Imran Amed’s Weekly Letter: Hedi Slimane🕴️

The designer has always been an arch perfectionist, a quality that has been central to his success but which clashes with the demands on creative directors today. ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0SLaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzI3MDQyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1ib2ZfbG9nb1cFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TODAY: SATURDAY, APRIL 27, 2024 LONDON — Back in March 2018, I sat down with Hedi Slimane in Los Angeles for a private dinner, just two months after he was appointed creative, artistic and image director of Celine. When I arrived at Craig’s in West Hollywood, Hedi was already there, dressed in his signature skinny tailoring. This week on BoF, Robert Williams reported that [he may be leaving Celine](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0S9aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL2x1eHVyeS9jYW4tY2VsaW5lLXdvcmstd2l0aG91dC1oZWRpLXNsaW1hbmUvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWludHJvVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk), now the third largest fashion brand at LVMH with around €2.5 billion in revenue, and revealed that one of the sticking points in the “thorny contract negotiations” has been about Hedi’s need for control around communication and his lack of willingness to engage with the fashion media. These characteristics can clash with the demands of the job of a creative director, which increasingly requires a level of openness Hedi has never been comfortable with. Our rendezvous in Los Angeles was not for a formal interview, just an opportunity to get to know each other. I had never met Hedi before, but he had a reputation of being reclusive and shy. I had been an admirer long before I worked in fashion, from the time when he took the industry by storm at Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. This was an opportunity to meet one of fashion’s biggest and most elusive stars, the man who popularised the hugely influential and widely copied skinny silhouette, an aesthetic which he remains committed to up until today. At Dior, Hedi built a devoted fan following — known as the “Slimaniacs” — that is rare for a fashion designer. Even Karl Lagerfeld famously shed his weight so he could fit into Hedi’s slim Dior Homme suits. One of my most treasured wardrobe items from that era is a beautifully cut stone grey peacoat which I bought from Browns on South Molton Street in London. They had a special selection of items in petites tailles, made for small people like me and also for a legion of female fans who wanted the Hedi look: the ultimate in haute bourgeois Parisian chic. After years of wearing this coat, the wool is fraying a bit, but it is still in good condition. I will never throw it away. Whenever I wear it, I feel strong and confident. Hedi and I didn’t know each other when we met that night in Los Angeles, but we had a bit of history. Five years after Hedi surprised the fashion world and left Dior Homme, he became creative and image director of Yves Saint Laurent. I had a [run-in with the Saint Laurent PR team](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0S_aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL29waW5pb25zL25ld3MtYW5hbHlzaXMvYS13YWtlLXVwLWNhbGwtZm9yLXlzbHMtcHItdGVhbS8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9aW50cm9XBXNwY2V1QgpmKHCJLGb9dXLuUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~), who took a heavy-handed approach to control the narrative around Hedi’s rebranding of the historic house. As a result, both the respected fashion critic Cathy Horyn and I were banned from his first Saint Laurent show. Hedi went on to transform Saint Laurent into a billion-dollar business for Kering. But all of that seemed to be in the past. To be invited to have dinner with Hedi was an olive branch, and an opportunity to get to know a designer I really admired. Over Caesar salad, beef brisket and post-dinner espresso and chamomile tea, we got to know each other as human beings. Throughout our conversation, Hedi was compelling, curious and engaging. We didn’t talk much about fashion, per se. We talked about life in Los Angeles, about recent work BoF had done on topics related to gender identity and disability, about surfing and Donald Trump. [→ READ MORE](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0S3aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL29waW5pb25zL2x1eHVyeS90aGUtb3RoZXItc2lkZS1vZi1oZWRpLXNsaW1hbmUvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWludHJvVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) Plus, here