The tyranny of 'good taste'

Plus: caviar, jewels, and dragons. [View in browser]( [Bloomberg]( Hi, I’m [Kristen Shirley](, a frequent fashion and jewelry contributor to Bloomberg Pursuits and the founder of [La Patiala](, the luxury encyclopedia. And I’ve been spending most of the last month on Massachusetts’s Cape Cod, eating oysters and lobster rolls, writing stories poolside, and watching too many TikToks. [One video]( caught my attention, and I haven’t been able to stop thinking about it. The TikTok rant by @eggmcmuffinofficial (LOL) has been viewed nearly 3 million times and details how the world is losing color as more places and products focus on neutral hues and minimalist designs. The result? Everything looks the same, and we’re losing individuality in the quest for “good taste.” And yet “good taste” is one reason why handbags are the luxury asset most likely to hold its value. Here’s how to invest. Photographer: Joanna McClure for Bloomberg Businessweek I see this throughout the luxury industry as brands compete to offer a complete lifestyle experience. If Brand A has a hot design, Brand B will create something similar so their clients will stay in-house. This homogenization of luxury is frightening. Not only does it create an army of people who dress the same, but independent brands and unique designs are overlooked or outright dismissed as people clamor to buy the same watch, the same sneaker, and the same bracelet as their friends. If you’ve been watching the US Open, here’s the scoop on Serena Williams’s new bag. Photographer: Frey/TPN/Getty Images North America As we see in the watch industry, this can lead to product shortages and lengthy waitlists, creating a vicious cycle. If there’s a waitlist, it has to be good, or so the thought goes. (It’s the same false logic as expensive equaling good, but that’s another newsletter.) So, people follow the leader, automatically sign up, and make the waitlist even longer. I wonder how many people know why they’re waiting years to buy a Rolex Daytona. One upside of the crypto collapse: Rolex Daytonas are flooding the market. Photographer: Patrick T. Fallon/Bloomberg This is one of many reasons I am passionate about supporting independent designers like David Webb, whose upcoming [exhibition of animal jewelry]( I covered in Pursuits’s Fall Fashion Special in the recent issue of Bloomberg Businessweek. Webb is known for his bold, well-sized pieces with brilliant colors and unique designs. Wherever I see his jewelry, I instantly know what it is and how much craftsmanship went into its creation, while people outside of the jewelry world have no idea that a zebra bracelet costs $78,500. To me, that’s the perfect combination of luxury, design, and personal style. David Webb’s lounging leopard brooch. Photographer: Noah Kalina/David Webb Of course, there are minimalist pieces that are undeniably chic, like [Tiffany & Co.’s new Lock bracelets](, which I also wrote about in the issue. While these bangles are beautiful, well-made, and nod to the house’s rich archives, there is nothing about them that screams Tiffany to me. It’s an elegant piece for people who want to stack gold and diamond bracelets. Three versions of Tiffany’s new Lock bracelet. Photographer: Janelle Jones for Bloomberg Businessweek There’s nothing wrong with that, but this new aesthetic could be seen as a business response and direct challenge to some of its arch-rivals, like Cartier’s Love bracelet. I’m more drawn to iconic Tiffany designs, like my treasured Elsa Peretti bone cuff. There’s, quite simply, nothing else like it. Definitely a design choice: think you could pull off these $1,195 Balmain Unicorn sneakers? Photographer: Takamasa Ota for Bloomberg Businessweek The Full Fall Fashion Special [How to Invest in Handbags, the Luxury Asset Most Likely to Hold Value]( Forget Berkshire Hathaway. These days, some are turning to Hermès Birkins. [The Era of Monster-Truck Sneakers Treats Soles as Engineering Marvel]( Tread anything but lightly when you’re wearing these sneakers. [Historic NYC Jeweler Woos Younger Audiences With Bold Animal Motifs]( David Webb’s playful designs get a fresh look at a new exhibition in New York. [One Employee Is the Secret Behind Zenith Watch’s Recent Sales Boom]( Archivist Laurence Bodenmann looks to the brand’s storied past to find new ways to evolve toward the future—and customers love her work. [How Does Tiffany’s New Lock Bracelet Stack Up Against Cartier, Van Cleef?]( In the first major debut since the American jewelry brand was acquired by LVMH, designers hope to create a lasting icon like the bean or Tiffany T bangle. The Months Ahead While life on the Cape is idyllic, there’s not a lot going on, so I’m excited to get back to New York after my relaxing trip. Here is what I’m most looking forward to this fall. - While Lower Manhattan’s Dimes Square might be all the rage these days, I can’t wait to [find a way into the new Aman New York](. - If a book has a wizard in it or was written for a 12-year-old boy, you can bet I’ve read it. Which means I’ll be watching [the blood, sex, and fire]( of HBO’s House of the Dragon and [the epic worldbuilding]( of Amazon’s The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power. (I already binged the first two episodes last night!) - Dubai Watch Week, an extravagant consumer-oriented show, will be shining a light on the [oft-overlooked American watch industry]( Sept 24–25. - It’s time to upgrade my iPhone 11, so I’m thrilled by the whispers of a [new iPhone model coming next week](. - Like an intricate jewel box come to life, [The Seven]( is opening soon in the West Village. Much of the incredible jewelry on sale will be custom-created for the boutique. - [Europe in shoulder season?]