Dappered | In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches

[Dappered | In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches]() --------------------------------------------------------------- - [In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches](#1) - [Most Wanted Affordable Style – November 2019](#2) - [Steal Alert: 35% off J. Crew’s Partially Constructed Moon Mills Tweed Sportcoats](#3) [In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches](r/Dappered/~3/dFZPoiKGzB8/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email) Posted: 13 Nov 2019 03:00 AM PST Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. [Here’s why.]( [Seiko’s New 5KX Line: Not Quite the Same as the Old Boss]( About the Author: Kris P. is a Philadelphia architect, development manager, and professor who is an enthusiast of old stuff, his wife and two daughters, and driving sports cars. Editor’s Note: At post time, availability for the new 5KX watches here in the U.S. is scattered at best. [Macy’s]( and [Kohl’s]( of all places, seem to be your best bets for early drops. Is it better to get recycled or fade away? Seiko’s affordable lineups just experienced both. When [Seiko announced]( the new 5 Sports lineup this summer, it was apparent [that the vaunted SKX lineup]( was officially dead, and had been up-cycled into the new fashion line. Drowned out by the hype over that model’s discontinuation, Seiko quietly put their 55+-year-old Seiko 5 line out to pasture. (Officially, [they’ll only be for sale on Amazon](, with no further recognition on Seiko’s website.) The new 5 Sports have big shoes to fill in both cases. How do they do? Well, the nature of your relationship with the lines’ predecessors will likely have a huge impact on your opinion. [In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches | Dappered.com]( The new, [SRPD71 from the 5 Sports “Suits” Line](. Low to mid $200s depending on source and sale. Background Enough has [been]( [written]( [about]( [the]( [SKX]( that there’s little I could add here. Introduced 23 years ago, [the SKX007](/[009]( and their brethren are legendary ”beater” dive watches with a cult following and a cottage industry supporting aftermarket modifications. The lineup has been on an horology death watch for the past half-decade or so, as its technical specs and market position made less and less sense in Seiko’s modern lineup. But you don’t get rid of a winner, and production chugged along as demand for the iconic diver stayed strong. [In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches | Dappered.com]( The Old: The legendary [Seiko SKX 007](. The Seiko 5 line was introduced in 1963 as an affordable and capable entry-level sub-brand, and since then has included more references than you can shake a stick at. All are bound by five defining principles: an automatic movement, day/date in a single window, significant water resistance, a crown at 4 o’clock ([with some exceptions for the 5 line](), and durable case and bracelet. Just as the SKX was a gateway to dive watches, the Seiko 5 watches played the same role of introducing quality, reliable automatic sport and dress watches to the market. Bright colorways and aggressive styling appealed especially to the younger buyer. [In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches | Dappered.com]( Old vs. New Left: The old [SKX 007](. Right: one of [the new 5 Sports, nicknamed the 5KX](. Take the physical parameters of the SKX and splash in the flair and ethos of the 5 line, and voila, [you have the new 5 Sports line](. Instead of 2 lines in a variety of configurations, capabilities, and cases, the Seiko 5 Sports lineup will consist of [27 different watches](, sharing a common movement (4R36) and case (the old SKX case) but with diverse and different combinations of case finishes, dials, and straps. Identified by the SRPD internal code – but already nicknamed the 5KX – the line has been broken up into five categories of colorways and finishes: [Sports, Suits, Specialist, Street, and Sense](. The simple but reliable 7S26 movement from the SKX and many Seiko 5s is out and has been replaced with the Seiko 4R36. This type of upgrade was a super-common after-market modification for SKXs, and addresses a big knock on the 7S26 – the lack of hand-winding and hacking. Style, but a slight step back in terms of Substance? Like a fashion model who was scouted from a construction job-site (which actually happened to a friend of mine), the SKX case and dial clean up very well in 5 Sport