Pierogi Papi takes on Monday Night Foodball
[READER]( [Food & Drink]( November 17, 2023 All Max Glassman had was a torn, water-stained recipe card. Thatâs what was left of his Busia Roseâs pierogi recipe. âIt was what to do with the water and the flour, but it wasn't how much and there were no ingredients,â says Glassman. âIt just said warm water, and then it was letting the mixture sit out before you start kneading it a little bit and letting it proof. So I had to go off of that.â Glassmanâs cooked at all levels all over the city since he was 16, starting as a busser at his momâs Italian restaurant server job. But last year he left an executive chef gig that had him questioning his purpose in the industry. In all that time heâd never really cooked for himself. âA lot of people heard that I wanted to stop cooking. And everybody was like, âWell, maybe you can cook for yourself. You'll fall back in love.ââ Thatâs when his dad gave him Busia Roseâs recipe card: Two things happened after that: He fell back in love working in a kitchen again at the great [Moonwalker Cafe]( in Avondale, and he fell back in love launching a pop-up based on his own twists on Busia Roseâs pierogi recipe. Youâre gonna fall in love too if you come to Ludlow Liquors this Monday, November 20, when [Pierogi Papi]( headlines [Monday Night Foodball]( the Readerâs weekly chef pop-up. With a scrap of the past, Glassman puts his own spin on Busia Roseâs recipe. For one thing, he adds egg to the dough, leading to softer, more supple, pasta-like dumplings. After that he stuffs them according to whim, parboils them, then pan fries, so they take on a light, crispy exterior, like a pot sticker that yields to that familiar, soft seductive pierogi embrace. Glassman pops up with some regularity at Consignment Lounge, and his home base at Moonwalker. There [Arlene Luna and Jack Blue]( are Foodball vets and so, in fact, is Glassman, since he threw down in the kitchen for [Tripping Billy]( last June. This Monday heâs bringing his popular potatoâcheese âtraditionalâ variety, which he finishes with a garnish of dehydrated, fried sauerkraut, and sour cream on the side. Next thereâs a braised beef neck and caramelized onions number: âI'll take the braising liquid. I'll reduce it and then I'll throw it back in and reincorporate it back into the meat, so it gets super freakinâ unctuous and nice.â Heâs also working up a batch of Roseâs potato salad with roasted spuds. Itâs a carbtastic Monday Night Foodball, going down at 5:30 PM at 2959 N. California in lush, utopian Avondale. Meanwhile, marvel at the remaining Foodballs of 2023.
[Pierogi Papi does dumplings at the next Monday Night Foodball](
Max Glassman takes his busiaâs nearly lost recipe and runs with it THIS MONDAY at Ludlow Liquors. by [Mike Sula]( | [Read more]( â [Not-so-secret speakeasies](
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[Issue of
Nov. 16 â Nov. 29, 2023
Vol. 53, No. 3]( [VIEW/DOWNLOAD ISSUE (PDF)](
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