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Notes from the Test Kitchen
August 24, 2018
Dessert Sauces
We believe that sauces are the secret weapon for taking most any dish to the next level. This week weâre focusing on the wonderful world of dessert sauces, providing three recipes with different sweet bases. [Berry Gratin with Lemon Sabayon]( is made with an egg-based sauce with bright lemon flavor that complements the sweet-tart berries. Our [Dark Chocolate Fudge Sauce]( uses cocoa powder, unsweetened chocolate, and butter to create the richest, smoothest chocolate sauce. And our [Oatmeal Butterscotch Bars]( employ a butterscotch glaze that combines just four ingredients. For even more sauces of the sweet and savory variety, check out our comprehensive cookbook [Just Add Sauce](.
[Berry Gratin with Lemon Sabayon](
[Sabayon is a thick, slightly frothy, creamy dessert sauce]( thatâs popular in France and Italy (where it is known as zabaglione). With its fresh, slightly warmed berries and delicate caramelized-sugar crust, this dessert is a simple summertime pleasure. Three egg yolks and a combination of water and lemon juice produce a light consistency and a pleasantly strong lemon flavor in the sauce. A moderate amount of sugar sweetens the sabayon without overwhelming it, and a pinch of salt rounds out the flavors. To assemble the dessert, we simply spoon the sabayon over the warmed fruit and add a sprinkling of sugar, which we quickly caramelize with a kitchen torch.
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[Dark Chocolate Fudge Sauce](
The recipe works by developing a simple yet stable emulsion from a short list of ingredients to deliver [a sauce with deep chocolate flavor]( moderate sweetness, and a luxurious consistency. We use both cocoa powder and unsweetened chocolate to achieve complex flavor and richness. Choosing milk rather than cream allows the deep chocolate flavor to shine, and finishing with the incorporation of cold butter creates a luxuriously thick consistency.
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[Oatmeal Butterscotch Bars](
Most recipes for this bake-sale favorite combine oatmeal cookie dough with a bag of butterscotch chips. This recipe is a chewier, less crumbly version that isnât so sweet. We top the bars with [a simple butterscotch sauce]( made out of dark brown sugar, water, salt, and butterscotch chips.
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Recommended Equipment for These Recipes
[OXO Good Grips 11-inch Balloon Whisk](
Speed/Efficiency: ★★★ Comfort/Ease of Use: ★★★
Whisks incorporate necessary air into sabayon to make it lighter. With an ergonomic Santoprene rubber handle and a balanced, lightweight feel, this whisk from OXO is like an extension of your hand. It whips cream and egg whites quickly, thanks to 10 wires that are thin enough to move through the liquid quickly but thick enough to push through heavy mixtures and blend pan sauces to smoothness. [Learn More →](
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[Zwilling J.A. Henckels Aurora 3.5 qt Stainless Steel Saucier](
Cleanup: ★★½ Ease of Use: ★★½ Performance: ★★★
Sauciers bring sauce making to the next level; their depth and capacity allow you to create and reduce sauces with ease. This affordable model from Zwilling cooks food beautifully, and its wide, easy-to-grip handle extends at a comfortable angle from the pan. [Learn More →](
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[Pyrex Smart Essentials Mixing Bowl Set with Colored Lids](
Durability: ★★★ Ease of Use: ★★★ Performance: ★★★
These glass mixing bowls are useful when mixing batter for bars and melting anything in the microwave. Even though these bowls are heavier, they are never cumbersome to handle, thanks to their shallow, gently curved walls and easy-to-grip rims. Notably, they did not break when we dropped them. [Learn More →](
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