form. But in the process of going from Carhartts to a tux, they get noticeably softer and a bit less capable. [In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches | Dappered.com]( The new logo, and script “automatic” on the dial. Same 42mm diameter as the old SKX. The first change that hits you is the new 5 logo (controversial, but to me an improvement over the old 5) and the scripted “Automatic” on the dial. It’s all very sharp and stylized, but also signals that aesthetics are going to rule the day now. The flat, printed Seiko logo is now in elegant raised metallic letters, while the utilitarian red dive 200M dive rating is gone from the dial. On the two watches I ordered, the hour markers are outlined in silver, which is a subtle move that has a huge effect in upping the quality feel of the watch face. Some of the other colorways are really aesthetically aggressive – with blacked out dials and PVD coated cases – and they look great. The 42mm case is the same as the old SKX, but this time around, the finish absolutely pops. The polished portions are bright, and the seams are sharp. An exhibition caseback shows off the upgraded Japanese-made (not Malaysian) 4R36 movement. The lugs are drilled now for easier strap changes. True to reputation, you can practically read a book on a moonless light with the lume – it visibly glows in the shade on a sunny day. [In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches | Dappered.com] Lume. Yes. It has it. And then some. As for the softness? This is where your feelings towards the SKX will start to flavor your opinion of the new 5 Sports. The SKX’s screw-down crown? Gone. The ISO 6324 rating? Gone. The stainless steel screwdown caseback? Gone. Lumed pip on the bezel? Gone. The 200M water resistance noted on the dial? Gone. But before you complain, pause and consider whether you think of the new 5KX line as a replacement for the SKX, or, as a fashion watch. The 100M rating is a step back from the SKX, [but it’s great for an automatic fashion watch](. In general, when you match any of the 5 Sports lineup against its non-Seiko competitors in the price range, they represent excellent quality and value. And for a fashion watch, a screw down crown is just one more thing to break. [In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches | Dappered.com] Hacking & hand winding Japanese movement. But no screw down crown or screw down caseback. But for many SKX wearers, the dive rating wasn’t literally about diving, but perhaps body surfing, or fishing, or surviving an overturned canoe 15 years down the road. Between it’s shiny finish and its backed-down specs, the 5KX just doesn’t have the “go anywhere do anything” vibe of its predecessor. The SKX wasn’t just a tough watch – it was a rare item (see Levis 501s, Jeep Wranglers, waxed cotton shooting jackets, etc.) that looked better with a little bit of wear and tear. The new 5KXs? Many of them are just polished enough that they’ll look tired, not rugged, when they patina and fade. So, if you’re the kind of person like me, who laments that you can’t get good stuff at Army/Navy stores anymore, then the 5KX evolution away from utility is disappointing. [In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches | Dappered.com]( Prettier? Perhaps. Not as rugged? For sure. Similarly, making a blanket statement comparing the SRPD lineup to the preceding Seiko 5 line is as hard as comparing it to the SKX is easy. The 5 lineup was so diverse – [Amazon alone is currently carrying dozens of Seiko 5 models](. It ranges from two of the best affordable [field]( and [dress watches]( on the market to some poorly designed [“dive-style”]( models that seemed like cheap fashion watches next to Seiko’s big-boy divers. With this in mind, I can’t help but wonder if this one-case-replaces-all strategy is a mistake. I rarely wear my SKX007 or 009 to work, because its 13.25mm case thickness (which makes sense for an ISO rated diver) just doesn’t fit under my dress shirt cuff with ease. A dress watch should have a certain sleekness that these watches are never going to have [with their thick cases and dive bezels](. Seiko was wise to ensure that the massive aftermarket modding world continues to be fed with new SKX-spec parts, but I can’t help but wonder if they should have introduced at least one or two slimmer cases in parallel, especially for the dressier references. There are unconfirmed rumors of a Seiko 6 line may be in the works (the 6th element being a sapphire crystal) that may have more styles, so perhaps I’m not the only one who thought this. Reflections on two, new, specific Seiko 5 Sports models [The blue SRPD71 from the “Suits” line]( caught my eye immediately. The previously mentioned silver-ringed hour markers really refine the look, and this model’s red-tipped seconds hand (a “Suits” thing, apparently) is a very nice touch. The white chapter ring, maybe less so, though it does make the whole watch seem smaller. Annoyingly though, the bezel and the face colors don’t quite match each other in person – closer examination showed a sort of ombre effect in the face’s blue. The SRPD71 also uses vintage-y off-white lume in the hour markers, but not on the the pure-white chapter ring. The steel mesh bracelet that the 51 shipped with is sharp – not really my style, but sharp, and vaguely vintage-y as well. With the crisp finishing and inconsistent coloring, I am not sure what this watch is trying to be. It almost feels like 27 varieties may have split the designers’ attention. [In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches | Dappered.com]( [The blue SRPD71]( and [the black SRPD55](. [The SRPD55 from the “Specialist” line]( boasts the same embellished logos and hour markers as the 71, and is probably the most direct comparison to the iconic [SKX007](, with it’s simple black face and bezel. Side by side, the enhanced finishing of the SRPD is clear – it pops like a newer and fresher SKX. The SPRD55 is a good looking watch, and again, I’d buy it over most of its non-Seiko competitors. But its similarity to the SKX007 only highlights the steps back in capability. The rest of the line holds some pretty [punchy]( and [unique]( colorways that offer a little more distinction and fun, and more of a visual step forward from the SKX than this basic black model does. Value The Seiko 5 Sport MSRPs for $350, but I was able to get both watches shown [for about $200 each from Macy’s during their Friends and Family sale](. Macy’s should be an Authorized Dealer, but for some reason, neither watch came with a warranty card or manual, and the blue watch arrived at my door in a Citizen box. (WTF, Macy’s? I WANT to support you during the retail apocalypse, but you’re not making it easy.) [Kohl’s is offering a similar deal]( with coupons on some alternate colorways. If this trend holds up, you won’t have to wait longer than the next department store holiday sale to pick one up for $200 or less. [In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches | Dappered.com] This is not an SKX 007. I think the 5 Sports are a great value at $200. They are reliable, well-made fashion watches with nice detailing and enough variety that there’s sure to be one in your style. If you’re aggrieved by the lack of capability vs. the SKX, [you can still pick up a new SKX for the mid to high $200s](, plus Seiko officially made a gazillion bulletproof SKXs in 23 years that can be found any day on the secondhand market. For the full $350 MSRP, I’d probably pass on the 5 Sports, though, and wait for a more-capable [Seiko Turtle]( to come on sale, or go for another quality brand’s entry-level diver. Further Thoughts I have to wonder if the inevitable outcome of this shared platform/many options launch is mass customization. (Seiko, if you haven’t considered this, call me!) I would have liked to have ordered one of the more extreme options from the line of 27, but most of them aren’t to market in the US yet, which I’m sure hints at the difficulty of keeping inventory for 27 fit and finish combos, plus various straps. With some fantastic watches ([Christopher Ward](, [Dan Henry](, [others]() eschewing brick and mortar stores, and with youth being the traditional Seiko 5 market, online sales make sense. Plus, the intense modding culture around SKXs shows that customization is a big draw. Being able to customize your watch from the factory and have it delivered to your house is the logical next step. If/when it happens, you can say you read it here! [In Review: The New Seiko 5 Sports 5KX Watches | Dappered.com]( ff/Dappered?a=dFZPoiKGzB8:9F00yK1w9Ac:yIl2AUoC8zA ff/Dappered?a=dFZPoiKGzB8:9F00yK1w9Ac:qj6IDK7rITs ff/Dappered?a=dFZPoiKGzB8:9F00yK1w9Ac:gIN9vFwOqvQ [Most Wanted Affordable Style – November 2019](r/Dappered/~3/j-3MQ57x4X8/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email) Posted: 12 Nov 2019 02:00 PM PST Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. [Here’s why.]