A dispatch from the center of the wine world

Elin here, reporting what’s new in old Bordeaux and answering your most pressing wine questions [View in browser]( [Bloomberg]( Hi, readers and wine lovers. It’s [Elin McCoy](, Bloomberg’s wine critic, with info on the latest in Bordeaux, France, where I’ve spent two weeks [tasting the newest vintage](, 2023, while it’s still in barrel. Sipping and spitting more than 450 wines and hearing winemakers’ takes on the year’s problematic weather is only part of the annual event known as en primeur. Yes, my frazzled weeks included long days of appointments at top châteaux and Union des Grands Crus press tastings at the [Cité du Vin](, as well as lavish dinners that go on after midnight—and hey, I’m not complaining. Eight vintages are lined up in the tasting room at Château Corbin in Saint-Emilion. There’s a lot of this activity, many, many times daily, during Bordeaux En Primeur week. Photographer: Elin McCoy/Bloomberg This year, many visits brought the noisy sounds of drills and hammers as ever more châteaux invest in glamorous cellars to improve their precision winemaking, as well as [enhance their oenotourism offerings](. The push to welcome wine lovers started before the Covid-19 pandemic and adds options for tourists every year. At [Château Cantemerle](, I got lost among barriers and bulldozers; workmen were painting guest rooms scheduled to open in three days. (They did.) Every tasting room has its own vibe. Lines of French poetry adorn walls at [Château Montrose](. At [Château Leoville Poyferré](, unique spittoons at the high tasting table pull out like drawers, and walls display tasters’ scribbled messages. And at [Château Cos d’Estournel](, the shrubs outside are sculpted into the shape of elephants, the château’s symbol.  Sculpted topiary elephants stand outside the tasting room at Château Cos d’Estournel in Saint-Estephe. Photographer: Elin McCoy/Bloomberg Still, as winemakers were pouring 2023 wines, they expressed worries about the 2024 growing season. In Saint-Emilion and Pomerol, several nights of cold temperatures threatened a repeat of the [devastating spring frosts in 2017]( and [2021](.  This year, phone alerts were set to wake them if the vineyard temperatures plunge to near or below freezing. Bougies (paraffin frost candles) dotted vineyards, waiting to be lighted at 4 a.m. or 5 a.m., if necessary. (Bordeaux escaped this time, but concern kept many winemakers up all night.) Like last year, [I had my eye out for interesting cars](. I spotted a pair of antique Citroen C6 collectibles—a 1930 and a ’31—displayed outside the entrance to [Château Pavie]( in Saint-Emilion. Both belong to château owner and car collector Gerard Perse. Perse’s 1931 Citroen C6 stands outside the entrance to Château Pavie. Photographer: Elin McCoy/Bloomberg During en primeur, food looms large. An unexpected food theme at several lunches was outdoor barbecue, even on chilly days, [using vine trimmings]( called sarments. On the Left Bank, is top lunch spot [La Table de Nathalie](, a light-filled wine bar at [Château Marquis d’Alesme]( in the center of Margaux, where I happily downed more than my fair share of the season’s earliest [strawberries](. Strawberries and cheese beckon at La Table de Nathalie at Château Marquis d’Alesme, next to its tasting room. Photographer: Elin McCoy/Bloomberg Dinners are time for serious older vintages. At one intimate negociant dinner, we played a guessing game to name the vintage and label for the five wines served. I nailed the one from Napa, California, but missed identifying the spicy, sensual, fabulous 1982 Cheval Blanc, one of the best wines I drank on my trip. On the other hand, the annual Académie du Vin dinner at Palais Rohan, Bordeaux’s Hôtel de Ville, featured 73 wines from vintages that end in the numeral 4—2014, 2004, 1994, 1984 …  Of the three bottles of 1914 Château Siran, one was superb and one was good but not great. One was clearly over the hill, reminding me how often [very old wines hit or miss](. Quite the table was set for the Fête du Bontemps dinner. Photographer: Elin McCoy/Bloomberg My favorite dish? At the week’s final dinner, the Fête du Bontemps at [Château Guiraud]( in Sauternes, we savored roast pigeon and truffled potato tart cooked by chef Mathieu Viannay of the two-Michelin-starred [La Mère Brazier]( in Lyon with