are my other top picks from our analysis on fashion, luxury and beauty: TOP STORIES [LUXURY](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0TFaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3RvcGljcy9sdXh1cnk_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09RFI0NTU1NzVCSkNKM0ZCNVcyWldVQUtGM0EmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzFfdG9waWNXBXNwY2V1QgpmKHCJLGb9dXLuUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) [The Prada Exception: How the Trend-Setting Group Bucked Luxury’s Uneven Slowdown](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP4QGAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9icmllZmluZ3MvbHV4dXJ5L3RoaXMtd2Vlay1pbi1mYXNoaW9uLWhvdy1wcmFkYS1vdXRwYWNlZC1vdGhlci1sdXh1cnktcGxheWVycy8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09RFI0NTU1NzVCSkNKM0ZCNVcyWldVQUtGM0EmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzFfdGl0bGVXBXNwY2V1QgpmKHCJLGb9dXLuUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) By Robert Williams ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP4QGAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9icmllZmluZ3MvbHV4dXJ5L3RoaXMtd2Vlay1pbi1mYXNoaW9uLWhvdy1wcmFkYS1vdXRwYWNlZC1vdGhlci1sdXh1cnktcGxheWVycy8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09RFI0NTU1NzVCSkNKM0ZCNVcyWldVQUtGM0EmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzFfaW1hZ2VXBXNwY2V1QgpmKHCJLGb9dXLuUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~ [This week, Prada and Miu Miu reported strong sales as LVMH slowed and Kering retreated sharply. In fashion’s so-called “quiet luxury” moment, consumers may care less about whether products have logos and more about what those logos stand for.](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP4QEAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9icmllZmluZ3MvbHV4dXJ5L3RoaXMtd2Vlay1pbi1mYXNoaW9uLWhvdy1wcmFkYS1vdXRwYWNlZC1vdGhlci1sdXh1cnktcGxheWVycy8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09RFI0NTU1NzVCSkNKM0ZCNVcyWldVQUtGM0EmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzFfZGVrVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [READ MORE](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP4QEAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9icmllZmluZ3MvbHV4dXJ5L3RoaXMtd2Vlay1pbi1mYXNoaW9uLWhvdy1wcmFkYS1vdXRwYWNlZC1vdGhlci1sdXh1cnktcGxheWVycy8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09RFI0NTU1NzVCSkNKM0ZCNVcyWldVQUtGM0EmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzFfY3RhVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [WORKPLACE & TALENT](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0TPaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3RvcGljcy93b3JrcGxhY2UtdGFsZW50P3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPTJVWkRXR1ZMRjVBSURCR0RYQ0VQU0szM0dZJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV8yX3RvcGljVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [The Rise and Fall of Noncompete Clauses, Explained](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0T6aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL3dvcmtwbGFjZS10YWxlbnQvdGhlLXJpc2UtYW5kLWZhbGwtb2Ytbm9uY29tcGV0ZS1jbGF1c2VzLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzI3MDQyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT0yVVpEV0dWTEY1QUlEQkdEWENFUFNLMzNHWSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfMl90aXRsZVcFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) By Sheena Butler-Young ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0T6aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL3dvcmtwbGFjZS10YWxlbnQvdGhlLXJpc2UtYW5kLWZhbGwtb2Ytbm9uY29tcGV0ZS1jbGF1c2VzLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzI3MDQyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT0yVVpEV0dWTEY1QUlEQkdEWENFUFNLMzNHWSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfMl9pbWFnZVcFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ [A US regulator has banned most uses of the clauses, which started as a way for fashion companies to prevent senior executives from walking off with trade secrets, but have become a standard retention tool.](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0T4aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL3dvcmtwbGFjZS10YWxlbnQvdGhlLXJpc2UtYW5kLWZhbGwtb2Ytbm9uY29tcGV0ZS1jbGF1c2VzLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzI3MDQyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT0yVVpEV0dWTEY1QUlEQkdEWENFUFNLMzNHWSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfMl9kZWtXBXNwY2V1QgpmKHCJLGb9dXLuUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) [READ MORE](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0T4aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL3dvcmtwbGFjZS10YWxlbnQvdGhlLXJpc2UtYW5kLWZhbGwtb2Ytbm9uY29tcGV0ZS1jbGF1c2VzLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzI3MDQyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT0yVVpEV0dWTEY1QUlEQkdEWENFUFNLMzNHWSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfMl9jdGFXBXNwY2V1QgpmKHCJLGb9dXLuUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) [DIRECT-TO-CONSUMER](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0TRaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3RvcGljcy9kaXJlY3QtdG8tY29uc3VtZXI_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09QU83WDRRWkQ0NUVBQk5HNVZLV09LWjZPSFEmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzNfdG9waWNXBXNwY2V1QgpmKHCJLGb9dXLuUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) [How Emerging Brands Can Build DTC Businesses](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP4QBAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9hcnRpY2xlcy9kaXJlY3QtdG8tY29uc3VtZXIvaG93LWVtZXJnaW5nLWJyYW5kcy1jYW4tYnVpbGQtZHRjLWJ1c2luZXNzZXMvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUFPN1g0UVpENDVFQUJORzVWS1dPS1o2T0hRJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV8zX3RpdGxlVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) By Susanna Lau ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP4QBAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9hcnRpY2xlcy9kaXJlY3QtdG8tY29uc3VtZXIvaG93LWVtZXJnaW5nLWJyYW5kcy1jYW4tYnVpbGQtZHRjLWJ1c2luZXNzZXMvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUFPN1g0UVpENDVFQUJORzVWS1dPS1o2T0hRJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV8zX2ltYWdlVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk [In London, where independent labels have been hit hard by the implosion of key stockist Matches, brands like Clio Peppiatt, Marfa Stance and Completedworks have grown direct-to-consumer businesses that peers can learn from.](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0T_aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL2RpcmVjdC10by1jb25zdW1lci9ob3ctZW1lcmdpbmctYnJhbmRzLWNhbi1idWlsZC1kdGMtYnVzaW5lc3Nlcy8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09QU83WDRRWkQ0NUVBQk5HNVZLV09LWjZPSFEmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzNfZGVrVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [READ MORE](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0T_aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL2RpcmVjdC10by1jb25zdW1lci9ob3ctZW1lcmdpbmctYnJhbmRzLWNhbi1idWlsZC1kdGMtYnVzaW5lc3Nlcy8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09QU83WDRRWkQ0NUVBQk5HNVZLV09LWjZPSFEmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzNfY3RhVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [LUXURY](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0TFaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3RvcGljcy9sdXh1cnk_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09RVNQRFFVMkwzQkdJUEFERlk3RkhORDRHRDQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzRfdG9waWNXBXNwY2V1QgpmKHCJLGb9dXLuUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) [Can Celine Work Without Hedi Slimane?](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0TtaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL2x1eHVyeS9jYW4tY2VsaW5lLXdvcmstd2l0aG91dC1oZWRpLXNsaW1hbmUvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUVTUERRVTJMM0JHSVBBREZZN0ZITkQ0R0Q0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV80X3RpdGxlVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) By Robert Williams [After growing the brand’s annual sales to nearly €2.5 billion, the star designer has been locked in a thorny contract negotiation with owner LVMH that could lead to his exit, sources say. BoF breaks down what Slimane brought to Celine and what his departure could mean.](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0TraHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL2x1eHVyeS9jYW4tY2VsaW5lLXdvcmstd2l0aG91dC1oZWRpLXNsaW1hbmUvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUVTUERRVTJMM0JHSVBBREZZN0ZITkQ0R0Q0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV80X2Rla1cFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) [READ MORE](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0TraHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2FydGljbGVzL2x1eHVyeS9jYW4tY2VsaW5lLXdvcmstd2l0aG91dC1oZWRpLXNsaW1hbmUvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPUVTUERRVTJMM0JHSVBBREZZN0ZITkQ0R0Q0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PXRvcF9zdG9yeV80X2N0YVcFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) [GLOBAL MARKETS](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0TNaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3RvcGljcy9nbG9iYWwtbWFya2V0cz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzI3MDQyNCZ1dG1fdGVybT1BRFlZSlE0V05ORlJaQ0dQU05IRkVHVzdaQSZ1dG1fY29udGVudD10b3Bfc3RvcnlfNV90b3BpY1cFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) [How Fashion Entrepreneurs Are Surviving Crises in South Africa](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP4QPAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9hcnRpY2xlcy9nbG9iYWwtbWFya2V0cy9ob3ctZmFzaGlvbi1jb21wYW5pZXMtbmF2aWdhdGUtc291dGgtYWZyaWNhcy1zdGF0ZS1vZi1kaXNhc3Rlci8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09QURZWUpRNFdOTkZSWkNHUFNOSEZFR1c3WkEmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzVfdGl0bGVXBXNwY2V1QgpmKHCJLGb9dXLuUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~) By Yola Mzizi [Resourceful leaders are turning to creative contingency plans in the face of a national energy crisis, crumbling infrastructure, economic stagnation and social unrest.](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP4QNAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9hcnRpY2xlcy9nbG9iYWwtbWFya2V0cy9ob3ctZmFzaGlvbi1jb21wYW5pZXMtbmF2aWdhdGUtc291dGgtYWZyaWNhcy1zdGF0ZS1vZi1kaXNhc3Rlci8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09QURZWUpRNFdOTkZSWkNHUFNOSEZFR1c3WkEmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzVfZGVrVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [READ MORE](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP4QNAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9hcnRpY2xlcy9nbG9iYWwtbWFya2V0cy9ob3ctZmFzaGlvbi1jb21wYW5pZXMtbmF2aWdhdGUtc291dGgtYWZyaWNhcy1zdGF0ZS1vZi1kaXNhc3Rlci8_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX3Rlcm09QURZWUpRNFdOTkZSWkNHUFNOSEZFR1c3WkEmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9dG9wX3N0b3J5XzVfY3RhVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [BoF PROFESSIONAL Join now and enjoy your first 30 days for just $/£/€1](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0SoaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL21lbWJlcnNoaXBzL3BhY2thZ2VzP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWJvZnByb19tb2R1bGVfY3RhVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [START TRIAL](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0SoaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL21lbWJlcnNoaXBzL3BhY2thZ2VzP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWJvZnByb19tb2R1bGVfY3RhVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) MULTIMEDIA [PODCAST](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0TBaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL3BvZGNhc3RzP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPTVDRUZBTldIQVpHNU5FTkE1WjJZVENUWVhBJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PW11bHRpbWVkaWFfMV90b3BpY1cFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) [The BoF Podcast | How Calvin Klein Taps Into Culture](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP4QCAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9wb2RjYXN0cy9tYXJrZXRpbmctcHIvdGhlLWJvZi1wb2RjYXN0LWhvdy1jYWx2aW4ta2xlaW4tdGFwcy1pbnRvLWN1bHR1cmUvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPTVDRUZBTldIQVpHNU5FTkE1WjJZVENUWVhBJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PW11bHRpbWVkaWFfMV90aXRsZVcFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) By Imran Amed ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP4QCAWh0dHBzOi8vd3d3LmJ1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uLmNvbS9wb2RjYXN0cy9tYXJrZXRpbmctcHIvdGhlLWJvZi1wb2RjYXN0LWhvdy1jYWx2aW4ta2xlaW4tdGFwcy1pbnRvLWN1bHR1cmUvP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV90ZXJtPTVDRUZBTldIQVpHNU5FTkE1WjJZVENUWVhBJnV0bV9jb250ZW50PW11bHRpbWVkaWFfMV9pbWFnZVcFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ SPECIAL FEATURE ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0SnaHR0cHM6Ly9pbnNpZ2h0cy5idXNpbmVzc29mZmFzaGlvbi5jb20vcGFnZXMvY29udGFjdC11cz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzI3MDQyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1zcG9uc29yZWRfaW1hZ2VXBXNwY2V1QgpmKHCJLGb9dXLuUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~ Unlock Growth With BoF Insights Advisory BoF