I did a quick calculation: Mom mad at meâor pizza? What the hell. I got in
[READER]( Almost 50 years have passed, but I still remember the particulars . . . It was a Saturday nightâSeptember, 1972. I was a 16-year-old senior at Evanston High School. The boys and I had spent the evening at the Valenciaâa theater demolished years agoâwatching The Gang That Couldnât Shoot Straight. It was 10, maybe 10:30. We were standing on Sherman, wondering what to do next. A car pulled up. The window rolled down. It was Schwage. âHey, guys, like the car?â he said. âNot too cool.â That was Schwageâs favorite line. He said it all the time. Emphasis on the word too. So it came outââNot TOO cool.â Schwage was a friend of my friends. About 20âwhich seemed ancient back then. I thought it was weird that a guy that âoldâ would want to hang out with high schoolers. He said, âLetâs grab a pizza.â My friend hopped into his car. But I hesitated. My mother ran a tight ship. Curfew was 11:30. If I got into that car, Iâd be lateâno doubt about it. âThatâs okay,â I said. âIâll walk home.â âCâmon, Benny,â my friends said. âDonât be a wimp. Weâre just getting pizza.â You must understand. I love pizza. Always have. Always will. I did a quick calculation: Mom mad at meâor pizza? What the hell. I got in, and away we went. Living in the fast lane. Schwage drove west to Dodge, then south to Howard. And thatâs how I discovered a restaurant called Gullivers. We ordered the pizza in the pan, which Iâd never had before. I took that first bite and, man, it was like that moment in Ainât No Mountain High Enough. Diana Ross versionânot Marvin Gaye and Tammi Terrell. The part near the end. Where the orchestration builds to a crescendo and here comes Diana Ross, singing her heart out. âAinât no mountain high enough . . .â Thatâs what it was like biting that first bite. So chewy and cheesy. So piping hot. The crustâlike a pie. A quasi-religious experience. Like Diana Ross herself burst into that dining room. By the time I got home, it was well after midnight. Pacing the house in her bathrobe was my momâone step away from hopping into her own car in search of her wayward son. âMom, I know youâre mad,â I said. âBut this pizzaâoh, my God, you gotta try this pizza!â Thus began my nearly 50-year food affair with Gullivers. An affair that would have lasted for the rest of my life, had Gullivers not closed last week. A victim, in part, of COVID. I know, itâs oddly indulgent for me to mourn the end of a restaurant, what with all the carnage and heartache in the world. So think of this as a parable about the randomness and unpredictability of life. Over the years, Iâve been to Gullivers hundreds of times. Took my wife there when we were courting. Took her family when they came to town. Took our kids. And our kidsâ friends. I swearâat one time or another, Iâve taken half the millennials in Chicago to Gullivers. And, yes, I eventually took my momâand she loved it. Yet, for all the meals Iâve consumed there, I might never have even known about it, had I not hopped into the car of Schwageâa guy I barely knew and never saw again. To Gullivers, I say: Thanks for 50 years of pizza, chicken wings, garbage salad, broasted chicken, and red wine. And to Schwage, whoever you have become and wherever you may be . . . âNot TOO cool!â
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