PinÌatta's Mesoamerican-inspired menu takes on Monday Night Foodball
[READER]( [Food & Drink]( Before the Spaniards showed up, nobody ate carne asada super burritos in this hemisphere. Nobody celebrated their birthday with a sombrero-topped flan. The Aztecs definitely didnât start off dinner with queso fundido washed down with âInfamousâ margaritas. neither will you, when plant-based, precolonial taqueria PinÌatta takes over the kitchen at the Kedzie Inn this November 7 for [Monday Night Foodball]( the Readerâs weekly chef pop-up in Irving Park. In 1967 Emilio and Santiago Guererroâs dad opened Lakeviewâs El Jardin, but they didnât grow up around the killer, high-octane margarita the spot became infamous for either. âWe didnât grow up super close to our dad, so we never were taught âThis is traditional Mexican,ââ says Santiago, who works as a server at Etta. (Emilio is the kitchen manager at the Publican). But during the pandemic the brothers gave themselves an education in the cuisine of precolonial Mesoamerica: âHow many things from Spain were brought over here and ingrained in Mexican culture like pork and wheat and dairyâthings that just werenât here before. We found a lot of it leaning towards being plant-based. A lot of the diet was corn, beans, and squash.â They launched PinÌatta two Novembers ago, and though their menus evolved beyond a strictly orthodox approach to ancient cuisine, itâs still often vegan or vegetarian, and always uncommon. This Monday, theyâre headlining with a cashew cheese-stuffed yellow corn masa tetela with toasted pumpkin seed mole, riffing on the triangle-shaped antojito common to Puebla and Oaxaca. Thereâs rice and beans, specifically heirloom mayocoba puree with garlic confit, epazote, and lacto-fermented tomato water. (The brothers are also âbig fermentation nerds.â) And then thereâs a vanilla-scented coconut milk kabocha squash flan to finish. âI grew up Mexican American and I didnât even know what epazote was until a couple years ago,â says Santiago. âPinÌatta is a way to figure out our identity to a degree. Weâre still learning about our own culture.â Itâs all vegan and all Mexican, friendsâand walk-in orders only, starting at 5 PM at 4100 N. Kedzie. No need to preorder. And Iâm not saying Jon Pokorny wonât make you a killer margarita, but he will have something special up his sleeve. Meanwhile, gape the full fall Foodball schedule below: - November 14: The [return]( of barbecue ronin [Heffer BBQ](
- November 21: An all-star [Umamicue](
- November 28: Thanksgiving Break
- December 5: Spotlight on Lao cuisine with [Laos to Your House](
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