Domaine de Chevalier 2014, followed by the lush, rich 2009 Château Mouton Rothschild. The violinist and the cellist even changed their flamboyant dresses between courses. Rain streamed down upon the clear roof of the massive tent. The ceiling below was hung with strands of twinkly lights. This meant [no fireworks](. There’s always next year. Connect with Elin on her [website]( or via [Instagram]( My insider’s guide to what’s new in Bordeaux Dinners and receptions are prime times to pick up gossip about who is doing what and where. If you’re planning a spring or summer visit, here are three trends to explore. Trees in the vineyard are the future. Agroforestry is not completely new in Bordeaux, but [Château Larrivet Haut-Brion]( in Pessac-Léognan is taking it to a new level. In replanting 12 hectares of vineyards, it’s placing 300 Paulownia elongata trees between vine rows. Among the fastest-growing trees in the world, they resist drought, provide localized shade for vines as the climate warms, and absorb 10 times more carbon dioxide on average. (Typically, the wood is used for surfboards.) The project doesn’t yet look like the image below, but the château will start opening the site to visits on May 17. A 3D rendering of Château Larrivet Haut-Brion’s “vineyard of the future.” Source: Agence Big for Larrivet Haut-Brion More brand-new cellars to visit. The nod for the latest eco-friendly cellar this year goes to [Château Cantenac Brown]( in Margaux, whose walls are constructed from rammed earth. It debuted during en primeur to the sound of bagpipes in a nod to a 19th century Scottish owner. The one with the most fabulous views is Saint-Emilion’s [Château Belair-Monange](. Designed by Herzog & de Meuron, the architects behind [Dominus in Napa]( (the Moueix family owns both), it has walls of artistically textured concrete and a glass-walled tasting room with panoramic vistas of the appellation’s vines. Château Belair-Monange is stunning within and without. Photographer: Herzog & de Meuron Nature strolls and eco-pastoralism gain momentum. At [Château Giscours]( in Margaux, walking paths now pass through a forest with ponds, a working farm and 20 species of trees. You’ll spot dozens of bird species including geese and ducks, along with flocks of sheep—and you can order a picnic to enjoy on the grounds. At [Château Cantemerle](, a new botanical project includes collecting tree and plant seeds in the huge park and meadows for cultivation in Bordeaux’s first urban nursery. The many animals at Château Giscours include this herd of goats on the front lawn. Source: Château Giscours Elsewhere in the wine world Although Bordeaux is on my mind, here are some other stories I’m paying attention to right now: - [Are boom times over]( for California wine? - The battle over regulations in Napa is inspiring [lawsuits from desperate small wineries]( - A great introduction to [Japanese wine]( - An essential look at how the [anti-alcohol lobby and neo prohibitionists]( are shaping alcohol policy - [Restaurant diners learn to talk again]( instead of looking at their phones What I’m eating, drinking, thinking, reading New Bordeaux maps for collectors. Though I gratefully rely on GPS, I have a passion for beautiful maps—the only way I think you can really visualize a wine region. Last week my colleague Jane Anson, author of [Inside Bordeaux]( and an excellent eponymous website, launched [two brilliant wine maps]( to help you understand the terroir that lies beneath the main Bordeaux châteaus. The limited edition of 100 “Bordeaux’s Medoc Terroir” and “Bordeaux’s Right Bank Terroir” cost €90 ($97) each, €160 for both. Bordeaux’s Right Bank terroir map. Source: Jane Anson - Inside Bordeaux The Chinese Wine Renaissance: A Wine Lover’s Companion. Over dinner in Bordeaux, author Janet Wang described how she left behind commodities and energy trading in London to become an expert on Chinese wine—and to [write this book](. Highly entertaining, it’s not just about Chinese wine, but tells you how wine fits into China’s history, culture and life. Do you know how the concept of kung fu relates to wine? Or which bottles to pour with mooncakes? Now I do. [$39 on Amazon.com]( Doing good: the Gerard Basset Foundation. Earlier this week, I was sipping great red Burgundy at Bonhams auction house in New York at the first US event for this important nonprofit wine foundation. Established in 2021 to honor the late master of wine and master sommelier Gerard Basset, one of the world’s most generous wine professionals, it funds student scholarships and research initiatives that foster global diversity in wine and hospitality. [Get involved!]