( Don’t mind if I do. The six places European travel experts recommend visiting this fall. Source: Passalacqua My Luxury Standards People always ask what my favorite luxury goods are, so here are the products that have stood the test of time. - [Krug]([Grande Cuvée]( is my absolute favorite bubbly—especially half bottles on a weekday evening. It’s one of the richest Champagnes yet is still crisp and bright. - Caviar is my favorite food, so I was delighted to discover Uruguay’s Black River brand, which raises its sturgeon in an aquafarm using water redirected from the Rio Negro, not in tanks. It’s the closest you can get to wild caviar—which is illegal in the US. The [Royale Oscietra]( is divine at $144 for 30 grams. - [Island Creek Oysters]( from Duxbury, Mass., have been winning me over with their bracing brininess and complexity for over a decade. They are the same oysters served at three-Michelin-starred restaurants around the country, including Per Se. Whenever people ask for cosmetics recommendations, I send them to La Prairie. Photographer: Naila Ruechel for Bloomberg Businessweek - I’m a skin-care addict and a [La Prairie devotee]( because of its luxurious caviar-infused products with advanced anti-aging technology. Its next serum, [Skin Caviar Harmonie Extrait](, promises a sculpted, more luminous visage. - I just bought a [Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duetto](, a watch I’ve coveted for years. It’s been a horological icon for nearly a century thanks to its classic Art Deco design and clean aesthetics (despite having two faces), and yet isn’t as ubiquitous as a Rolex. So, you had some questions? Here’s some answers! Whatever the topic, keep them coming for next week via our [Bloomberg Pursuits Instagram]( and [e-mail](mailto:daydreams@bloomberg.net?I%20have%20a%20question). Suggested caviar caveats for first-timers? While caviar might seem fancy and intimidating, it’s actually a really easy food to enjoy. There are a few main rules to follow. Use a spoon made from a neutral material like mother-of-pearl or wood. If you only have a metal spoon, that’s OK for a quick scoop. But if you leave it sitting in the tin, your caviar will develop a metallic taste. Many restaurants will serve caviar with red onion. I recommend you skip it, or your expensive caviar will taste like, well, red onion! If you opt for a blini, just add a dollop of crème fraîche and top with caviar. Or, do a [caviar bump]( by licking it off the back of your hand. Once you open a tin, eat it within a few days or it will go bad. More caviar queries? You can read my complete [caviar guideÂ](for everything you need to know. This Mish necklace is a Tahitian baroque pearl dream. Photographer: Sarah Anne Ward for Bloomberg Businessweek What’s your favorite kind of pearl? I think pearls are one of the most underrated types of jewelry—they come in all shapes, sizes, and colors, and can be absolutely breathtaking—so kudos to you for asking this question! We even did a [pearl feature]( in the magazine last summer. My favorites are large baroque pearls. Their organic shape adds an unexpected edge to what’s considered “classic” jewelry. Bonus: they can be less expensive than perfectly round specimens, although top quality ones do still command high prices, like that $68,600 necklace above. Precious rarities such as Padparadscha sapphire, tanzanite, alexandrite, and conch pearls are lately setting hearts on fire. Photographer: Joanna McClure for Bloomberg Businessweek What’s the best alternative investment item right now? You can never go wrong with [top-quality gemstones](: colorless diamonds, Burmese rubies, Kashmir sapphires, or Colombian emeralds (untreated, of course). In 2012 a 6.7-carat Kashmir sapphire auctioned for $206,500; last year a similarly sized one was bought for $550,000. A Cartier Tutti Frutti necklace with emerald, ruby, sapphire, onyx, and diamond is a strong investment. Photographer: Joanna McClure for Bloomberg Businessweek. At a lower price point, Birkin bags have historically been a great investment—if you can get your hands on one. Hermès carefully guards who has the privilege of purchasing at retail, which means that despite unwavering popularity, their cultural cachet keeps them from becoming “basic,” especially when made from exotic materials. If you want to stand out from the well-heeled crowd and don’t care about resale value, look to The Row for the perfect minimalist bags or to Bottega Veneta for bold hues. Mark Ellwood just wrote a fantastic article on [how to invest in handbags](. Check it out for expert insights. Why won’t they sell me a Patek Philippe Nautilus? Are you a retailer’s top client? No? Well there’s your answer. Patek Philippe does not mass produce its watches. Each retailer is lucky to get a few Nautilus watches a year, and they’re typically reserved for its best clients—definitely clients they know won’t immediately flip it to make a profit. (The same goes for many big-ticket luxury items like [high jewelry]( and [hypercars](.) Your best bet is to develop a relationship with your retailer, buy other watches from them, and if you need to up your spend, many retailers also carry jewelry. A big pair of diamond stud earrings can help vault you to the front of the list. In Laurent Ferrier’s world, a $185,000 watch can still be understated. Photo illustration: 731; Watch: Laurent Ferrier; Hat: Getty Images But until then, can I recommend the [Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto](? This elegant watch comes from a top Swiss independent watchmaker, is impeccably finished, has a similar aesthetic to the Nautilus, and a cool story to boot. It’s inspired by the watchmaker’s own experience racing in Le Mans, a punishing 24-hour car race in France immortalized by Steve McQueen. You can connect with Kristen Shirley on [Instagram]( or via [e-mail](mailto:kristen@kristenshirleycreative.com). Follow Us Like getting this newsletter? [Subscribe to Bloomberg.com]( for unlimited access to trusted, data-driven journalism and subscriber-only insights. You received this message because you are subscribed to Bloomberg's Pursuits newsletter. If a friend forwarded you this message, [sign up here]( to get it in your inbox. [Unsubscribe]( [Bloomberg.com]( [Contact Us]( Bloomberg L.P. 731 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10022 [Ads Powered By Liveintent]( [Ad Choices](