Whisky lover's guide to Japan

Hi, it's Brad! I'm here to stoke Japan wanderlust and slake your thirst for whisky news and tips you can use [View in browser]( [Bloomberg]( Hello fellow enthusiasts. My name is [Brad Japhe](, and I’m a frequent contributor to Bloomberg Pursuits, most commonly specializing in spirits ([like the best of the year!](). And if there’s anything that excites me as much as a properly aged whisky, it’s the refined flavors of Japan. The combination of the two elicits a multiplicative effect. So you can approximate my elation when I deplaned at Haneda Airport late last month for my first tour of Japanese distilleries in over four years. I also came for the food, of course; and the skiing; and the country’s singular brand of luxury lodging. But we’ll get to all that later. First and foremost: the booze. Virtù Head Bartender Keith Motsi mixes up a Takara, the bar’s signature cocktail, a sort of Japanese whisky Old Fashioned spiked with Chartreuse and garnished with a gold leaf. Photographer: Brad Japhe Absence truly does make the heart grow fonder and, in the case of Japanese whisky, the palate whetter. Since my last time here, the global supply of the patiently aged native nectar has dwindled from frustratingly scant to virtually nonexistent. Nevertheless, in the high-end hotels, bars and restaurants of Tokyo you can find it rather readily—and what feels like a bargain, especially with a strong dollar-to-yen exchange rate. To wit, along the stunning back bar of [Virtù](, within the 39th floor lobby of the newish Four Seasons Otemachi, I spotted Hibiki 30 for under $300 a pour. And this is a swanky cocktail lounge, mind you. At the rare American venues able to secure an allocation, it can be listed at over $1,000. That’s for one dram, folks! WHILE WE WAIT FOR A SECOND ROUND: Bloomberg Pursuits is starting a Spirits Club for its readers, which will share exclusive liquor news, build a tasting community and offer access to special cocktail events and releases. It’s going to be informal for now, but [sign-up here to get on the list](. Are you also a fan of luxury timepieces? Separately e-mail your name and address to [AskPursuits@bloomberg.net](mailto:AskPursuits@bloomberg.net?subject=Watch%20club%20signup) to get on that Watch Club list. Same deal, private access to top-shelf timepieces. You can now grab a bottle of Hibiki 30 stateside for a cool $5,000. It’s worth it. Source: Beam Suntory The Japanese whisky drought is an economic reality that’ll get worse before it gets better: whisky production involves market soothsaying, and three decades ago nobody anticipated the skyrocketing demand for Japanese juice. Certainly not Hibiki’s parent company, [Suntory Holdings Ltd](. The explosion really only started about a decade ago. So even if shrewd whisky makers started laying down more liquid into cask immediately thereafter, we’re still looking at a handful of years before we see a surfeit of double-digit age statement whiskies coming out of the country. You can thank/curse Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible for kickstarting the category’s meteoric rise. In 2014, he named Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013 Edition the best whisky in the world. That bottle now sells for as much as $18,000 on secondary markets. Courtesy House of Suntory But that’s a blessing in disguise. It encourages me to explore younger stuff from some of the 29 such upstarts that have proliferated in the past six years, according to [Nomunication](, the preeminent online authority on the subject. Here are two places worth watching wherever you are in the world. I start my survey in Iiyama, about an hour and half outside of Tokyo by bullet train. The appropriately named [Iiyama Mountain Farm Distillery]( is tucked into the rippled earth of Nagano prefecture, backdropped by the Japanese Alps. More on why whisky distillers—even beyond Japan—are reformulating their prized expressions. Source: Suntory What the operation’s name lacks in creativity, it more than accounts for by way of process. A small team of artisans are crafting whisky here using malt that’s grown right in their backyard. A new set of shiny copper pot stills and adjoining tasting room are coming soon. I tasted several samples of whisky that had spent between 2 to 2.8 years in sherry cask as well as some liquid which has been plucked from ex-Masala barrels. This stuff is showing incredible promise at a young age. I would not be upset if a bartender served me a pour of it neat at anything under $20. Eventually it will come out older under the company’s Kiyokawa label. So be on the lookout for that. Worth a detour: you can find an abundant supply of snow monkeys and ramen at Jigokudani Yaen Koen, just a 30-minute drive from the distillery’s front door. Photographer: Brad Japhe From there I fly north to [Niseko, a resort region]( of Hokkaido renowned more for its [world-class powder]( than its whisky-making prowess. [Niseko Distillery](aims to change that. Opened in late 2021, it’s too new to offer any actual whisky, which by Japanese law much be aged for a minimum of three years. But during a free tour of its bright and shiny interior, I do get to try the brand’s new-make distillate, fresh off the still. It’s showing well even before it hits the