission from one plane to the other. It appears to fan out like mechanical peacock feathers from certain angles.
- The calibre employs a cylindrical hairspring, same as that developed by Precision Engineering AG for MB&Fâs LM Thunderdome timepiece.
A closer look at the cylindrical hairspring used in the flying tourbillon
Invented in the 18th century, the cylindrical hairspring closely resembles a worm or corkscrew, rising perpendicularly around the upper rod of the balance staff. It was commonly used in historical marine chronometers at the time. A cylindrical hairspring offers the advantage of developing concentrically, and therefore geometrically, since it works perfectly along the axis of its pivots. The relatively tall cylindrical balance spring almost resembles an organ in the body, concentrically at work, making it a visual treat. This gives it an edge over flat hairsprings, whose opposite ends tend to exert forces on the pivots, even with the Philips or Breguet terminal curves, which were specifically developed to partially correct the non-concentric opening of the hairspring spring. Fitted with a Breguet overcoil at both attachment points, the cylindrical balance spring reduces pivot friction and greatly improves isochronism. Thanks to its specific shape, the cylindrical balance spring is far more difficult to produce and it takes 10 times longer to make than a traditional hairspring spring.
The larger-than-life domed sapphire crystal glass : a signature feature of MB&F
The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is presented in a steel case, measuring 42mm in width and 19.5mm in thickness,. It comes with the iconic larger-than-life domed sapphire crystal glass seen in many MB&F watches and featured most prominently in the MB&F Thunderdome Collection. It not only accommodates the three-dimensional mechanismâcylindrical balance spring and allâbut also adds to the visual spectacle of this show-stealer. The crown is engraved with an âMâ, as seen in most other H. Moser watches, and it is positioned at nine oâclock, which further enhances the unconventional aesthetic of this timepiece. The timepiece is worn on a classic hand-stitched black alligator leather strap, which balances out the idiosyncratic dial. It is accompanied by a steel folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo.
Proving that brands can collaborate, not just compete
Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser are pleased with the product of this pioneering partnership. Each brand has benefitted from each otherâs watchmaking signatures expertise, and savoir faire, resulting in watches that reflect the best of both their worlds. It proves that brands can collaborate instead of competing. Will a partnership like this pave the way for many more such collaborations? Any horological enthusiast would look forward to it. We certainly do!
âWhen I called Edouard [Meylan] (CEO, H. Moser & Cie., seen on the right) to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials and the âConceptâ series (Moserâs watches devoid of any markings on the display). Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on the condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines. After an initial moment of surprise, I gave it some thought. Being 50-percent Indian and 50-percent Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking! I therefore agreed and suggested the FlyingT model, which is particularly dear to my heart.â
â
Maximilian Büsser, CEO, MB&F
Watch this video for a more dynamic view of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, as both CEOs talk about the crossover project
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