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Whiskey Slugging, Noodle Slurping, and Dumpling Housing

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chicagoreader.com

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reply@chicagoreader.com

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Fri, Jan 29, 2021 08:02 PM

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How would you like to see an out-of-control MAGA-style mob get its collective ass kicked by a bunch

[READER]( [Food & Drink]( How would you like to see an out-of-control MAGA-style mob get its collective ass kicked by a bunch of skilled, disciplined immigrants? I didn’t realize how much I needed to see that until I got to the penultimate episode of Warrior, a Kung Fu western set in San Francisco, now streaming on HBO Max. Loosely based on a screenplay treatment written by Bruce Lee (and produced by his daughter), it’s a two-season battle royale that pits warring Chinese tongs against crooked, racist cops, an Irish proto-labor union, and the xenophobic politicians that egg them on. Sound familiar? It’s surprisingly timely in many ways, not the least of which the aforementioned donnybrook, based on a two-day, anti-coolie white riot that trashed San Francisco’s Chinatown in 1877. This period of time is also where we got the term “hatchet man,” which originally referred to Chinese assassins and their preferred weapon of choice. The fight choreography is dizzying and relentless throughout, broken up by lots of “sticky” bumping and grinding among the “onions” (Chinese immigrants) and “ducks” (the white establishment). Warrior was a Cinemax production until that network stopped making episodes, and it moved up to the big house. But there’s no word on whether HBO will renew it, just as the main character, an unstoppable gangster badass played by Andrew Koji, begins to glimpse his potential as a revolutionary. But because this is a food newsletter, I’m obligated to comment on the edible content, which is less nuanced. There’s lots of whiskey slugging, noodle slurping, and dumpling housing, with the notable exception of two scenes: one in which the leader of the vicious Fung Hai Tong (direct descendants of Genghis Khan) waterboards an adversary with fermented mare’s milk; and another when Koji and his sidekicks are introduced to Mexican food at a fight tournament: a fiesta of chips and salsa and Taco Bell burritos. I mean, I guess. What’s clear is that nobody consulted a food historian for that scene, but overall the show has been the diversion I’ve needed during the increasingly tedious and frustrating pursuit of accountability since January 6. It makes you wanna keep your hatchet sharp while you’re waiting. Sincerely, [BIPOC bartenders shake it up]( Chicagoan Davíd Leon Jr. is among the mixologists featured in a new short film following people of color in the industry. By [Noëlle D. Lilley]( [@NoelleDLilley]( [When the Mangalitsas meet the Red Wattles]( For the first time in the midwest, a Wisconsin farmer brings rare (and delicious) heritage hog breeds to market. By [Mike Sula]( [@MikeSula]( [Giving myself a break: on oyatsu]( How a snacking ritual makes the Chicago winter bearable By [Nina Li Coomes]( [@nlcoomes]( [Build your own Chicago bar cart]( The at-home bar cart starter kit that supports local businesses By [Jenna Rimensnyder]( [@j_rimensnyder]( [Issue of Jan 21 - Feb 3, 2021 Vol. 50, No. 9]( [INDOOR DELIGHTS]( [Download Issue]( (PDF) [View this e-mail as a web page]( [DONATE]( [@chicago_reader]( [/chicagoreader]( [@chicago_reader]( [Chicago Reader on LinkedIn]( [/chicagoreader]( [chicagoreader.com]( [Forward this e-mail to a friend](. Want to change how you receive these e-mails? You can [update your preferences]( or [unsubscribe from this list](. Copyright © 2021 Chicago Reader Store, All rights reserved. You were subscribed to the newsletter from Chicago Reader Store Our mailing address is: Chicago Reader Store 2930 S. Michigan Ave.Chicago, IL 60616 [Add us to your address book](

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