barrel, thanks to this funky, over-ripened fruit note that it imprints upon the tip of my tongue. Afterwards, if you want the classic experience, it’s an hour-long descent from the mountains into the coastal village of Yoichi where [its eponymous distillery]( exists on the opposite end of the spectrum from Niseko. It was built in 1934 by Japanese whisky founding father Masataka Taketsuru and operates under the Nikka brand. Yoichi is an even more magical pilgrimage in the snow. Photographer: Brad Japhe When we arrive, chunky snowflakes flurry through the air, a sharp contrast against the red pagoda roofs defining the property. We warm up by ducking into a room dominated by six outsized copper pots. Here they are still fired as they were nearly a century ago: with direct heat from coal. It has to be continuously shoveled in underneath the monstrous vessels, by hand, in order for them to remain operational. Soon we will be making our way back up into the mountains, to check out the preternaturally hip bar scene of Hirafu. But first: karaage and wagyu. Always, karaage and wagyu. [Holy cow, I’ve missed this place.]( Connect with Brad via [Twitter]( or [Instagram]( If you can’t make it to Japan just yet. It may be a while until I return to Japan again, so if you’re like me or even if you’re planning your first adventure, here’s some experiences I’ve found stateside that are effective in transporting me to my happy place across the Pacific between trips. Scroll down for my travel guide for tips and inspiration once you do get there. [Aman New York]( Midtown’s Fortress of Solitude, and the city’s most expensive hotel, feels like you’ve portaled to the Far East from the first step inside. Chef Takuma Yonemaru’s sushi omakase at Nama helps, too. [Sake No Hana]( If you want to try a life-changing melon (yes, I wrote what I wrote, see my travel guide below), this NYC Tao Group venue is flying in the highfalutin fruit fresh on a weekly basis—with Japanese ice, too. [Kumiko]( Chicago’s top-rated Japanese dining bar is the brainchild of wunderkind Julia Momose. She literally wrote the (James Beard Award-winning) book on the high art of Japanese bartending. [Nakaji]( It’s wild to say this earnestly, but this hidden Edomae-style sushi den in Manhattan’s Lower East Side actually has a more expansive collection of rare Japanese whisky than anything you’d can even find in Japan [Providence]( At this two Michelin star standout in Los Angeles, Kim Stodel has been quietly and stoically sustaining a drinks program that’s entirely worth of whatever ends up on the plate. The Japanese Penicillin is meticulously assembled table side with clear ice carved by hand.  What else is on my mind. - [A masterclass in seriocomic revelry](, Shrinking on Apple TV+ features a super snarky Harrison Ford… On a weekly basis? Don’t mind if I do.  - The fourth and final season of Succession promises to be that [rare serial that exits on its terms](, at the top of its game. Will Logan Roy enjoy the same fate?  - This IMDB synopsis alone: “An American woman is stranded in Tokyo after breaking up with her boyfriend. Searching for direction in life, she trains to be a ramen chef.” [The Brittany Murphy vehicle]( premiered in 2008, and I just don’t know how I only found out about Ramen Girl now. For actual noodles, here’s a chef-sourced list of the best ramen in Tokyo. Photographs by Takashi Yasumura for Bloomberg Pursuits - The aptly-titled album Japanese Traditional Music is available via Apple, and I find it to be [the most soothing collection of instrumentation]( to either work to, or simply sit in repose.  - If you’re going to karaoke—Japan, or anywhere—nothing beats “Africa” by Toto. Everybody knows it. Everybody loves it. It’s not too long. And it builds up to a [joyous falsetto-fueled release](.   - We want the funk. Give up the funk! Are you into peated whisky? Well, [Jamaica is the Islay of cane spirit]( with its sometimes challenging but always rewarding high-ester rum, which produces head-spinning flavors and aroma known as hogo. Now back to Japan… Because there’s just too much good stuff to tell you about! And to be fair, this is just scratching the surface. My Pursuits freelance colleague Brandon Presser recently wrote about [what it’s really like to visit Japan now](, and also spoke on the topic on [All the Hacks podcast](. Between us two, you’ll have a head start on an amazing trip. IN TOKYO, I highly suggest securing your stay at the aforementioned [Four Seasons Otemachi](. The sleek property high above the city’s financial district opened during the height of the pandemic in Sept. 2020, so many international tourists are just now getting their first taste of the five-star hotel. At roughly $400 for a full omakase, [Nana-chome Kyoboshi]( in Ginza is the world’s most expensive tempura—and it’s downright delicious. It’s the first and only tempura restaurant to ever receive three Michelin stars. It’s also where I consumed the juiciest melon of my entire life. I never imagined a single piece of fruit could be so transcendent. And yet one of the myriad joys of Japan is that you can enjoy exceptionality at virtually any price point. Seriously, don’t miss this tonkatsu. Photographer: Brad Japhe I won’t forget that tempura-melon double feature nor the crispy battered shrimp and pork at [Tonkatsu Suzuki inside Tokyo Station](. No exaggeration whatsoever when I say that this was the best tonkatsu of my life. It was fried fresh right in front of me, served with rice, endless cabbage, miso, pickled vegetables and a local lager on draft. Total price tag: $15! That dynamic range defines the cocktail scene just the same. Hiro is my cocktail hero! That’s me with the beard, with friends, next to the Ben Fiddich master himself. Photographer: Brad Japhe The best bar on the planet is in Tokyo: [Ben Fiddich](, disguised within the ninth floor of a Shinjuku commercial low-rise. Step inside and you’re whisked away to another time and place; an ethereal state of being meticulously engineered by owner/head bartender [Hiroyasu Kayama](. There is no menu here, just the magic of the maestro. So pull up a seat at the bar and watch him work. Just don’t be surprised if you drop $100 on three to four cocktails. Yugo-san of Barca is also a legend in her own right. Photographer: Brad Japhe In the very same neighborhood, however, [Golden Gai]( is a jumbled tapestry of tumbledown watering holes through which you could crawl all night long and not spend half that. Just make sure to avoid the ones that charge covers, and make sure to hit up [Barca](, where Yugo-San has compiled the most impressive vintage Madeira collection I’ve seen outside of Portugal. And remember: every bar is a karaoke bar if you sing loud enough. UP IN NISEKO, hands down the fanciest stay in town is the [Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve](, which also opened during the pandemic at the base of the slopes. Highlights include pristine views of Mount Yōtei, outdoor and indoor onsens, and an omakase sushi experience in the lobby. The Ritz-Carlton’s in-room hot tub is luxury enough—but check out that view of Mount Yōtei. Photographer: Brad Japhe A 15-minute drive away is Hirafu, the epicenter of nightlife around these parts. Head there before 6 p.m. to get a prime spot at [Bar Gyu]( just as it opens. The cozy drinking den is entered through an unmarked refrigerator door. It’s a total vibe, as the kids say. For the most expansive whisky collection in town head to [Toshiro’s Bar]( in the lobby of the Niseko Grand Hirafu. It’s run by Yoko Toshiro and her husband Akinori. They are legends of local hospitality. Make sure to save room for ramen from [Tozanken](, where your savory soup can be studded with corn and fried chicken. Beyond the fridge at Bar Gyu. Photographer: Brad Japhe You had some questions! Several of you wrote in through [the Pursuits Instagram]( and [my personal account]( to ask questions about whiskey. Here are some answers. Is there any whiskey expression you would never serve on the rocks? As a legendary distiller once famously quipped: “The best way to enjoy whiskey is any damn way you please.” That being said, @VintageWeave, if a whiskey is deep and dark with a lengthy, complex finish, I would always avoid bringing down its temperature. When you make a whiskey colder, you truncate its finish. If that’s what you’re after, by all means, go for it. Just be aware of what you’re doing when you do it. What to pour and what to store when starting a whiskey collection. Source: Vendors How do I start building a liquor collection? A great question, @Arjunsood777, which some authors have written entire books to adequately answer. I myself, wrote on article on [the whiskey portion]( (see above). In brief, secure at least one to two bottles of all the primary categories of spirit: whiskey (bourbon, rye, single malt scotch and blended scotch—yes, all four major varities), agave spirit (tequila and mezcal), gin, vodka, rum and brandy. Then have some modifiers, including port, sherry, vermouth, amari. If it’s something under 20% alcohol (40-proof) make sure to refrigerate it after opening. As for the rest of it… Get a nice, copper-clad bar cart upon which to showcase it all. Or splurge on this stunner, designed by David Rockwell. Photographer: Benjamin Bouchet for Bloomberg Pursuits What can you guys recommend that’s actually affordable for real people? Hey @DericDintzer, I’m assuming you’re talking about Japanese whisky here. If so, I’m a fan of [Ichiro’s Malt & Grain]( from Chichibu Distillery. It’s a complex dram with hints of butterscotch and sandalwood to ponder. You can grab it off shelves for south of $100. [Mars Iwai Tradition]( is another fine pour, which you can sometimes snag for around $50 a bottle. If you spot the special edition that was finished in Aki Wine Casks, don’t hesitate to jump all over it. New for subscribers: Free article gifting. Bloomberg.com subscribers can now gift up to five free articles a month to anyone you want. Just look for the "Gift this article" button on stories. (Not a subscriber? Unlock limited access and [sign up here](.) Follow Us Like getting this newsletter? [Subscribe to Bloomberg.com]( for unlimited access to trusted, data-driven journalism and subscriber-only insights. You received this message because you are subscribed to Bloomberg's Bloomberg Pursuits newsletter. If a friend forwarded you this message, [sign up here]( to get it in your inbox. [Unsubscribe]( [Bloomberg.com]( [Contact Us]( Bloomberg L.P. 731 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10022 [Ads Powered By Liveintent]( [Ad Choices](