( When in Venice ... Source: Rdb.prconsulting Colorful luxury glassware. At the Venice residence of Giberto and Bianca Arrivabene last fall, I had a firsthand look at Giberto’s artistic, stylish handblown Murano glassware designs. Last month, he opened a shop—[Giberto Venezia](—in a tiny space on Venice’s Rialto bridge. While I love everything he designs, my favorites right now are this [fizzy blue jug and glasses]( to match, with orange rims. Set of 6 wine glasses, €1,080; jug, €695 Fizzy con bicchieri. Source: Rdb.prconsulting So, you had some questions … We call for queries weekly on [our Instagram account]( and [via e-mail](mailto:askpursuits@bloomberg.net?subject=I%20have%20a%20question). Here’s what you were dying to know about this time around. Where’s a good place for a serious, first-time wine shopper to buy? Wherever you live, find a wine shop with knowledgeable staff who love to talk. Then zero in on one or two sales people you’re comfortable with to help you figure out what you like and what to buy. In New York City, if you want to get into Bordeaux, the new and beautiful Upper East Side shop [Millesima USA](, an outpost of a Bordeaux négociant, offers a wide range of futures and older vintages. And I’ve long been a huge fan of [Chambers Street Wines]( downtown, noted for terroir-driven wines from small artisanal producers and for its passionate, wine-geek staff. While both have an online presence, for the best personal help and advice, in-store visits from time to time are a must. If you really get into it, be sure to check out my [guide to starting a wine collection]( from a couple of years back. Interested in natural wine? The Waves is an excellent new online shop. Source: The Waves What types of wines do you always have in your fridge? I keep a couple of bottles of light, fresh, tasty, inexpensive whites that I can open and sip while cooking. Right now, I’m reveling in such Italian examples as those from Lugana (made from the turbiana grape), pecorinos from Abruzzo, vermentinos from Sardinia and grillos from Sicily. I also try to keep a [delicious, inexpensive sparkler](on hand that I can pull out if a friend stops by.  What’s the best all-around wine opener? For old, crumbly corks, nothing beats [the Durand](. Go basic with a [professional waiter’s corkscrew]( otherwise. There are many brands with slightly different designs; the one I like best is the stainless steel Pulltap’s Pulltex Premium version ([$30](), which has a curved handle, a non-stick screw or auger, and a double-hinged lever that allows you to pull corks out easily without breaking them. Don’t cut yourself on its very sharp foil cutter; instead buy a separate, handheld one from Le Creuset ([$15](). As for getting wine to the proper temp, the QelviQ (pronounced kel-vick) electric chiller is programmable—and fast. Photographer: Janelle Jones for Bloomberg Businessweek How do you deal with stained teeth when drinking red wine? This is a serious issue during en primeur! Since almost all the wines I’m tasting are red, by midday I look like a purple-toothed vampire when I smile. Which is why I always carry a small travel toothbrush and Sensodyne Pronamel toothpaste with me so I can brush before sitting down to lunch. To cut down on staining—and preserve my teeth—I often drink still (not sparkling) water. Waiting 30 minutes after the last tasting before I brush is essential so as not to erode tooth enamel. A wine critic’s secret weapon. Source: Amazon New for subscribers: Free article gifting. Bloomberg.com subscribers can now gift up to five free articles a month to anyone you want. Just look for the "Gift this article" button on stories. (Not a subscriber? Unlock limited access and [sign up here](.) Follow Us Like getting this newsletter? [Subscribe to Bloomberg.com]( for unlimited access to trusted, data-driven journalism and subscriber-only insights. Want to sponsor this newsletter? [Get in touch here](. You received this message because you are subscribed to Bloomberg's Bloomberg Pursuits newsletter. 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