Gaze upon their menu and rejoice.
[READER]( [Food & Drink]( Logan Squareâs Superkhana International has been an incubator throughout the pandemic for young chefs sometimes short on experience but always long on big ideas. Chefs [Zeeshan Shah]( and Yoshi Yamada have provided kitchen space and encouragement for all sorts of wild side hustles, and Iâve profiled some of them, like Keralan condiment king Thommy Padanilam of [Thommyâs Toddy Shop]( hotteok hoodlums Michele Back and Dylan Heath of [Banana Phone]( and Malaysian food [power couple]( Jennifer Pou-Alesi and Mike Alesi of [Kedai Tapao](. We also hosted the latter two for [Monday Night Foodball]( the Readerâs weekly chef pop-up series at the Kedzie Inn in Irving Park. This Monday weâre dipping into the Superkhana talent pool once again. Neither Uma Jupiter nor Oskar Singer got their start in the industry at Superkhana, but thatâs where they met. Jupiter, who works front-of-the-house, is a former cheesemonger and French food aficionado; Singer is a former tech worker turned baker and fermenter who works on the line. Singer, who goes by the Instagram handle [Rye Humor Baking]( started a bread and pastry delivery service near the beginning of the pandemic, and has collaborated on pop-ups with the likes of [Vargo Brother Ferments]( [Jennifer Kim]( of [Alteconomy]( and [Four Letter Word]( coffee. His fearless adventures in fermentation have produced everything from goat garum to orange-fennel miso to honeysuckle vinegar. âI get bored really easily, so I like to taste things that are gonna disorient me a little,â he says. âAnd a good way to do that is to let them ferment for a while.â Singer and Jupiter collaborated last November at Ludlow Liquors on a pop-up they titled Château Picklebone, and once again theyâre paying homage to the food of the fabled rustic French country estate surrounded by a fondue moat stocked with pickled mackerel. This time theyâre rocking cured sardine fougasse (aka French focaccia) with nori butter; dry-aged half chickens with fried spuds (an homage to steak frites), and a laminated brioche topped with a funky cheese semifreddo and cherry nasturtium vinegar sauce. âThat one is stupid complicated,â says Singer. âIt has every French baking technique in one very high-fat brioche. Umaâs basically the creative vibe and direction all of these dishes.â Gaze upon their menu and rejoice. âItâs got roots and grains and BUTTER whateverâ
Toasted whole oat (think farro) salad tossed in beet and turnip sofrito topped with seasoned yogurt and compressed beets: $6-$10 âKing Oskar Sardine Fougasseâ
House (literally in my fucking house) cured sardines mixed into einkorn fougasse, served with nori butter (thanks, [@_immortalmilk]( $8-$15 âChimken Freaksâ
Dry-aged half chicken on a pile of fried taters with some weird sauces slopped on top and a phat disc of classic maître dâ butter: $20-$30 âButterbutterbuttercreamandyolksandohsomefunkycheeseâ
Laminated durum brioche stuffed with pecan maple syrup paste; braided, bruleed, and topped with a semifreddo of funky cheese and honey, then some cherry-soaked nasturtium flower vinegar sauce: $8-$15 Prices are on a sliding scale to encourage industry folk to get in the door. Theyâre taking [pre-orders right now]( and as always there will be a limited number of walk-ins available (though thatâs not very likely when it comes to the chicken). Donât sleep. Please come vaccinated or donât come at all. Meanwhile, Monday Night Foodball abides. See the schedule below. - February 28: [Thattu]( and Jaye Fong of [Maa Dei]( - March 7: âHot Mix Beefâ with [Titus Ruscitti]( aka [@chibbqking]( and Eric May, aka [@easy_eats_chi]( - March 14: [Joey Pham]( aka [@flavorsupreme]( and [Kelly Ijichi]( of [Momâs Chicago]( present âMSG (Monday Snack Gathering).â - March 21: [Lorraine Nguyen]( aka [@lolo_agogo]( and Joey Pham, aka @flavorsupreme, present âSUPRANOS: a Vietalian Experience.â - March 28: [Desi-style barbecue]( with [Dhuaan BBQ Company]( - April 4: [Shin Thompson]( and [Liga Sigal]( of [Bokuchanâs]( - April 11: A second act from Oskar Singer (aka [@ryehumorbaking]( - April 18: Ricky Hanft of [The Wurst]( - April 25: Roel Estanilla of [@pigandfire](
[Château Picklebone opens its fabled gates for Monday Night Foodball](
Check out the menu from Uma Jupiter and Oskar Singer of Rye Humor Baking for the Readerâs next guest chef pop-up at the Kedzie Inn
by [Mike Sula]( [Avenida Peru takes it to the street](
Lima-style street food moves out of the home kitchen onto Central Avenue.
by [Mike Sula]( 2016 [Make street food at home with help from a new cookbook by the grilling and drinking collective ManBQue](
by [Mike Sula](
[Now extended thru March 5!]( enthusiasts will have the opportunity to go on a Reader journey, a trip down memory lane from the â70s to present day at the Newberry Library. [Issue of
Feb 17 - March 3, 2022
Vol. 51, No.]( [Download Issue](
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