Itâs a brave chef that decides to upgrade a classic pasta. Thatâs where Yotam Ottolenghi comes in. The revered restaurateur and food writer
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Itâs a brave chef that decides to upgrade a classic pasta. Thatâs where [Yotam Ottolenghi comes in](. The revered restaurateur and food writer has a singular way of picking up a treasured dish and seeing an opportunity to insert an unlikely flavor or two without disturbing the foodâs integrity. Ottolenghiâs macaroni and cheese dish benefits from bright zaâatar pesto and crispy onions. Photographer: Elena Heatherwick, of courtesy Clarkson Potter In his most recent cookbook, Ottolenghi Flavor, the Israeli-born cook and his test-kitchen assistant Ixta Belfrage [redefined cacio e pepe]( by adding a hefty sprinkling of zaâatar. The tangy mix of dried herbs and spices, invariably including thyme, oregano, sumac and sesame seeds (recipes vary around the Middle East) is one of the chefâs signature flavorings. The cheesy, buttery pasta instantly became livelier. âIt was a scary point, because itâs a recipe that already works,â said Ottolenghi at the time. âHow do you change a perfect dish?â The question arises again in his new book, [Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Shelf Love. Recipes to Unlock the Secrets of Your Pantry, Fridge and Freezer]( by Noor Murad and Ottolenghi (Clarkson Potter; $32). In it, the pair take on another classic (many would say perfect) pasta: mac and cheese. The genius of [his recipe]( starts in Step 1, when the pasta cooks in milkâwhich becomes the sauce. That trick obviates the need to drain the fusilli and add flour, which can render the dish bland. The pastaâs starch thickens the milk, and the addition of feta and cheddar enrich it even further. In the recipe, the pasta cooks in the milk, which is brilliant. Photographer: Kate Krader/Bloomberg But what really enhances the dish is a cilantro lemon pesto spiked withâyou guessed itâzaâatar. The spice mix does a heroic job of balancing the richness of the pasta.  Murad, who is half-English and half-Middle Eastern, says there's always room for classic mac and cheese. But the Middle Eastern flair delivered by the zaâatar, feta, cumin, and fried onions that garnish the dish are, for her, âwhat mac and cheese was missing all along.â Middle Eastern mac and cheese; feel free to add further zaâatar pesto. Photographer: Kate Krader/Bloomberg [RECIPE:Â]([M.E. (Middle Eastern) Mac and Cheese with Zaâatar Pesto](
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