( Whether you’re looking for gift ideas or a quick upgrade for yourself, expect these to come around about once a month. You’ll find new arrivals and old favorites, especially good deals, or maybe something pricey to keep an eye on for future sales. The potential best of the best, which you may or may not have seen already. Got a tip on something that deserves to end up in the monthly Most Wanted? Send those in to joe@dappered.com [J. Crew Travel Shoehorn – $24]( [J. Crew Travel Shoehorn]( Shockingly useful. You wouldn’t think having an additional, small shoehorn stashed in your luggage would make a difference, but if you’ve always got a dopp kit packed (whether it be for early morning gym visits / constant travel), it makes a big deal. I stash my mini shoe horn (not this particular one) in one of the interior side pockets of my Filson medium duffel. And there it lives. And gets used all the time. It has a happy, mostly quiet home, and I have a shoe horn on hand (and foot) at all times when I need it most. This particular J. Crew shoe horn goes on sale quite often. Would make a great stocking stuffer. [Bonobos Jetsetter Stretch Wool Blazer in Charcoal Plaid – $450]( [Bonobos Jetsetter Stretch Wool Blazer in Charcoal Plaid]( I understand that big, bold patterns and colors are in style for the moment, but there’s something to be said for not dressing like [an inflatable bounce house](. You can still inject a little personality. See the plaid above. Should be eligible for a code at some point. [Huckberry Rhodes Dean Cap Toe Suede Boot – $220]( [Huckberry Rhodes Dean Cap Toe Suede Boot]( Oh good grief. Those boots are something. And I’m guessing they used the same suede that [they used on their excellent Rhodes Chukkas](? If so, [that stuff is gonna be buttery smooth](. Blake Stitched. Made in Portugal. Fits half a size large. [Nordstrom Holiday 3 Pack Socks – $30]( [Nordstrom Holiday 3 Pack Socks]( Reineer in flight. Happy little Christmas trees. And… um…. T-Rexs in Santa Suits? This all checks out. Ships and returns for free. Have a very [Rawr-y]( Holiday. Little arms little arms help me unwrap my presents little arms! [Suitsupply Italian Wool Bomber – $399]( [Suitsupply Italian Wool Bomber]( Bombers are in. Wool is best. Fabric is from the famous Italian mill, Vitale Barberis Canonico. Ships and returns for free since it’s Suitsupply. Seems to run slim, like true slim, which is pretty standard for Suitsupply goods. A splurge, but something you might wear and look great in for a very, very long time. [BONUS: Nike Air Tailwind in Legion Green – $90]( [Nike Air Tailwind in Legion Green]( For a dude who is so anti [Nike Killshot]( ([they’re overrated]()… these sure do speak to me. In the Legion Green at least. I know. I sit on a throne of lies. Want more most wanted? [Click here]( for the top 5 most wanted lists from previous months. ff/Dappered?a=j-3MQ57x4X8:xXgvOqr0zZo:yIl2AUoC8zA ff/Dappered?a=j-3MQ57x4X8:xXgvOqr0zZo:qj6IDK7rITs ff/Dappered?a=j-3MQ57x4X8:xXgvOqr0zZo:gIN9vFwOqvQ [Steal Alert: 35% off J. Crew’s Partially Constructed Moon Mills Tweed Sportcoats](r/Dappered/~3/G0ZcXWsagFE/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email) Posted: 12 Nov 2019 07:04 AM PST Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. [Here’s why.]( [J. Crew: 35% off select w/ PARTY]( These Moon mills, wool/cotton, lightly constructed tweed sportcoats are usually excluded from J. Crew’s codes and promos. As are the Kenton chelsea boots. As is, one would think, the Barbour. Not today. [No sir](. [J. Crew]( - [Ludlow Slim Fit Moon Mills Tweed Sportcoat – $193.70]( ($298) - [Ludlow Slim Fit Moon Mills Tweed Trouser – $109.20]( ($168) in case you want to go full tweed suit. - [Classic Fit Moon Mills Tweed Sportcoat – $193.70]( ($298) - [J.Crew Editions X Barbour Barn Jacket – $292.50]( ($450) - [Goodyear Welted Kenton Chelsea Boots – $161.20]( ($248) Yes, there are some suits and what not in this sale as well, but, [a lot of us are sticking with Spier]( or [Suitsupply when it comes to our suiting choices](. Although if you’re looking for a velvet shawl collar blazer… [they got those on sale too](. Code PARTY (and really, who’s not ready to Parrrrrrtyyyyyyyyyyyy) runs through Sunday the 17th. That’s all. Carry on. ff/Dappered?a=G0ZcXWsagFE:SB-8b85KRcU:yIl2AUoC8zA ff/Dappered?a=G0ZcXWsagFE:SB-8b85KRcU:qj6IDK7rITs ff/Dappered?a=G0ZcXWsagFE:SB-8b85KRcU:gIN9vFwOqvQ You are subscribed to email updates from [Dappered Style Mail](). To stop receiving these emails, you may [unsubscribe now](. Email delivery powered by Google Google, 1600 Amphitheatre Parkway, Mountain View, CA 94043, United States