Insights is The Business of Fashion’s data and advisory team, providing a unique left-brain, right-brain perspective that combines the analytical rigour of a strategy consultancy with the cultural awareness of a creative agency. We partner with leading fashion and beauty clients to help them sustainably grow their brands and businesses for the long term. Using proprietary AI tools, BoF Insights provides differentiated and data-driven advice on brand positioning, customer behaviour, merchandising planning and go-to-market strategy. [Get in touch](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0SdaHR0cHM6Ly9pbnNpZ2h0cy5idXNpbmVzc29mZmFzaGlvbi5jb20vcGFnZXMvY29udGFjdC11cz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzI3MDQyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1wcm9tb1cFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~) to understand how BoF Insights can help your company to succeed. [CONTACT US](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0SlaHR0cHM6Ly9pbnNpZ2h0cy5idXNpbmVzc29mZmFzaGlvbi5jb20vcGFnZXMvY29udGFjdC11cz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzI3MDQyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1zcG9uc29yZWRfY3RhVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) The Business of Fashion AGENDA-SETTING INTELLIGENCE, ANALYSIS AND ADVICE FOR THE GLOBAL FASHION COMMUNITY. CONNECT WITH US ON ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0QeaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuaW5zdGFncmFtLmNvbS9ib2YvVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0QqaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuZmFjZWJvb2suY29tL2J1c2luZXNzb2ZmYXNoaW9uVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0QXaHR0cHM6Ly90d2l0dGVyLmNvbS9Cb0ZXBXNwY2V1QgpmKHCJLGb9dXLuUht0cmlzdHJhbWJhbGR3aW45MEBnbWFpbC5jb21YBAAAACQ~ ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0QuaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cueW91dHViZS5jb20vdXNlci9CdXNpbmVzc29mRmFzaGlvblcFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0Q0aHR0cHM6Ly9vcGVuLnNwb3RpZnkuY29tL3Nob3cvNlkxU1R0NlNHRG5QYzhBZER6R016blcFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ ~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0RSaHR0cHM6Ly9wb2RjYXN0cy5hcHBsZS5jb20vZ2IvcG9kY2FzdC90aGUtYnVzaW5lc3Mtb2YtZmFzaGlvbi1wb2RjYXN0L2lkMTIyNTIwNDU4OFcFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~ [CONTACT US](mailto:professional@businessoffashion.com) [ETHICS POLICY](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0ScaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2Fib3V0P3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWZvb3Rlcl9ldGhpY3MjZXRoaWNzVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [SPONSORSHIP & ADVERTISING](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0SWaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL21lZGlhP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWZvb3Rlcl9zcG9uc29yVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) [JOB OPPORTUNITIES](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0SiaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2NvbnRhY3Q_dXRtX3NvdXJjZT1uZXdzbGV0dGVyX2RhaWx5ZGlnZXN0JnV0bV9tZWRpdW09ZW1haWwmdXRtX2NhbXBhaWduPURhaWx5X0RpZ2VzdF8yNzA0MjQmdXRtX2NvbnRlbnQ9Zm9vdGVyX2pvYnMjd29yay13aXRoLXVzVwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) This email was sent to {EMAIL} Update your [preferences](~/AAAHagA~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_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) or [unsubscribe](~/AAAHagA~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_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk) from this list. All services provided are subject to our [Privacy Policy](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0SlaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tL2xlZ2FsP3V0bV9zb3VyY2U9bmV3c2xldHRlcl9kYWlseWRpZ2VzdCZ1dG1fbWVkaXVtPWVtYWlsJnV0bV9jYW1wYWlnbj1EYWlseV9EaWdlc3RfMjcwNDI0JnV0bV9jb250ZW50PWZvb3Rlcl9wcml2YWN5I3ByaXZhY3ktcG9saWN5VwVzcGNldUIKZihwiSxm_XVy7lIbdHJpc3RyYW1iYWxkd2luOTBAZ21haWwuY29tWAQAAAAk). The Business of Fashion Ltd The Business of Fashion, Surrey Building, 1 Surrey St, Temple, London, WC2R 2ND, United Kingdom [businessoffashion.com](~/AAAHagA~/RgRoDw5wP0SOaHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYnVzaW5lc3NvZmZhc2hpb24uY29tLz91dG1fc291cmNlPW5ld3NsZXR0ZXJfZGFpbHlkaWdlc3QmdXRtX21lZGl1bT1lbWFpbCZ1dG1fY2FtcGFpZ249RGFpbHlfRGlnZXN0XzI3MDQyNCZ1dG1fY29udGVudD1mb290ZXJfaG9tZVcFc3BjZXVCCmYocIksZv11cu5SG3RyaXN0cmFtYmFsZHdpbjkwQGdtYWlsLmNvbVgEAAAAJA~~)